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Old 06-05-2010, 07:53 PM
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More Rusted Metal.... help

What would you do to replace the rust in this roof drip edge channel ?

65 B Body.

I am a little nervous about where I can get to good metal and save the rail itself as it's solid. The rust is on the roof side as shown and some deep pits in the channel but none on the inside or outside wall of the rail.

I realize it has to be replaced but the rail metal appears to be much thicker than the panel steel ? It may be easier to just cut out the rail and panel section ? I am not the most skilled metal guy so......

Any ideas ?

thanks
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:09 PM
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Does anyone know if the the roof seam is welded in the channel ?
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:53 AM
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theres about three ways to do this.....
1) sand blast /wirewheel to clean the rust and pits ,ospho,epoxy.fill holes with chopped fiberglass filler followed by bondo. By FAR the easiest way if your unsure about your welding and fabricating skills plus,its fastest...and cheapest...
2) patch with new metal best you can a little better if done right and will last longer.
3)seperate roor skin, remove drip rail and replace both with new panels,but you may have to make the drip rails or have them made.
to remove drip rails on most cars the roof skin comes off first...BY FAR the BEST way but expensive and time consuming. Not for the faint of heart.
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:46 PM
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Yes it is a very intimidating repair... I assume the roof skin comes down and is spot welded in the rail channel ? I blasted the channel and i do not see a spot weld but having said that, the channel is very rough not smooth metal..... but only in the area that has the holes .... like water just sat there for some reason?

I think it is dark pitting ? As I say not sure what it is actualy, sad thing is that most of the channel and rail are perfect..... just about 10 inches of trouble ? That's what she said

Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:21 AM
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I have a similar problem with my '56 Dodge wagon. Rust pitting/ rust through in the roof with both the drip rail and the body panel in good shape. In my case it was caused by the jute insulation becoming soaked with water, which created the rusting from the inside out.

I have decent welding skills but I am concerned about welding on this large 'soft' roof panel. The other night a good friend of mine who has done paint and body for over 40 years gave me a really good suggestion on how to deal with this.

1. Clean the rusted metal on the inside - remove all rust.
2. Cut a strip of sheet metal somewhat larger than the rusted area.
3. Use panel adheasive to attach the strip of sheet metal to the roof.
4. When the adheasive has set, clean the outside and fill the backed up holes with body filler.
5. Primer both sides with epoxy to prevent further problems.

I hope to give it a shot later this week when I can get back in my shop.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:49 PM
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Ahhh,I forgot about the weld glue SEM#39747...Exellent idea... I've used a ton of it on my old 48 where the trim holes rotted out about the size of e quarter...I cleaned it uo with a wire wheel (on the inside) and glued a strip of metal to the inside and screwed it all in place with drill screws until it was dry (looked like a porkypine) ...After it dried I removed the screws and filled the screw holes with more glue ,making a (glue rivit)it worked fantastic and has held up for five years with no sign of failure...
I'll post a few pics for ya tomorrow ...That WOULD be your best bet...
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:06 PM
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Hi Mike!
Thanks for the confirmation!
BTW: how well does epoxy primer and/or kitty hair (I think you call it tiger hair) adhere to the glue? Any special treatment on the outside before finishing?
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Old 06-09-2010, 06:31 PM
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As most of the holes are pretty small, would it be a good idea to drill out the holes a little bigger than actual to try to get into decent metal then fill with fiberglass ?
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:34 PM
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Heres some rusty crap I glued a while back...some of the ruff stuff I was telling you about.
I always ,always always ....use osphowhen I working with rust...Basicly my procedure is: Ospho . sand 180 , epoxy prime and putty or bondo.
In your case ,after primingI would grind the inside ,wire wheel,sand with 80 or grind again,clean it two or three times with W&G remover,glue new metal to the inside and screw it all together......
Heres a little trick o a dry run and screw the metal in place without glue so you have all your holes in place and you arnt messing around with wet glue and making a mess...unscrew it and your holes are already lined up,it goes quick and ez this way.Epoxy prime first then use the tiger hair or the chopped glass (even better)
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 06-09-2010 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 06-13-2010, 03:10 PM
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Another option I have been told is to clean up the metal and lead it.... that seemed like a solid idea for this type of repair ?
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Old 06-15-2010, 05:08 AM
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Thats another way but the metal has got to be super super clean for the lead to stick...I would go with the glue for those with little experiance though.
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Thats another way but the metal has got to be super super clean for the lead to stick...I would go with the glue for those with little experiance though.
Hey Mikey, Trying to send you a pm, You need to clear out your mail box so i can.


Cole
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Old 06-18-2010, 05:10 AM
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Sorry Cole,Just finished...try again...Mike
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Old 06-19-2010, 02:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conrad_AZ
I have a similar problem with my '56 Dodge wagon. Rust pitting/ rust through in the roof with both the drip rail and the body panel in good shape. In my case it was caused by the jute insulation becoming soaked with water, which created the rusting from the inside out.

I have decent welding skills but I am concerned about welding on this large 'soft' roof panel. The other night a good friend of mine who has done paint and body for over 40 years gave me a really good suggestion on how to deal with this.

1. Clean the rusted metal on the inside - remove all rust.
2. Cut a strip of sheet metal somewhat larger than the rusted area.
3. Use panel adheasive to attach the strip of sheet metal to the roof.
4. When the adheasive has set, clean the outside and fill the backed up holes with body filler.
5. Primer both sides with epoxy to prevent further problems.

I hope to give it a shot later this week when I can get back in my shop.
ARGH!!!! Sounds like the sort of nonsense you would expect from a flyby nighter looking to off load a rusty old wreck.
To prevent warping ( it's not the heat but the weld shrinking when it cools )Remember the golden rule..Take it slow and if you can weld faster than one foot per hour ,you are going too fast!.."
Make the patch FIRST before cutting the rust out . Get it PERFECT before cutting.
tack one end ,let it cool see how the metal is reacting . look closely at the tack and place your next tack on the EDGE of the BLUE mark. let it cool,check the metal and correct gently any change of shape. I set my self a day to do a door bottom as an example. Once the weld is finsihed and depending on what method you use,the shape should still be in the panel and quick sand with a flap disc is all that is needed. i sometime use a spot of body solder over the weld to smooth any low spots in the bead and pin holes which are to be expected. I hate polyseter body filler BTW,and i find metal finshing to be more therapeutic.. .
I am also a great believer in gas welding because Mig welds are often lumpy and always as hard as hell . This means a lot of grinding which creates heat which causes panal damage and more work. Tig was designed for sheet metal work but i dint feel the need to use it( in fact i never use my tig at all ).
In the project journal pages there is a guy who welded the nose on a Caddilac hood,anything is possible!!
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Old 06-20-2010, 06:19 AM
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Not necessarily Merc.
In some cases a glued joint is not only a good way to go but FARRR superior .....and water tight ....the flanged seam wont rust.
I felt the same way 10yrs ago when the rep came to my shop selling these panel weld glues...I told him :There's no way any glue is as good as a weld never mind BETTER...So he went out to the truck and got some and demonstrated it and the procedure,then gave me the rest of the tube...
I was shocked the next day when we tried to separate the two pieces of sheetmetal with an air chisel and couldn't...The metal tore before the glue failed...I then hooked up the metal and tried to pull it apart with the frame machine (same results) that glue is some wicked good stuff....and glue wont rust through like a weld either.
I agree about metal shaping being great therapy ....its the logical evolution of any bodyman that takes his work seriously...
These guys have classes all the time and going to one is the best thing I can suggest to any car buff that loves doing the work.....www.metalmeet.com
After over thirty yrs of doing body and paint This has rejuvenated me and made building cars (rusty or not) even more fun by its endless possibility's....There"s nothing wrong with using glue except it takes all the fun out of welding and fixing the damage it causes.....
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