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Old 03-17-2003, 06:53 AM
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Arrow More TECH On FORD Dist. Gear Failure

<a href="http://members.tripod.com/lyc_42/sgdist/sgdist.htm" target="_blank">-FORD Distributor Gear Failure-</a>

[quote]At this point I was very frustrated and called the cam tech line for help. They suggested that a high volume pump can overload a distributor gear and tear it up. So I removed the oil pan, cleaned out the pan and replaced the pump and pickup. A new auto parts store gear was put on the distributor and I then fired up the car and drove it around the block, almost. The gear lasted about 2 miles before it was all torn up as can be seen in Photo3 and Photo4.<hr></blockquote>

[quote]We also checked out the distributor gears themselves. It was hard to check dimensions on torn up units, but what we could check matched up. However, they were considerably different when it came to hardness. On the Rockwell B scale it was something like 70 for the auto parts store gear, 90 for the bronze gear, and 102 or so for the cast iron ford gear. No wonder the auto parts store gear tore up.<hr></blockquote>


[quote]Windsor distributor gear oiling mod.

There's an oil gallery that runs from the cam bearing to the lower distributor shaft. This hole intersects that gallery and squirts oil directly onto the distributor gear teeth. A large bit is used until it gets close to breaking through, then a .025" drill is used to make the final step.<hr></blockquote>




Above Info Courtesy of;

<a href="http://angelfire.com/ar/dw42/index.htm" target="_blank">-Dave Williams FORD Engine Site-</a>

<a href="http://www.cobralads.com/butcher63.html" target="_blank">-Failure of Small Block FORD Distributor Gears-</a>

[ March 17, 2003: Message edited by: KULTULZ ]</p>

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Old 03-17-2003, 07:59 AM
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What's your opinion that a heavy oil, will it even make it worse? I would like to use this in the knowledge base in the future for dist.gear failure and could this be true for any other car? Opinions from others would help.
Thanks for your post KULTULZ , I would have never thought of this.
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Old 03-17-2003, 08:38 AM
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Soft gears, typical problems caused by cheap remanufacturers is what I read in that story. Being out 30 points on the Rockwell B scale is certainly out of spec if you ask me. Amazingly the aluminum bronze was harder than the aftermarket cast iron one, how cheesy is that?!

Thanks for the link Duke, valuable information.
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Old 03-17-2003, 09:01 AM
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This is amazing! I have never worked on a Ford engine but all the distributor gears I have ever seen on all the Chrysler and GM engines I have worked on have been in near perfect shape - nice polish on workign surfaces, tight bushings - regardless of miles on engine. I have never even given a dist. gear a second thought - just throw the old one back in, even in performance engines. NEVER had any problems.
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Old 03-17-2003, 10:39 AM
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Well actually, this was a continuation of the discussion on CHEV gears and hi-volume oil pumps. I couldn't find it to attach the above information to. The discussion came across CHEV gears being destroyed because of cam walk, depth setting and a few other factors. It finally ended with the second URL I just presented regarding FORD problems but the first URL I came across this moring while Carousing With My Browser.

To add fuel to the fire...

[quote]What's your opinion that a heavy oil, will it even make it worse?<hr></blockquote>

Most say that a hi-volume or hi-pressure pump will destroy the driven gear but then turn around and use a 20W-50 for the street. What's the difference?
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Old 03-17-2003, 12:08 PM
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Still never seen it. I'm amazed.
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Old 03-17-2003, 12:31 PM
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The reason why we have never seen it was because we are reusing mostly perfectly good factory originals and most places (here anyways) use USA made parts. I would imagine if we traced the origins of these aftermarket gears to their source we would find some Taiwanese or worse China made cast iron with so many impurities, inclusions and garbage metallury...it does not surprise me that the factory versions were that much harder. I'll bet they didn't pack carborize and heat treat those gears to save a fews cents or maybe they did but machined the gears after heat treat and removed all the hard skin.

I have had many experiences in heavy industry where corners were cut buying cheesy offshore junk to satisfy a contract only to be burned by poor foundry, casting, heat treat, metallury...you name it. Just recently I had heard about cast iron brake drums for city buses made in "Germany" that were so hard they could not be machined and soon warped or cracked in use. Apparently the only thing made in "Germany" about them was that the moulds were made there and the iron was poured in Malaysia literally in a mud house town. The castings were cooled with water (improved production!) and they were hard as glass, they were ground finished (in Germany!) so you couldn't tell until you drove the bus hard enough to heat them up. They warped in use bad enough that it would lock the tires! The inclusions were so bad that some castings had inch long low spots supported by sand inclusions!

I learned my lesson, more than once.
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Old 03-17-2003, 01:55 PM
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Don't you just love when you read on a board that a guy went down to the hardware store to buy fasteners or went to PEP BOYS and saved a fortune on parts?

BTW- Did you hear about the PEP BOY store somewheres in AZ that fired it's store manager because he was called up to active duty?
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Old 03-18-2003, 04:50 AM
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<a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/cgibin/ubb/15/003592" target="_blank">http://www.hotrodders.com/cgibin/ubb/15/003592</a>

I had a simular problem! I found that I had excessive clearance between the gear and the dist. shaft. I installed shims as a "helix type" gear has a tendency to try and push itself out. This would cause a bouncing condition which could tear the gears. I hope that this is the end of my problems!. I installed the distributor without the gasket and the dist. still didn't bottom out.
Frustrating!!!
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