Originally Posted by Caballerokid
It was half way tuned by me which was ok but nothing professional and it was in the car on the dyno. So those numbers where to teh wheels. Also, I already have 1.6:1 roller rockers. The rpm air gap won't make a difference accept at high end. I am thinking of modifying the performer intake (cutting a notch out of the center between the two planes. I have seen dynos pulls confim about a 20tq and and 10-15 hp gain and adding a 1" carb spacer to get a little more top end. As far as the heads I'm thinking 180-200cc intake runners, 72cc heart chambers, 75cc exhaust ports and port matching to the intake. Haven't decided aluminum or cast yet. I'm hoping to squeeze another 100 hp from all of this and then possibly thinking another 100-150hp nitrous shot to make things a little more interesting
With aluminum heads you could probably use about a 70cc chamber, another option would to be opening up the chamber in a 64cc head some and/or taking some out of your piston dome. Aluminum heads generally mean you need about a point more compression than iron heads. I would go no larger than a 195cc port with that cam, the duration just isn't enough to support a larger cam.
And yes the RPM intake will pick up the most at the top- that's also where you're hp peak is so if you want higher peak numbers that's exactly where you would need to pick it up. It'll also better match a good set of heads and you can pick up a used RPM intake for $75 or less.
You should also tune your carb on the dyno, its the only place you can get an accurate measurement throughout the power band. and remember tuning for WOT is done through the PVCR's NOT the jets. jets are used for tuning at cruise- most people don't understand that. Getting a better tune would probably be worth a lot on your current combo and would be a necessity if you got all those other parts. It makes one hell of a difference.