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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdminter59 View Post
I would not spend anymore money on the engine except to tune. You have a 4 speed transmission, I would spend some money on a set of 3.42 or 3.55 ring and pinion gears. Take it to a drag strip during test and tune to get some time slips. Post the info back here. I sure some one will have some answers comparing the time slip info and the dyno info as for why your hp numbers seem low. How is you timing curve set up? How much engine vacuum do you have? Check all of this to make sure everything is right.
I have the MSD e-curve dizzy so its a little different as far as timing goes. I have my switches set as follows Switch #1 (1) and switch #2 (0). I have 18 initial timing with a 15 mechanical curve all in by 3K. I also have a 10 vacuum curve starting at 10" and all out by 4". So idle I have 28 total timing and 33 at WOT. This will help explain this better The vacuum produced by the engine is 10" at idle. Anyone have any better suggestions as to how I should have this timed. This is just my best guess as I have been driving it. But I do believe that I am still having detonation even with cold plugs and 91-93 octane fuel. I may need to start running a constant blend of 100 or 110 leaded. I was blending the 110 leaded before as it is cheaper.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caballerokid View Post
I have the MSD e-curve dizzy so its a little different as far as timing goes. I have my switches set as follows Switch #1 (1) and switch #2 (0). I have 18 initial timing with a 15 mechanical curve all in by 3K. I also have a 10 vacuum curve starting at 10" and all out by 4". So idle I have 28 total timing and 33 at WOT. This will help explain this better The vacuum produced by the engine is 10" at idle. Anyone have any better suggestions as to how I should have this timed. This is just my best guess as I have been driving it. But I do believe that I am still having detonation even with cold plugs and 91-93 octane fuel. I may need to start running a constant blend of 100 or 110 leaded. I was blending the 110 leaded before as it is cheaper.
you're probably down about 3-4 degrees from what you need for peak power, and if you add that your engine will detonate like crazy on 93 octane. Those domed pistons don't seem like such a good idea now do they...

If you went with flat tops and ran the full timing you needed you could likely run on 87 octane and be making MORE power than you are now. Compression isn't everything.
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:19 PM
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You think if I ran straight 110 leaded fuel I could run a bit more total? Do you think the initial/vacuum is a good setup or no? I can easily get 110 for $7/gal and 100 for $8/gal here where I'm at.
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:33 PM
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Also, I'm looking at putting a 142/144ci blower on this this with a new set of heads. Would these be a good head to run this type of blower with as well as trying to keep my compression down? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/br...make/chevrolet and cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:40 PM
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Not sure if anyone else mentioned this but the mustang dyno is also known as the heartbreaker cause they always read low on hp numbers. Maye try another dyno or running it in a different gear.

That being said you need more stick. Dont get complex about it just stick a bigger cam in it and it will make more hp. You are running the numbers on torque a larger cam will sort a lot of the issues you are having. Just dont go crazy but BIGGER!

Is the car flat. Does it run out of power up high. If so more cam will fix it. Heads are **** so what all stock heads are **** yours are just more so. Cam it and go. Unless your going bigger all over.

Dont go forced if the heads are bad it will promote bad air and detonate to much to make big power.

210cc heads are generally for 400 to 500 hp engines. Less for less power engines. larger for more high rpm/cam engine.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:24 PM
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I'm not a pro at this by any means but I have a good feeling that a 142-144ci blower with 6lbs of boost, the Brodix Wild Thing heads (1.6:1 roller rockers) and the Comp cam would be a very powerful combination as well as keeping me to about 11:1 dynamic compression under 6lbs of boost. I think the thing would easily make 400hp maybe even closer to 500hp??? The only problem with this setup is that it will cost me about another $5,000... that sir is the heartbreaker! I understand the mustang dyno is lower on numbers, supposedly its about a 7% net loss across the board. If I do decide to spend some de niro on this setup stated above, would I be out of my mind to expect 400-500hp or am I delusional? Thanks
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:40 PM
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you dont need a blower for 400 horses.first thing I said
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:46 PM
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I understand... i was asking about that specific setup. What could i potentially see from that? Also, what would be a good 76cc head/cam/intake to get me to 400hp? Thanks
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 05:53 PM
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A 360 inch engine with 3.5cc domes, a .055 deck, .015 gasket and 76cc heads is only about 9.4:1. I think the knock you are fighting is due to the excessive quench. Get some 70cc aluminum heads and you will have pump gas compression.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caballerokid View Post
I'm not a pro at this by any means but I have a good feeling that a 142-144ci blower with 6lbs of boost, the Brodix Wild Thing heads (1.6:1 roller rockers) and the Comp cam would be a very powerful combination as well as keeping me to about 11:1 dynamic compression under 6lbs of boost. I think the thing would easily make 400hp maybe even closer to 500hp??? The only problem with this setup is that it will cost me about another $5,000... that sir is the heartbreaker! I understand the mustang dyno is lower on numbers, supposedly its about a 7% net loss across the board. If I do decide to spend some de niro on this setup stated above, would I be out of my mind to expect 400-500hp or am I delusional? Thanks
I would not go that way at all. for 500 hp you can get that a lot cheaper. But yes blower will get you at least 400 hp. But it will knock if the cam is too small and at your current dyno numbers i bet it will be an issue. Brodix or motown WOP heads with 210cc intake and larger cam will make you 350-400 hp without much fuss. You may need to swap out the intake for airgap or single plain style. headers and most everything else seems ok. Not ideal but should function unless i missed somehting major. It does happen. You can get most performance heads in any head cc size usally they use open chanber heads flow is better around the valves than 64 cc heads just not the ones you have. heads and cam will sort most of your issues.

FI is not a great choice for mild v8. Its not practicle to build a blown engine for another few ponies. if you wanted 600hp I would probably suggest turbos but for a solid 400 you dont have to look nearly that far.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:56 PM
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Interesting
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 06:44 PM
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Are you saying .555" lift is too small for a blower? That would be the cam i would use instead of the one i already have. The one i already have would take me to 13.5:1 cr at 6lbs of boost. Also why would you not blow a motor but rather turbo one? Theyre both stupid expensive... If i were going blower route the whole motor would be different except the bottom end. Also 400hp isnt my end goal. I want to make at least 400hp. More is better but at least 400.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport View Post
A 360 inch engine with 3.5cc domes, a .055 deck, .015 gasket and 76cc heads is only about 9.4:1. I think the knock you are fighting is due to the excessive quench. Get some 70cc aluminum heads and you will have pump gas compression.
1. Please refer to post #30, where I figured his SCR at 9.75:1 and DCR at 8.76:1.
2. The squish is 0.055", not that far off the preferred mark of 0.035" to 0.045".
3. He has 76cc heads now. Smaller chambers will raise both the static compression ratio and the dynamic compression ratio and will not change the squish. How do you see that as helping?
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 08:20 PM
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More TQ than HP???

Let me show you what you could do with a set of out the box aluminum heads. About 180-185cc intake runners, 72cc chambers, 2.02 & 1.6 valves. A.015 steel shim head gasket. A solid roller camshaft 12-771-8 XR280R .570/.576 lift and 242/248 duration @ .050. Your short block and a Victor JR with a 750 Demon Carburetor. On the dyno from CamQuest this combo would make Peak HP 431@5500, Peak TQ 441@4500. Add 2.08 valves and pocket port the heads and gasket match heads and intake. The peak HP would be 512@6500, 470 TQ@5000. Your compression raio would be 10.571 and the DCR would be 8.613. I don't think the deck clearance will be no more than .025 when checked. So this engine will have a .040 quench. The DCR being a little high mix some 93 and 110 octane gas 4:1. You wouldn't have to worry about detonation and you could add timing if you need it.

Last edited by cdminter59; 11-02-2012 at 08:26 PM.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 08:36 PM
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Thats great and all but thats not much cheaper than going the blower route. That route would be roughly $4000 all said and done. The blower route would be about $4,500 - maybe $5,000 plus with the blower I'd probably have the potential to make nearly 600hp??? If I would need to go big, why not go all the way? I'm just asking... for all the work I would do to replace all that and make that kind of power, why not throw the blower on it and make more hp for only $1000 more? Now if we're talking like $2000 or more difference I could see not going all out and maybe staying a little more conservative, but $1000 idk. I haven't made my mind up yet because it is still only a 2 bolt main motor. There is still a 3rd option on the table... throw this out all together and weld in an LS motor for that price with a decent turbo. Idk...
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