[sapsz28]

Hi guys I have a .60 over 350 10:75-1 comp 010 block 041 heads 2.02-1.65 fully ported polished 5 anle valve job matching valvetrain components, roller top 1.6's xe268 flat on the bottom 30 under steel crank reworked rods m55hv pump 800 edelbrock carb rpm manifold fully ported,full flowmaster 2 1/2 h pipe and high flow magnaflow cats to keep the boys in blue happy the car runs better than i ever imagined,it has off idle smooth acceleration and when i hop on it it lays rubber for 150 feet through 1st and second,my god its a dream to drive. its in a 1980 Z28 M21 with 3:42out back I have a stock oil pan but I put in a moroso 2qt oil filter for the extra capacity rather than lose underside clearance with a bigger pan.does anyone out there have any experiance with this filter,I run Vr1 20w50 and in the cooler weather 10w30,cold idle 60 psi hot idle 50 psi cruise and draggging 65-75 psi 6000rpm tops.Its my first build after 20 years of reading and I took the plunge.OMG its incredible i know I sound like a broken record but I'm so happy,sorry getting back to the filter any experiamce would be thankfully received and faithfully applied.

[richard stewart 3rd]

Hi,
The car sounds nice, just be careful
I haven't used the Moroso filter, but I use AC's & it wouldn't
surprise me if moroso's were re branded AC's. not saying they
are, but could be.
Rich

[sapsz28]

The psi burst rating is 350 psi as for the manufacter your guess is as good as mine

[ericnova72]

Having a 2 qt. filter really isn't helping your oil system any. What is in the filter capacity-wise is always in the filter, not in the engine. Increased capacity is only of benefit if it is in the pan, or by using a pressurized accumulator to store it until needed. All the 2 qt filter accomplishes is it will take longer to become fully dirty.

[4 Jaw Chuck]

Capacity in the pan or filter is the same, an extra quart can't hurt. I imagine the filtering area is much larger as well with the larger can.

[richard stewart 3rd]

Hi,
An extra quart of oil, giving up more heat.
Rich

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by richard stewart 3rd

Hi,
An extra quart of oil, giving up more heat.
Rich

Or, depending on the relative position of the oil filter to the exhaust system, absorbing more heat.

I look at a filter as needing to be large enough to filter the oil for 3K miles. And strong enough not to burst at cold start-up w/ a 60 psi pressure relief spring in the pump and NO by-pass in the filter housing.

If it meets that criteria, I don't care how large it is, although I don't go out of my way to buy an extra small filter, either.

The standard-capacity Chevy filters have served me well. I don't mind the down-sized filters used on the newer engines- as I said, it only needs to do its job for 3K miles, then is replaced.

I've used everything from AC to Wix (including Fram ) filters- I buy what's on sale. Others may well cringe at this, I readily admit it just the same.

[richard stewart 3rd]

I put a remote on my Sable for just that reason (to close to the exhaust manifold) plus the mess it made when removing it, I wont snake around the exhaust to put a filter on when they make remotes, & as for 3,000 mile changes, I use synthetic in everything & a lot longer then 3,000 miles for a change, the one 4X4 holds almost 17qts, 6 in the pan.

[sapsz28]

Whats the difference if in the pan or filter either way witha hv pump does it not ensure that the motor will have more oil to use snd cool rather than it cause parasitic drag if it was splashing the crank,as well I dont have the ground clearance for a larger pan. As well if it was a dry sump set up would that not be the same by not storing the oil in the pan but circulating through the block.either way I now run 7qts instead of 5,without putting strain on the crank,yet have lots of oil,to move around. Thank you for the info.

[oldbogie]

Originally Posted by sapsz28

Whats the difference if in the pan or filter either way witha hv pump does it not ensure that the motor will have more oil to use snd cool rather than it cause parasitic drag if it was splashing the crank,as well I dont have the ground clearance for a larger pan. As well if it was a dry sump set up would that not be the same by not storing the oil in the pan but circulating through the block.either way I now run 7qts instead of 5,without putting strain on the crank,yet have lots of oil,to move around. Thank you for the info.

There's nothing wrong about your filtration and a lot of good can be said for it as it will insure that all the oil gets filtered all the time without risking starving the engine with a full time filter of insufficent flow capacity.

The down side is the belief that all capacity is good, in this case two coffee cans of oil not in the sump aren't providing the protection that added sump capacity does. The protection is that of insuring the pickup doesn't suck air and that the rate of any particular thimble full of oil isn't circulating so often it doesn't have time to give up entrained air bubbles. To these ends, added pan capacity for a wet sump and reservoir capacity in a dry sump helps the oil be available for the pump and gives it time to out gas the air bubbles.

The problem we always get into with a wet sump is clearance between the bottom of the pan and the road's surface. A deep pan, if you can use it, puts more oil depth above the pickup which greatly reduces the possibility of forming a vortex that draws air along with the oil. It could also help with insuring that vehicle maneuvers don't result in the oil being somewhere in the pan that the pick up isn't. Again the extra capacity gives the oil time to de-gas before it's sucked into the pump again. Most of the entrained air (really crankcase fumes) gets whipped into the oil as it gets blasted around by the crank assembly on it's way back to the sump. This is the damaging part of windage, not this theory that oil exists as ropes wrapped around the crank. Not to say that windage doesn't need to be controlled, it does.

The use of an inverted T pan will increase capacity but the configuration while allowing time for trapped gasses to escape the oil doesn't help protect the intake against sucking air.

In the stock pan or a deep pan or the inverted T pan it is perhaps more important to use baffles and doors to contain oil around the pick up than is the selection of the pan shape and capacity. Starting with the crank, it is useful to have a scraper to catch the oil being flung off with the windage and direct it back into the pan. A pan with a side kickout at the bolt line is even better as it gives the oil some calming distance from crank and rods as it falls back to the sump. A baffle above the pump pickup and top of the deep sump that covers the sides front and rear of the sump is useful in keeping the oil around the pickup when the vehicle is placing G loads on the oil that would cause it to move away from the pickup. Above that a decent windage tray is useful to separate the oil by allowing throw off to escape into a quieter environment where it can begin to give up entrained gasses as it runs back into the sump and isn't likely to get whipped by the windage back into the crank assembly.

As for power lost driving a high volume oil pump, this is marginal at best and unless you're a top line competitive racer with the bucks to rebuild the engine every few races, I think the risk to cooking or running the bearings dry far outweighs any slight power advantage especially if you can't afford to open it up every race or two and restore the bearings and pistons.

Bogie

[sapsz28]

Thanks alot Bogie you opened up my eyes to things I was unaware of, when I get the chance I'll go for all 3 scraper windage tray and deep sump pan.

Thanks again