mounting exterior mirrors to doors - '65 chevy truck? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 06:25 AM
Socket Breaker
 

Last journal entry: My website for my '65 chevy c10 lwb step
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seeing the USA in my Chevrolet!
Posts: 37
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
mounting exterior mirrors to doors - '65 chevy truck?

Ok, first off, I am rather ignorant about this sort of thing, but I'll try to explain what I want to do.



This is my truck... a '65 c10 chevy lwb stepside.



The white painted mirrors on the right in the above photo are the ones I want to mount up to my doors.



The above picture shows the situation that is underneath the mirror brackets that are currently on there.

From what little I know, welding is the best way to fill in these holes... and from what I have read or been told, after being welded... that welded part will be harder than the surrounding sheetmetal... so it would be better to mount up the mirrors like I need them before having them welded, right?

I have never mounted up mirrors on a vehcile before, so what do I need to make sure of or watch out for?

Thanks.

-W

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 06:17 PM
66GMC's Avatar
Get in, sit down, hang on
 

Last journal entry: Cab Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Olds, Alberta Canada
Age: 57
Posts: 2,763
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 32
Thanked 91 Times in 86 Posts
Well Nuts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woogeroo

I have never mounted up mirrors on a vehcile before, so what do I need to make sure of or watch out for?

Thanks.

-W
I can't comment on the welding thing, but I imagine that it should be safe to drill the new ones first.

Be sure to us "well" nuts in the newly drilled holes so that you have something secure to bolt to.

I shake my head when I see people mounting mirrors to panels with sheet metal or self-tapping screws. These are usually the same guys that have their mirrors falling out of the rusty holes in a few years.

Style is a matter of choice, but I rather prefer the "flag" style that you have now. Are you replacing them because of vibration? If so, try a set of early-80's Ford F150 mirrors like I did. They fit reasonably well, with some minor bending of the brackets, and are "rock steady" on my 66 GMC.

I'm attaching a couple of pic's of them. Open the 2nd one and zoom in to 100% for a good look.

P.S. My original mirror was a really small round one that mounted on that triangular "plug". This time, that will be filled permanently!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Mirrors.jpg
Views:	84
Size:	211.2 KB
ID:	6528   Click image for larger version

Name:	mirrors2.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	62.2 KB
ID:	6529  

Last edited by 66GMC; 08-21-2005 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Original Mirror
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 06:26 PM
steve t's Avatar
ex biker, now hotrodder
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NC
Age: 64
Posts: 863
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
i like the chorme ones that are on it, but it not my truck
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 08:37 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,707
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I agree, the chrome ones that are on now are much better looking IMO.

Mock up your new mirrors and mark the holes to find out if they fall into the same area as the exhisting holes. Drill the new holes then have the others welded up. Use a good sealant around the well nuts and hardware to keep moisture out. Stip calk, dumdum, plumber's putty, roofing tar or anything similar will work to keep moisture out of the fastener area. Bob
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2005, 03:25 AM
Socket Breaker
 

Last journal entry: My website for my '65 chevy c10 lwb step
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seeing the USA in my Chevrolet!
Posts: 37
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The mirrors that are on it are broke and I'm 'over them' so to speak.

I like the big honkin' mirror look... . I bought the big mirrors off a guy who hot rodded his '64 chevy c10.

I think only one hole 'sorta almost kinda' lines up last time I messed with it.

I was also wondering, should I find some kinda material to go between the bracket mount and the paint/panel of the door or no?

"Well nuts"... what are those exactly?

I've read and been told I need to have something back there to spread the load out, instead of just the bolt... makes sense to me. I've read various things, from using 'fender washers(no idea where to get them)' to puttin' a piece of sheetmetal back there for the nuts to go through.

Thanks very much for the replies and suggestions.

-W
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2005, 06:15 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,707
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Well nuts are threaded inserts you install in the door skin, some are rubber and others are alluminum. I guess you wouldn't need to use the well nuts if you made a plastic gasket and used stainless bolts and nuts. You could also make a reinforcing plate to go inside the door-this would eliminate some doorskin flex and possible cracking.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2005, 09:49 AM
66GMC's Avatar
Get in, sit down, hang on
 

Last journal entry: Cab Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Olds, Alberta Canada
Age: 57
Posts: 2,763
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 32
Thanked 91 Times in 86 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woogeroo
"Well nuts"... what are those exactly?
Here's a picture of the ones that we (NAPA) sell.
To be honest, I like the Ford ones (aluminum) better.

Perhaps a nylon washer between the mirror arm and the door panel will prevent rubbing?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	wellnuts.jpg
Views:	67
Size:	189.8 KB
ID:	6540  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2005, 04:30 AM
Socket Breaker
 

Last journal entry: My website for my '65 chevy c10 lwb step
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seeing the USA in my Chevrolet!
Posts: 37
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
66gmc - thanks for the picture of the well nuts.

Thanks again to everyone's replies.

Ya'll have given me some more things and options to think about, which is what I was looking for as I don't want to just start drillin' holes.

Any tips on drilling sheet metal? The door will be mounted and so forth...

As I write this post I'm sitting here thinking that I have not done that(drilled sheet metal) before... hmn.

I've drilled wood, concrete, metal washers, metal brackets...

Thanks.

As ya'll can tell I need all the tips I can get.

-W
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2005, 03:08 PM
66GMC's Avatar
Get in, sit down, hang on
 

Last journal entry: Cab Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Olds, Alberta Canada
Age: 57
Posts: 2,763
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 32
Thanked 91 Times in 86 Posts
Here's how I would do that:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woogeroo
Any tips on drilling sheet metal? The door will be mounted and so forth...
-W
1.) Use a large, say 1-1/2" or 2" square piece of masking tape close to where you'll be drilling.
2.) Mark the locations of the spot to be drilled on the masking tape, being careful to mark the center of the hole as exactly as you can.
3.) Use a center punch to "dimple" the center of the hole. This will help to steady the drill bit when it starts turning and prevent it from "walking".
4.) Use either a high-speed or cobalt drill bit as this is what you need for drilling metal. You'll want to select a bit just big enough that the well nut fits fairly tight.
4A.) Actually, drilling the initial hole with a purposely smaller bit, followed by the correctly sized bit might be a good idea.
5.) After drilling the hole, remove the masking tape and have a look for any sharp steel edges that may protrude above the hole. If there are any, you should remove them. The easiest way is to clean it up with a round file, or take the next larger bit and LIGHTLY chamfer the edge of the hole.
6.) As badbob suggest earlier, use some kind of sealant putty and install the well-nut.

If you're using the aluminum type -- they need to be pre-crimped before bolting on the mirror. Using a 1-1/2" long bolt, nut, and flat-washer that is the same thread diameter as the well-nut (in that order), screw this assembled hardware into the well nut. Hold the bolt-head with one wrench and tighten the nut with another. This will cause the well-nut to "crush" and swell out behind the sheet metal and tighten itself in the hole. After crushing the well nut, you'll have a permanently mounted threaded hole to mount your mirror to.

HTH,
Don
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2005, 03:51 AM
Socket Breaker
 

Last journal entry: My website for my '65 chevy c10 lwb step
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seeing the USA in my Chevrolet!
Posts: 37
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
66gmc - thanks - that is good info, thanks for taking the time to type it up and post it.



I had most of it but the maskin' tape bit...

I must be on the right track.

-W
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2006, 04:40 PM
Socket Breaker
 

Last journal entry: My website for my '65 chevy c10 lwb step
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seeing the USA in my Chevrolet!
Posts: 37
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts



latest photos(02/26/2006):

http://woogeroo.home.mindspring.com/.../02262006.html


up close mirror photos(02/11/2006):

http://woogeroo.home.mindspring.com/.../02112006.html


Thanks for tips and advice.

-W
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Car 235ci into '53 Chevy Truck New2theart Engine 8 10-17-2006 01:37 AM
1951 Chevy Truck chevblazk5 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 01-26-2006 09:27 PM
Graft a pontiac engine into a 63 chevy truck Raphyel Engine 10 09-02-2004 02:19 PM
69 chevy truck front end change dragn azz Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 07-23-2003 02:16 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.