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Old 12-27-2008, 12:21 PM
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mounting a no holes polished SS bumper help?

I just got a polished stainless steel no holes bumper for the rear of my 56 F100, I expected that it would have studs or some kind of brackets welded to the back of it for mounting but there is nothing.

It was suggested to me to use body panel adhesive and glue it right to the bumper brackets that bolt on to my frame rails, I'm all for this idea as I don't want to do any welding on it, however I don't have a clue as to what would be a good adhesive to use.

keep in mind the bumper is a bit on the heavy side and I don't want to see that thing flying in to someones windshield on the freeway, I did a search on body panel adhesive but didn't find anything that made me feel good about doing this.
So does anyone have some ideas for me without welding or drilling holes?
Thanks guys

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Old 12-27-2008, 12:49 PM
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mounting a no holes polished SS bumper help?

The door hinges on many cars & trucks have been glued on since the mid 90's. I don't like the idea but it sounds like you don't really have a choice. My staff is off today & my supplier is closed so I don't know the exact part number for the correct adhesive but if you check with a bodyshop supply store in your area, they should be able to guide you in the right direction.

Happy New Year.
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Old 12-27-2008, 03:07 PM
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Don't mistake glued on hinges for those spot welded ones.


I beleive MartinSR was saying if you pull an adhesived panel up or down...(like when you rub your hands together, you know?) the adhesive will fail as its not designed for sheer strength. Don't hold me to it though.
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Old 12-27-2008, 05:05 PM
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bolts........

HI,weld stainless steel bolts onto the bumper. glue will not take the vibration for long. s/s is easy to polish on the outside of the bumper.
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Old 12-27-2008, 08:05 PM
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mounting a no holes polished SS bumper help?

Bumpers are made of spring steel, once you weld on them the metal around the welded area shrinks due to the heat so you get a slight warp around each bolt. I see it all the time because one of my businesses repairs bumpers for many chrome shops & custom shops aswell.
Adhesives have come a long way in the past few years. I checked my 86 Blazer & my 05 Denali, both have glued on hinges. If gluing works, I would suggest it. My hotrod shop is open on Monday so if you like I can talk to my fabricators & bodymen to see what they suggest.

It might be best to contact the manufacturer for suggestions aswell.
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Old 12-29-2008, 07:33 AM
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Thanks LS-57, I look forward to hearing what your guys say.

everyone I have talked to about welding on the back of this thing has told me that it should have been done prior to being surfaced and polished ( the bumper is perfectly flat) , I talked to Mid Fifty F100 parts and they said that this is the way they have always received these bumpers and had no suggestions on mounting.
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:12 AM
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Weld mounting bolts on the back of the bumper, a good welder with highly adjustable welder can do it so it causes min heat and polishing.
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Old 12-29-2008, 06:23 PM
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Possibly make a bracket from 1/8th inch steel that matches the inner contour of the bumper & weld the bolts to it then weld it to the inner edge of the bumper.
Shane
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 56f100
Thanks LS-57, I look forward to hearing what your guys say.

everyone I have talked to about welding on the back of this thing has told me that it should have been done prior to being surfaced and polished ( the bumper is perfectly flat) , I talked to Mid Fifty F100 parts and they said that this is the way they have always received these bumpers and had no suggestions on mounting.
Yup if we do all the welding and fabricating we need to do before we send it to the platers or powder coaters..In this nefarius situation I would then drill and bolt the bumper as my need for works overrides the need for pretty..Either nice chrome headed bolts or just maybe find a way so they are in a spot where the bolts are not as obtrusive..nobody but us'uns need to know it was not intended to be that way..

Sam
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:57 PM
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Sorry 56F100 I live in the great white north & every 10 years we get a good snow fall that leaves our roads very slippery. Well our time was up so my guys didn't make it to work today. I'll get back to you tomorrow, sorry for not getting back to you today.
What brand bumper is it?
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:12 AM
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To glue or not to glue a bumper.

3M has an epoxy adhesive that would do the trick it is called Plexus. I have used it to glue city bus panels together. It is what is recommended by the Gillig bus manufacture. It is real good and it even has an FAA rating and is used in airplane construction. I would however make sure that the brackets have a substantial mounting/mating area of about 3x3 inches for the glued area in concern. Even if that meant welding a couple pieces of flat stock or plate to them to mate up with the back side of the bumper. I would also make sure that they fit to the back side of the bumper real good and the shape followed the same contour. I would then sand blast the area on the back side of the bumper and the mating surface of the bracket to insure good adhesion. If you go this route be sure to use duct tape and not masking tape to the area of the bumper that you do not want to be sand blasted and completely tape that area up. I have had no failure with this adhesive and have not heard of any. New BMW's incorporate this same method for attaching the frame rails to the floor boards and inner skirts and by now you know of the other areas where adhesive is used. You will have to mount the brackets to the truck and then clamp the bumper with the adhesive to the brackets. You will have to be very patient and if need be use shims where necessary to insure proper alignment. You can make shims out of little pieces of cut stock about 1/16 or 1/8 by 1/4x1/4 inch. Put them between the bumper and the bracket and just let the adhesive flow around them. You may have to make a little coffer dam around the area to keep the adhesive from flowing out before it sets up. You can do this with masking tape. Vise grip makes a real good C-clamp plier that would be my first choice for clamping. Put a piece of rubber or wood between the clamp and the shiny side of the bumper so you don't scratch it. Check the alignment and fit several times by clamping the bumper in place without the adhesive. If shims are needed number them and mark their locations and again pre fit several times. Patients is the big thing here because the only way to un-glue it from the bracket is with a torch! Check with your local commercial automotive body shop supplier for the 3M products that are available and he may even know of something better than Plexus.

With all of that said and done and knowing how good I am at welding, I would probably weld some Stainless Steel studs or bolts with the heads cut off to the back side of the bumper. Depending on how the brackets fit I might would even leave the bolt heads on because it would give me a better welding area. The biggest advantage being that if you had to shim the bumper for a good fit/alignment then you could do this easy enough with a couple of washers between the brackets and the backside of the bumper. If you have ever used a buffer then you can polish out any damage that would occur to the front side. Even if the welding were to cause a few dimples you could use a draw file or a mill bastard (I love saying that) to level them out. You can also do the leveling with a good straight wet rock and fine oil. The same thing that you use for knife sharpening. Just put some oil on it, lay it down flat and move it back and forth in a rotating fashion (oh how I wish I could get my girlfriend to do that). After you use the file and or rock you would then use your dual action sander on locked mode so the pad would spin rather then oscillate. Get you a nice place to sit with the bumper across you lap, a small TV and have at it. Start off with 180 grit and remove all scratches. After all the scratches are removed you would then work your way up through a series of finer grit sand paper, 280, 320 and on up until you were ready to use the buffer and polish with a quality wool pad. After you sand the area you may even have to use wet sandpaper with kerosene instead of water from 400, 600 an on up to 1500 or so to get it smooth enough. When you run the buffer over it and it doesn't polish up fairly quick then you may have to back up and sand some more or use a finner grit sandpaper. Stainless steel polishes very nice but it is also very hard and takes a lot of work, that is why you use the sandpaper first. You can't hurt it so to speak and you can't polish through like you can with a chrome bumper. A jeweler friend of mine once told me that stainless steel is the best thing you could possibly make jewelry out of and the reason you don't see more of it is because it takes so much work to polish it. If I were to do this on four locations for two bumpers I would at least allow myself a complete day to accomplish the task.

Chris

Last edited by Chris Kemp; 12-30-2008 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:44 AM
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I have not used the 3M Plexus adhesive but if it has the ratings Chris Kemp mentions it must be good. 3M is a top of the line product with which we have had no troubles with.
I checked with my supplier & they recommend 3M #8115, they had not heard of Plexus. I would say talk to your local industrial bodyshop supplier (not a retailer) about which product to use.
Be sure to follow Chris Kemp's advise on the mounting procedure. It is right on. I don't think you'll have any problems with this procedure. It has been proven over & over again in many new car manufacturer's. I have an unrelated business to automotive & we test adhesives to 2600lbs pulling force. I understand these are different adhesives but it does go to show that adhesives have come a long way in the past number of years.
If you choose to weld it, make sure it is an excellent welder who performs the work. It is easy to distort the bumper at the welded areas. Also be prepared, like Chris mentioned, for alot of hard work polishing it.
Good luck
Happy New Year
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Old 01-04-2009, 01:42 PM
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thanks LS-57 & Chris, I haven't made up my mind as to what direction I'm going on this bumper yet, Mid Fifties told me they would swap it out for the one that has the holes punched in to it no problem, that one uses carriage bolts.
I really like the look of the no bolt heads but I'm leaning toward the easy and totally safe rout of just bolting it right to the mounts.
thanks guys,
Devin
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Old 01-04-2009, 08:59 PM
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If you go the route of bolts, make sure you use stainless steel for bolts and nuts. Stainless steel carriage bolts are harder to find but they are out there. They will probably have raised numbers of some sorts on the head but you can sand these off with your dual action sander. Take some nuts with the same thread and lock them in the vise. Then screw the bolts into them with the head sticking up. Sand them in the same process that I spoke of earlier and them polish them with the buffer. An easy task and shouldn't take more then about five minutes a bolt.

Good luck and I hope everything works out for you!
Chris
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Old 01-31-2009, 01:26 PM
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SS bumper bolts

Hello, I was reading your problem with what type of bolt to use on your SS bumper. I just finish a sweet 55- 2 dr. HT Belair and you can buy the bolts you need, Danchuk has them readily available ther number is 800-854-6911 hope this helps
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