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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2008, 08:08 AM
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If you do drill a leaf, use a masonry bit. I know, too late...

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2008, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN
DOH! Too late, I redrilled the hole 3/4" farther aft. Well, "drilled" isn't quite the word... My 1/8" bit went through just fine, the larger bits all broke after partial penitration. I ended up separating the leafs and using my plasma torch to do a controlled "gouge". The hole was actually 5/16" centered in a 2 1/2" wide leaf, think it'll break? The plasma didn't put much heat into it, I could still touch the area barehanded after each 2 or 3 second burst...

Russ

Ok......at the very least, you need to drill the hole so it is smooth on it's sidewall. The little notches left by the plasma torch on the sidewall of your new cut hole are stress risers. Use a carbide drill, (masonary drill does work, usually I have to re sharpen the stock tip), or use a carbide burr in a die grinder.


I'm betting that eventually it will break.

Let us know.


Later, mikey
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2008, 09:35 PM
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PUT DOWN THE TOOLS AND STEP AWAY FROM THE CAR
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2008, 06:44 AM
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Another option to consider next time is to just turn the spring around as the spring bolt hole is not typically in the longitudinal center of the spring. I did this on my 54 Chevy truck and it repositioned the axle 1" further back.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2008, 06:52 AM
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If all springs are positioned so that there is larger distance on the rear part there is probably a reason. I would be interested to hear why they do it and if it is a good idea to change the design.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2008, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrimshaw
If all springs are positioned so that there is larger distance on the rear part there is probably a reason. I would be interested to hear why they do it and if it is a good idea to change the design.
My understanding is that typically a shorter length in front is to control spring wrap, while the longer rear keeps the suspension soft enough to give a good ride . Notice also that the stepping on a multileaf spring with a shorter division length in front is closer together on the front end of the spring , this adds even more resistance to wrap.

Some aftermarket springs for performance use actually have an extra half leaf in the front.

The use of a long/short division leafspring is determined by many factors, weight of car, HP, intended use, etc.




Check out the drilling a spring tech question found on eaton detoits page.
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqDrillingASpring.htm


While you are at it, check out the other questions and answers they have there.
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqMainPage.htm

Anyone even remotely interested in spring technology will gain some knowledge there.

There are several more pretty good tech pages on that website also.


Later, mikey
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Old 05-28-2008, 07:42 AM
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The reason springs are shorter on the front is to make that part stiffer so that the spring wrap under acceleration provides some lift, like a traction bar. Reduces axle hop.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2008, 08:10 AM
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I'll add another .02 to this thread. You now have a good main spring to use as a mock up to make sure you have the right dimensions to center your wheel in the opening. After that, scrap it before you have the opportunity to scrap your ride!!! You not only have a non precise hole, the spring steel is weakened from the plasma cut, but the other hole is there, further weakening the spring. To quote Ralph Nader "Unsafe at any speed".

Trees
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Old 05-28-2008, 08:21 AM
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Lots of good info on that site Mike but some seems to be ambiguous

This link says it is ok to swap ends.
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqTurningSpringsAround.htm

But this one implies it is not.
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqAxleWrap.htm

confused.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2008, 11:43 AM
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There is no way no how that I would ever touch that spring with plasma, or a drill. I woudn't even think about modifying the spring, not when you can modify the pad on the rear end so much easier!

I would be looking at EVERYTHING, the body being in wrong place, the springs being wrong, the springs being mounted wrong on the frame, there has got to be something.

I know that on the early Chevys with a torque tube drive the rear end was mounted on the spring with a "hinge" device so the rear would pivot on the springs throughout the suspension travel.

This "hinge" device mounted IN FRONT of the axle not right under it. This meant that the thru bolt in the spring was NOT in the center of the fender, but forward of it an inch or so.

If you have original springs, or had them made to those specs, that could be your problem.

I always simply drilled a hole in the front of the spring pad on the rear end and it was good to go.


Brian
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2008, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrimshaw
Lots of good info on that site Mike but some seems to be ambiguous

This link says it is ok to swap ends.
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqTurningSpringsAround.htm

But this one implies it is not.
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqAxleWrap.htm

confused.

They are both ok, as long as you know what the end use of the car will be.

For the typical street rodder, axle wrap is not a big concern, (first link), while a guy who wants to drive with a leadfoot is having problems associated with axle wrap, and defeated the whole purpose of the shorter front spring division by swapping ends of an extreme example of the short/long spring design....(second link).

No confusion at all, but you need to realize that you can't have everything.

later, mikey
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2008, 08:06 PM
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Thanks for the clarification Mike. I am always very careful before changing a manufacturer's design.
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