[robbie34chevy]

I have a ford 8in on my 34 Chevy. never realized util I went to bigger tires that my rearend was not centered inside my fenders. The 8in sits on leaf springs. What would be the easyest way to move it back 1 1/2 inch?

[Crosley]

moving to the suspension forum.

[Deuce]

I would remove the leaf springs and have a spring shop relocate the center pin.

BUT FIRST ...
I would measure the spring and see if I put the rear of the spring where the front is now... it would not fix my problem. Some springs do not have the pin in the center if the leaf pack.

[powerrodsmike]

1.5"? that's alot. Especially that you never noticed it before. Moving the rear that far you may wind up needing to lenghten your driveshaft, as well as your soft brake line that goes from the frame to the rear end. Remember that if the measured difference of where the wheel needs to be is 1.5", you only need to move it .75" to get it centered.


Many old cars do have wheel centering issues, the OEMs didn't place much value on visual stuff like that.

Check what Deuce said, many springs are shorter in front than in the back. It is never the other way around, (that I've seen, anyway).

In order to relocate the axle in a car with the wheels not centered in the wheelwell, have drilled new centering holes in the spring perch to relocate the axle, moved the front spring mount, and made lowering blocks with an offset hole.

I'd be careful if drilling a new hole in the springs, it could weaken them at a point that was unsupported by the spring perch and lower plate.


Later, mikey

[robbie34chevy]

Thanks I like the idea of using lowering blocks with an off set hole. I understood you made yours but where can I purchase them?

[powerrodsmike]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2153...ering%20blocks


later, mikey

[robbie34chevy]

Thanks for putting me on the correct path

[Stovebolter]

Originally Posted by powerrodsmike

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2153...ering%20blocks


later, mikey

Oh...thats cool Mikey. I never knew such a thing existed. That goes in my shop bible.

Dave

[powerrodsmike]

What's really funny is that I like paper catalogs way more than online ones...I get them from all kinds of places and when I get a new one, even if it's from an old source like speedway motors... I look through it..(each catalog spends at least part of it's life in the shop "reading room", on the top of the tank) I can page through an entire catalog in way less time than doing on the internet, and see all the new stuff.

I just saw that adjustable block for the first time myself, a couple of days ago.

I also saw a electric power steering pump, and an electric brake booster.

Later, mikey

[S10xGN]

Originally Posted by powerrodsmike

...In order to relocate the axle in a car with the wheels not centered in the wheelwell, have drilled new centering holes in the spring perch to relocate the axle... I'd be careful if drilling a new hole in the springs, it could weaken them at a point that was unsupported by the spring perch and lower plate.

Later, mikey

Mike,

Sorry to butt in, but I have the same situation on my Maverick and I don't want to lower it. I moved the front spring boxes inboard 3" (for tire clearance) by building a new set of boxes from square tube. Even though the new spring eye holes align perfectly with the old ones, the PASS side tire is not centered like the DR side. My plan is to redrill the hole in the leafs slightly to the rear of the current hole which could result in an overlap situation. My question is, can the original holes be welded shut or will this ruin the spring? We're not talking mega-heat here, just filling a 7/16" hole...

Russ

[powerrodsmike]

I would think that welding up a hole in a spring will do more damage than leaving the extra hole there.

Spring steel is a different alloy than most welding wire that I know of, and cracking at the edge of the welded area would be a concern...but besides that, putting heat in the center of the spring will surely take the temper out, in the middle of the spring, (where it's needed the most), and wreck that spring.

All that being said, I'd rather put the extra hole in the spring perch. That old hole can be welded up with no adverse effects. Or it can just be left alone, unless it will allow the spring to slide back to it's original position.


Later, mikey

[hardhatz]

My old Chevy Sedan Delivery had the spring bolt hole ahead of the axle. So, when I put a 57 Olds powertrain in it, I had the same problem. I made a pair of plates 3/8" thick x 6 inches long x the width of the leaves, with 2 holes. One hole encountered the leaf center pin. The other had a short pin welded in to mate with the axle. Cheap, works, and if you don't like the location, throw them away & build 2 more. (it will lower the car 3/8 inch...) When you get it the way you want it, go ahead & weld the plates to your axle mounting pads if you want to.

[trees]

You definitely do not want to screw with the spring bolt hole in any form or fashion, like welding or drilling another. I have experienced a main spring breaking through the bolt hole and that is instant uncontrollable rear steer unless you get lucky and have your ebrake cable lock the wheel and reduce the drag pulling the axle side ways. Mikey, wish you and I had invented and patented that block!!! I am going to get the milling machine cranked up and make a couple of sets.

Trees

[Triaged]

I just drill another hold in the spring perch on the axle You also have to drill an offset hole in the u-bolt plate for the other end of the center pin.

[S10xGN]

DOH! Too late, I redrilled the hole 3/4" farther aft. Well, "drilled" isn't quite the word... My 1/8" bit went through just fine, the larger bits all broke after partial penitration. I ended up separating the leafs and using my plasma torch to do a controlled "gouge". The hole was actually 5/16" centered in a 2 1/2" wide leaf, think it'll break? The plasma didn't put much heat into it, I could still touch the area barehanded after each 2 or 3 second burst...

Russ