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Old 03-16-2013, 10:52 AM
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MSD Distributor

Am I thinking right? I have a MSD distributor with mechanical advance that I'd like to limit. Knowing the total amount of advance built into the distributor, say 16 degrees, and I attach a cheap plastic protractor to the advance unit to get the arc of the unit, then limit the arc to say half of the advance travel (limited by a ground down screw edge) would that be 8 degrees of advance?

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Old 03-16-2013, 11:59 AM
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My MSD-8361 came with various bushings to alter the advance.
Also included were several advance springs.

Which distributor do you have ?
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:04 PM
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"Am I thinking right? I have a MSD distributor with mechanical advance that I'd like to limit. Knowing the total amount of advance built into the distributor, say 16 degrees, and I attach a cheap plastic protractor to the advance unit to get the arc of the unit, then limit the arc to say half of the advance travel (limited by a ground down screw edge) would that be 8 degrees of advance? "
Yes. Most every MSD I messed with had 24 degrees built in from the factory. I'm not saying all are, just the ones I played with.
I'll also say that they(MSD) are extremely proud of their bushings. I mean I'm pretty sure a CNC lathe, or screw machine could spit out a couple thousand in a good day. 2,000 x $25 = $50,000 Not a bad days work.IMO
ssmonty
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:36 PM
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Yeah but who is gonna liquidate the merchandise.
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang16 View Post
Am I thinking right? I have a MSD distributor with mechanical advance that I'd like to limit. Knowing the total amount of advance built into the distributor, say 16 degrees, and I attach a cheap plastic protractor to the advance unit to get the arc of the unit, then limit the arc to say half of the advance travel (limited by a ground down screw edge) would that be 8 degrees of advance?
That would theoretically get you in the ballpark.

Make a timing tape if you don't have a dial back timing light. You are going to want to verify any such modifications- going by eye is not something you want to do w/the ignition timing, especially in that the total timing- if excessive- can harm the engine.

Click on image for instructions:



FWIW, besides the MSD bushings (28 degree, 25 degree, 21 degree and 18 degree), there are aftermarket 10 and 14 degree bushings, but damn are they proud of them!
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:35 AM
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Should have put this in the original post. What I'm trying to do is run as much initial advance as I can without locking it at 36 as I think 36 would be to much in my case with the 91 octane around here.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:46 AM
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Should have put this in the original post. What I'm trying to do is run as much initial advance as I can without locking it at 36 as I think 36 would be to much in my case with the 91 octane around here.
What camshaft? Auto transmission or manual?

engine compression ratio.?

Is this a blower motor? Details...
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:08 AM
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355 CI
11:1
Comp cams XR292R
Duration @ .050 254 intake 260 exhaust
Lift .582 .588
Weiand tunnel ram 2 x 750 Edelbrocks
Ported double hump 202/160
700R4/3500 stall
3.90:1 ford 9"
Race weight 3257
80% Street/ 20% strip car
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:11 AM
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Lock out the distributor Locked timing is not too much at idle for this motor.
it is just right. If the fuel octane is questionable, the problem will be at WOT, not at idle,

So set the timing conservative on crap gas 31 to 34deg BTDC.

Or get better gas.

@ 11:1 cr test the car with real deal 110 octane unleaded in the tank and see what you are missing.

May need to blend 50-50 or 30-70 as required to protect this 11:1cr motor.

You need a read deal 98 to 102 octane for a 11:1 motor.

Again the risk of detonation will all be at WOT not at idle.

Does this 355 have a dome on the piston?

If using vacuum advance too,,,be sure it is limited to a max of about 10deg and set the rate of vac advance conservativly.
A stock GM vac can will not be right at all. use ported vacuum.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-17-2013 at 08:20 AM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:36 AM
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Flat top pistons, no vacuum advance. Good gas is about 30 miles away. 55 gallon drum and pump time. Or, a case of toluene from Lowes? lol Guess I could set the timing for the 91 octane and advance it at the track with good gas. I drive to the track 85 or 130 mile depending on which one I go to.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:51 PM
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Lock the timing- it's a no-brained way of not actually doing the small amount of work required to actually correctly set up the ignition advance. Then you can brag you have the same timing setup as your B&S lawn mower. And w/luck, you'll be able to out run one, too- but I'm not betting on it outlasting one.

There are GOOD reasons for not using max power timing below 3000 rpm or so. Lock the timing at an arbitrary 36 degrees and you'll likely find out why, sooner or later. The risk of detonation is ANY TIME the engine is under a load!!!!!!!!!

Before you make a mistake, take the time to absorbe the info here. If there's anything that's unclear to you, just ask. This is nothing to be scared of- it only takes a bit of a learning curve (npi) and you'll have the best of both worlds.

Bottom line: ANYTIME AN ADVANCE CURVE CAN BE USED, IT SHOULD BE USED.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Lock the timing- it's a no-brained way of not actually doing the small amount of work required to actually correctly set up the ignition advance. Then you can brag you have the same timing setup as your B&S lawn mower. And w/luck, you'll be able to out run one, too- but I'm not betting on it outlasting one.

There are GOOD reasons for not using max power timing below 3000 rpm or so. Lock the timing at an arbitrary 36 degrees and you'll likely find out why, sooner or later. The risk of detonation is ANY TIME the engine is under a load!!!!!!!!!

Before you make a mistake, take the time to absorbe the info here. If there's anything that's unclear to you, just ask. This is nothing to be scared of- it only takes a bit of a learning curve (npi) and you'll have the best of both worlds.

Bottom line: ANYTIME AN ADVANCE CURVE CAN BE USED, IT SHOULD BE USED.
This is all BS

This is not a clock and this is not a B&S motor. The locked timing is not too much for this motor at all.
This is not a strip only set up. It is what this motor needs for timing.

On this motor anything less than full timing at idle is NOT ENOUGH.

Depending on vacuum advance and a quick rate timing curve for the required idle timing
Does not work in this auto trans application. The result is a inconsistant idle (cause the idle timing changes with rpm/vacuum and load.)

And poor throttle response as all the timing disappears as soon as you rug it. (vacuum advance drops.)

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-17-2013 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:09 PM
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If your 355 has a flat top piston and camel back heads how do you get a 11:1cr?
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:27 PM
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fb, the ONLY appeal your "one size fits all", no-brained "advice" has, is that it is easy for you to post.

To the OP, I say: It is up to YOU to sort through the BS. It is up to YOU to do your due diligence. I cannot do anything more than supply the info. The rest is up to you and to how much desire you have to do the job right.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:37 PM
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This is all BS

This is not a clock and this is not a B&S motor. The locked timing is not too much for this motor at all.
This is not a strip only set up. It is what this motor needs for timing.

On this motor anything less than full timing at idle is NOT ENOUGH.

Depending on vacuum advance and a quick rate timing curve for the required idle timing
Does not work in this auto trans application. The result is a inconsistant idle (cause the idle timing changes with rpm/vacuum and load.)

And poor throttle response as all the timing disappears as soon as you rug it. (vacuum advance drops.)


The Cylinder pressure is low below 3000 rpm and the EGR is high below 3000 rrpm.
This results in a slow fuel burn speed, REQUIRING MORE TIMING @ idle and below 3000 rpm.
This the REQUIRMENT for full locked out timing.

Unlike a manual trans car this big cammed motor is never under full load when you rug it.... the 3000 ++ stall ensures this.
This will not damage this motor. EVER.

What matters is the WOT timing and questionable street fuel octane.
And the timing above 3000 rpm @ WOT.
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