[Don Meyer]

I am about to install a TCI Must II IFS in my 48 GMC trk. I am using a series 1 power steering pump to which I want to change the flow control valve to one w/less flow. This is to reduce the squirminess of the T-Bird r&p. Doing a search I can only find a flow reduction valve for a series II pump. (the new one with the remote resevoir).
Any of you know where I can find this valve for the original type pump. I prefer not to use an adjustable valve like the one Heidts offers ,but one that screws into the pump.....it will have a 1" nut on the end of it.

Thanks Don

[techinspector1]

Don, I'm wondering why you guys who use the MII rack don't also use the MII pump that was designed to work with it. I know what kind of fabricator you are and it shouldn't be any big deal to fab brackets for it.

My last engine swap was a 302 Ford into a '83 Mitsubishi pickup. I made brackets to mount the Mitsu power steering pump on the 302. Voila! Bulletproof.

[bates_k]

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Don, I'm wondering why you guys who use the MII rack don't also use the MII pump that was designed to work with it. I know what kind of fabricator you are and it shouldn't be any big deal to fab brackets for it.

Hey, you know that kind of thinking ain't right, just 'cause
it makes sense and all...

Personally, I wouldn't use an M II front suspension on any
*TRUCK*...

K

[Chopt 48]

Well, Don wouldn't be doing it if he didn't think it would stand up.
The M II pieces are pretty tough with the exception of the crossmember.
Wheel bearings are the same as most Fords of any size and if you like
do a bit of comparison between the Mustang II upper ball joint and the upper ball joint for a 72 Mark IV.
They fit the trucks well and for those who can't weld there are bolt on crossmembers for the 47/54 Chev/ GMC trucks and Chev Cars.

Don, how about a couple of photos of the latest project?

I think RB's used to have the Valve you are looking for along with a few places. It used to be 30 something $$.

[studebaker46]

the reason for using this setup is u dont cut the frame as u would using gm clip. as for strength the way a 2000cc engine was mounted in the must and pintos there is more weight directly on the crossmember than the way u mount v8s into the hotrod just a thought from alot of research

[Ed ke6bnl]

I have a 84 tbird rack with a chevy pump and reduce the pressure with a $17 Borgosen kit that reduces the pressure to the pump my guess was from around 1000 to about 750 psi and it worked fine for me.

http://www.borgeson.com/ Ed ke6bnl

[bates_k]

Originally Posted by studebaker46

the reason for using this setup is u dont cut the frame as u would using gm clip. as for strength the way a 2000cc engine was mounted in the must and pintos there is more weight directly on the crossmember than the way u mount v8s into the hotrod just a thought from alot of research

You need to do more research, for example, the engine centerline in a
'48 GMC pickup is an inch or two behind the the kingpins, and weights
a hefty 615lbs.
A Pinto 2.0L weighs a svelt 286lbs, and the centerline of the engine is
even with the ball joint center line. Now even using the SBC, there is
going to be about 40% more weight in the front suspension than the 2.0L...

The reason you'll have this much weight on the front end, is because you
can't move the engine back far enough to offset the added weight...


K

[Don Meyer]

Bates K ......I think your figures perhaps are a little off. My truck w/a SBC has less wt. on the front end as the original Must II had w/a V-6. I generally use a clip on this application, but a Must II IFS is certainlly up to the job.

I have done approximately 15 of these kits & all have done very well thru out the yrs.

[Don Meyer]

Chopt 48.....here is a web site that has some pictures of my Brothers & my projects. More will be added in a few weeks. I am going from a frame w/a GM clip to an other frame w/a Must II IFS.
www.meyerbrosrods.com

[Don Meyer]

Techinspector1...I have not wanted to convert to a Ford PS pump because I have a new GM pump along with Allen Grove brackets, But your idea is a sure fix that I might end up doing. Thanks for the good advice.

[busterwivell]

I had a MII frontend in my 56 Studebaker wagon. Had a SBC in it, ran fine, never a problem. That was before aftermarket kits were available, it was cut out of a Mustang II. Some of the Mustang II's had 302's in them, same from end. I did upgrade to 11" brakes on mine.

[dinger]

One other way of cutting pressure is using a nylon washer where the pressure line goes into the pump, washer like the type they use in steam fittings, take the fitting in the pump out, use a nylon washer to back the fitting out of the pump about 1/16 of an inch, this will reduce the pressure on the valve in the body of the pump (the shaft will be shorter for this reason) . A little die grinding to make the washer fit will probably be needed and you will need to pull the rubber o-ring off to get the washer onto the shaft, replace afterward. I asked my 73 yr. old street rodder buddy about this yesterday, we did a pump for a lesson for me, fairly simple. He's been building rods since he was old enough to drive, a treasure of information to me. He said there was a way of cutting the spring but it was a lot of hit and miss, didn't want to show me how for that reason.