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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2011, 07:24 AM
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This is great information and was helpful to me as well. My problem ended up being more related to the actual assembly itself and where it mounts to the body/frame. While I was not able to get by top back to being 100% perfect, I was able to adjust it enough so that it's around 90%.

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Old 01-25-2012, 04:59 PM
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I assume that you checked for low fluid and leaks.

[QUOTE=75gmck25]The top on my 2005 Mustang convertible lifts unevenly, and its the passenger side that lags behind.

G'day Bruce,

It is not uncommon for one cylinder to fail before the other, but you should always replace them both at once, otherwise you may just chase the bad spot from one side to the other.
I assume that you checked for low fluid and leaks.
When you replace the cylinders, you will need to add fluid. Behind the rear backrest, you will find the motor/pump/reservoir. At the reservoir end is a rubber plug. With the top in the down position, remove the plug and fill the reservoir till the fluid runs out. Cycle the system several times and fill the reservoir again. Do this till the reservoir takes no more fluid.
A handy tool for filling is a turkey baster with a clear hose on the end.

Karl at
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:59 PM
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although it is 2012, i found this tsb that sounded like your issue

This is what TSB 05-24-6 is covering:

Some 2005/2006 Mustang Convertible vehicles may require a repair of the convertible top. Individual components should continue to be used where appropriate, but if required a new top assembly is now available.

Evaluate the convertible top concern and perform acost effective repair. A complete assembly is notnecessary for most repairs and should only be usedwhen the top frame has caused consequential damage to the top cover.

Veify the convertible top components that require replacement, and order the lowest level of components to repair the top. The following is a summary of the convertible top system concerns and the appropriate service action to correct the issue.
For complete system diagnosis and repairinformation, refer to the Mustang Workshop Manual,Section 501-18.

1.Top lifts unevenly side-to-side with no hydraulicsystem issues

2. Top latch dowel pins do not align with headercomponents latch bracket. (Figure 2)

3. Top #1 bow clearance to top well in the body is uneven.

4. Side window seals do not align properly to glass
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:47 PM
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In the beginning...

Okay, mates, I got the dreaded, "passenger side convertible top raises slower than the driver side," symptom tonight on my 2005 GT.

More significantly, I heard a solid, metallic, "click," from inside the body when it happened. Something was banjaxed and, being that spring is just around the corner, I wasn't going to have any of it.

Firstly (for those who don't read all the way through): if this is happening to you, STOP RAISING YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP. DO NOT RAISE OR LOWER IT UNTIL YOU CAN FIND 15 MINUTES TO FIX IT. If you continue to operate the top in this fashion, you will damage a cylinder and/or other parts that will result in your Ford dealer seeing $$$$ signs when you pull in (literally, $4000-$6000).

Now, get your top to be straight up. You might need to manually assist (put your hands on the top and help raise it).

Here's what I saw:

Remove the top plastic cover - it is held in place by clips, so gently give it a tug and it will come off. Then, remove the side plastic cover/speaker. Same clips, gentle tug - it doesn't need to come all the way off. It is okay to leave the back end attached to the rear seat.

The seat belt spool is attached to a silver bracket. This bracket popped out of its little hole on the left side of the body panel. The bracket has three fingers and, fittingly, the middle finger (which is recessed) needs to go into the hole on the body (it's about 1/4 inch). The goal is simple: put the middle finger in to the hole (yes, I know how that reads). You'll need to use something like the handle of a screwdriver to gently nudge it back into the hole.

Next: If that bracket popped out, it means the cylinder is floating freely. That's the only thing that could make it pop out, after all, since the proper tension on that bracket forces the bracket upwards, now downwards. Try raising/lowering your top - you'll see the cylinder wiggle around. It is not supposed to do that. It is supposed to be solidly fixed to the roof metal.

At the top of the cylinder (the cap, not at the top of the strut), you'll see the plastic cap with two holes, one on either side. These holes need to sit in a pair of pins. If you look near that cap, on the metal parts that make up the structure of the roof, you'll see one machined pin on the left side. If you look on the plastic panel you peeled back earlier, you'll see some of the foam is warn. So, where's the other pin?

Stick your hand down towards the seat - feel around. You just might find a metal bracket with a pin and, if you dig a bit more, you'll find the Torx bolt that came loose. Use a magnet or some little girl's girly hands if you can't get at it.

Back to the metal parts that make up the roof infrastructure near the cylinder cap: feel/look for a small hole - again, about 1/4 inch. It is threaded. Guess what goes in there? But not yet - wait for it.

You'll need to get the cylinder into position for the left pin. You might have to lower (as in, make it close) your roof slightly. This will raise the cylinder towards the pin. Once you get it there, seat the cylinder cap into the left pin. Then, position the bracket you pulled out of the body panel (positioning the pin will be easy now) and fasten the Torx bolt (this will be obvious when you get to this stage). Tighten that sucker down.

Now, try raising and lowering the top. It should operate correctly.

The whole operation takes about 15 minutes with a working, bright flashlight (I had a wonky flashlight, so it took me a wee bit longer). Sorry I didn't take any pictures. Like I said, this JUST happened to me tonight and it was my first time dealing with this set of mechanicals.

One thing: I did notice the fitting at the base of the cylinder became bent. Luckily, it wasn't so damaged that it didn't maintain pressure. Even operating a roof once or twice this way may cause a catostrophic failure in this fitting.


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Old 03-17-2012, 01:57 PM
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Adding a few comments.

First of all Thanks for the excellent information. I have a 2000 Vert and had the same problem. This site and this article came up when I googled the problem. My hardware seemed different then what was discribed in this article for the 05, but the procedures were mostly the same. I don't have small hands and also had no helper. I removed the seat cushion, seat back and the side wall. All were easy enough to do. I was then able to pick up the bracket assy and nut that had fallen off mine. Clearly the problem was loose hardware that fell off. I would never have gotten it reassembled without the added room of no side wall. All in all, it took me an hour. (I'm old and have bad bones). To get it reinstalled I had to remove to torx bolt that goes through the top of the strut. I did all the work with the top in the closed position. Once I was ready to reinstall the torx bolt at the top of the strut, I used a long stick to push the unlatched top upward until the strut, it's mount and the torx bolt lined up, screwed the torx in a few threds and then released the stick and let the top fall back down.
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:33 AM
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I had the same uneven raising issue, the driver side lagged far behind the passenger side when the top was raised.

However, what I found was that the shoulder bolt that connects the end of the hydraulic cylinder to the top mechanism was loose and about to fall out.

I removed this bolt, applied Loctite to the threads, and reinstalled. I also did the passenger side like this as well. See attached.
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