![]() |
|
|
|
||||
|
I am working on a 50 Chevy Sedan Delivery and I have located a complete front end assembly from a Mustang. I have a 350/350 setup ready to go into the beast and I am looking for some help on the front suspension. The system iI am looking at is a power setup and seems to be in good condition. Other than welding, can this cross member and attaching parts be put unger the delivery? If so any special suggestions on this swap? Are there any photos of this swap on the net? Thanks!!
|
|
|||||
|
willys36@aol.com has your answer;
-Another Ghost Post From The Past- ![]() [ February 22, 2003: Message edited by: KULTULZ ]</p> |
|
||||
|
It would seem this is very hot topic these days!! I have seem more about this subject lately. There is another forum that I use and they are not keen on the idea. It would appear that it will work and I think I will try it. My brother works at a NAPA store and it works great to get parts as needed. Wil I need to do much modification to the frame of the Delivery to do this install?
|
|
||||||
|
I've put stock x-members into two cars so far and they work great. In fact, I wouldn't consider after market x-members over a stock unit for a daily driver for safety reasons. If your car is just for rod runs and Friday night Sonic Drive-in cruising, go for the after market units.
|
|
||||
|
Most manufacturers will sell you welded-up crossmember kit for your application so you can install it and strip all the stock parts from your donor suspension and install them on your new crossmember. This eliminates the lack of availability of custom made components at the junkyard in Podunk Iowa where you have just bent a lower control arm.
I'd go for the crossmember, but leave the tubular a-frames and such to the boys who don't need to get home right now! |
|
||||
|
Well as it turns out the aftermaket crossmembers that are out there will do the trick. There are at least two out there that will bolt in and can be welded afterwards if desired. i think the best wat out is to r&r the stock parts onto the new crossmember. If I figured fabrication costs for the stck member it would get to at least half of the ourchase of an aftermarket member. thanks for all the insight!!
|
|
|||||
|
hey Phat, how DID that turn out?
funny, i haven't seen a thing posted over there about the "supposed" problem for a loooong time. btw, i DO have a heidts under my coupe (w/strut rods), washboard gravel roads? so what, there might be something down there i wanna see..... obviously i beat the kitty litter out of mine.. ain't broke yet! |
|
||||||
|
Hey Tom Well you know the way that board works if its bad they spread it all over the net.(moderator acted like he was the hero and got it takin care of,BS heidits are good people and would have takin care of the guy if he was not such and a-hole about it) Hedits had the car fixed for the guy but do you think he would show it? Not a chance.I even asked, That has handled very badly and was a good example of a bad install. Strut rods will work but they do bind a bit on full travel and dont hold and alignment as well as the tube ones do.(lots of them out there) The guys that bend them at weird angles are the ones i see break them or the frame tab. Its just a nice up grade if you do it with a tube all the way through the frame welded in 4 places and a 1 peice tube . You workin on the COE or?
|
|
||||||
|
Check out Street rod engineering out of Az. I bought my parts from the guy, 1/4 in. cross member, all parts are of a much heavier design than the rest of the dealers. Sreet rod engineering Prices are very competitive.
Dan
__________________
"When I was younger, I could remember anything, whether it had happened or not." - Mark Twain |
|
||||||
|
He does use a sqaure tube one peice design for the bottom but it has the corners of the crossmember welded on. Now this is just and opinion but its a bit weaker if its not one solid peice. I also think he needs to step up a few notches with his welds. Have seen some that were ...well lets just say not the best looking in the world.(he wont take it back if you dont like it either) Hey if you got one and it works for you good. I would stay with the top 3 i mentioned. Have used a lot of others and each has it little problems. Some bigger than others. I wish some of the other manufactures would copy his lower a-frame mounts...thats the way it should be done in my opinion. I just cant sell stuff that the welds look that narly. Just being honest,not a pissin contest.
|
|
|||||
|
work on the COE!?!?!
surely you jest! actually, i DID O.H. the qjet on it. the other one rattled itself to death,wouldn't start.... got this "late" 48(52) susburban i been playing with. g-body sub and a 500" caddy.... yep, kinda funny that there was NO pictures after the repairs on that heidts FE.. Dinger, i put a street rod eng. FE hub to hub kit in a 47 plymouth. i just as well of built my own they'll never see another dime from me.... did i contact them? why? can't return 'em.... oh well, i'll MAKE it work.. |
|
|||||
|
<a href="http://www.roddingroundtable.com/rides/members/frame.html" target="_blank">http://www.roddingroundtable.com/rides/members/frame.html</a>
try that for starters.... well, that ain't exactlt what i had in mind but go down to gallery 5 and hit "tomslik" [ February 26, 2003: Message edited by: tomslik ]</p> |
|
|
| Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|