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Old 03-24-2006, 09:31 PM
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Mustang II Front End

I have finally gave up on putting my 1946 Ford on a different frame. I have been advise by some locales in out club to use the Ford frame, but replace the old King Pin Front end with a Mustang II Front End and the rear end with a 8" Ford from a Maverick or Comet. 2 questions
1. Can anyone tell me where best price and place to order the Mustang II Front end ?

2 Does the Maverick and Comet both have 8" rear ends?

I have a Pontiac 350 with a Turbo 400 Trans. So I guess i will put the Munic 4 Speed up for sell. I decided that shifting went out for me after I passed, well at lest 55 or more.

Any coments on what I plan to do will be appreciated.
Parrot
jerryandfannie@wmconnect.com

Thanks for all comments or advice. No feeling can be hurt on this end since this is my first Rod to build.

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Old 03-24-2006, 10:33 PM
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1) I prefer the old straight axle myself........and have driven my 40 Ford coupe thousands of miles with one........and had another 40 Ford coupe with a Mustang II at the same time to compare it with.....I like the straight axle better.....

2) Both the Comet and Maverick are 8 inch rears.....

3) A 57 - 58 - 59 Ford car rear end is a better choice in my opinion......better selection of gear ratios, bigger brakes and more strength.....

Just my 2 cents......I am sure others ' have their 2 cents ' also....as it should be....

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Old 03-24-2006, 10:43 PM
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Since it is your first build I would keep it as simple as possible..those kingpin frontends are fine tho you will have to split the wishbone for that engine tranny combo..Most of what you will need is available from www.speedwaymotors.com even the kingpin kits..Measure up a Ford ranger pickup rear as I think one of those will go right under there springs and all. That will work fine for a cruiser type of car.

you will have lots to do to get it on the street so keeping it simple is the best bet..

Look thru all the journals and so some searches on the site and there is a world of info on these.

Sam
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Old 03-25-2006, 08:14 AM
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Installing a Mustang II IFS is a pretty simple job, providing you buy a name brand quality kit. There are a lot of people out there making knock-off kits and some are pretty bad with little or no installation instructions.

Go with Heidts, TCI or one of the other name brands and you won't have a problem. It may cost you a few extra bucks but trust me it will save time and effort in the long run. Just remember, do NOT eliminate the strut rods. Doing so can eventually result in failure of the crossmember in the lower "A" arm mounting area. If installed with the strut rods it will give you years of trouble free service.
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Old 03-25-2006, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline
Go with Heidts, TCI and you won't have a problem.
I agree with BOTH of the above.....I would keep it simple BUT if you are bound and determined to put a Pinto/Mustang II front end under the car..... ..go with TCI or a name brand...

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Old 03-25-2006, 07:17 PM
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Mustaang II Front End

Ok, great I appreciate all the replies. If I stay with the king ping front end, do I stay with the original or get a new one from one from a supplier like Total Performance. I don't want a drop axle and I assume I can get one with standard lift.
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Old 03-25-2006, 08:05 PM
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Just use the original axle and replace the kingpins and bushings and some new tie rod ends is all that you will need to do..Might as well clean and paint or powder coat the pieces while you have them out..Check your steering box while you are at it..

Sam
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Old 11-01-2007, 07:02 AM
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strut rods

O.K.,
I'm new and I'm confused. Do the strut rods come with the Heidt's set-up. If so why would you want eleminate them. I am going to put one in my '38 Pontiac with a 389 tri-power (weight could be a concern and I want every advantage) and on the Heidt website there is no mention of them. Please enlighten me.
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Old 11-01-2007, 07:33 AM
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re: strut rods

O.K.,
I may be old, but I am slow. Just re-visited Heidt's site and you must be talking about stabilizer/sway bars. (Why not just say that?) I will definately have em, along with anti-sieze lubricated grade 8 lower control arm bolts and, if there's room, radiused gussets welded to the stress riser corner points where the bottom cross member meets the frame attached members. Hope I don't void my warrenty!

Last edited by k.c.; 11-01-2007 at 07:39 AM.
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:16 AM
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Heidts do make a different lower a-arm,so that you don't have to run a strut rod,If you go with the stock mustang 11 you can't go with out it.It is very easy to put the right a-arm .Alot of the new mustang kits now don't have strut.(DO NOT TAKE IT OFF THE STOCK MUSTANG 11), Hope this helps,I'm sure if you call heidts they will help you,They have been doing this for sometime now.Speedway also sell's new strut rods with the urethane bushings,I had some on my car,And they was alot better then the stock ones.
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:22 AM
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Perhaps we should say Mustang II geometry front ends. You can get kits that actually have the "A" arms from a Mustang II that do require strut rods . You can also get kits that have tubular "A" arms that do not require strut rods.

Vince
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Perhaps we should say Mustang II geometry front ends. You can get kits that actually have the "A" arms from a Mustang II that do require strut rods . You can also get kits that have tubular "A" arms that do not require strut rods.

Vince
That why i put that heidts do make defferent a-arms!!!and to call heidts in to talk to them.

Last edited by NEW INTERIORS; 11-01-2007 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:54 AM
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I think I've got it now. Not really all that complicated. Thanks for the help guys.

Last edited by k.c.; 11-01-2007 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 11-01-2007, 06:37 PM
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if u stick with the beam axel be sure to put on a sway bar. helps at hiway speeds on my 41 back in the day!
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Old 11-01-2007, 07:22 PM
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mustang II front end

I was young and dumb. I took a front end from under a (76 I think) mustang and cut and notched it to fit in my 40 chevy. It had a sway bar front side to side, which I used. The stabilizers from lower a A frame I call them were to short ( they ran to straight up to suit me, so I cut them and leighten them, which work great, except the wheels (tires really) hit them if I turned real sharp. It drove great and aliened perfect. First alignment was at a ford dealer. They run strings down both side of the car rear to front, and every thing was perfectly square. If I had it to do again, I'd buy a bolt-en unit, even If I got my own spindles and etc for the unit ( lot cheaper if you can find and old stang or pinto. I also used chevy rotors and caliper and had to make an adapter for the caliper hook up. ( but I didn't need to worry about balancing the brake with a pressure regulator to make it stop straight. Check around, and find the best bet for you and your ability's. Just remember, aim, and stopping is the most important parts.
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