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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 01:11 PM
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Dropping the axle and a set of springs COULD BE all this Chevrolet needs ... it was a Hot Rod before ...

I would clean up and make it neat workmanship wise ... but I believe ... from the photos it has great potential to be really cool.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 01:13 PM
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From the length of the brake hub, I'd say it's old stuff. I cant see if it's got the non-self energizing brake anchors either. But it sure looks like my old 30 Desoto setup; I took my spindles off and they had a "centered" hole on the back of the spindle so you can chuck them in a lathe and machine them for modern hubs/brakes. Then get speedways "cross-steer tierod end" for the right side to run a Vega box?? Those old chev tapers might be huge, though.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 01:13 PM
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could some one send me the link to the axle i would need then and maybe the replace ment springs
thanks alot
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 01:15 PM
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with the weight of the drive train i dont think those springs could handle it, it will top out
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 01:19 PM
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with the weight of the drive train i dont think those springs could handle it
They were real strong back then to handle the nasty roads. It would take a SBC or SBF no problem...IF they are not pitted, cracked, bent, etc.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 01:26 PM
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how and if i can run shocks were would they go
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 01:36 PM
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Here's my old car. It has the same type of axle compared to that chevy. I took a few leafs out, cut down the snubber bumpers above the axle. Then I had a guy turn down the spindles to fit early Dodge Dart 4 piston disc brakes. I also used a cross steered 605 power steering box. 327 sbc w/ cast iron 4 speed for weight comparison.

I did not have the axle dropped, so it is a little high for todays looks.

I built the whole car with almost no experience back in the late 70s...also replaced the body wood with steel when I learned how to use a mig
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 01:38 PM
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here are some more pictures of the front, and one of the rear end
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 05:30 AM
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Looks like a 55-57 chevy rear? and the pic of the passenger rear tire makes it look like a good width for that car. I'd keep it, just make sure the perches are welded correctly. There are plenty of gear ratios & posi's available. I used traction "links" on my old rod, I had no wheel hop.

If you could find a local place to drop your front axle, I might go that way. (But, I still would want more modern tierod ends & steering link joints) If you need to pay shipping to & from a mailorder axle dropping shop, plus the cost of dropping it....you may be better off trying to get a bare 4-6" dropped tube w/weld-on perches. Call Speedway to see if they can sell just the axle without those "wrong" springs. Hopefully they have total-width specs so you can get your tires to fit inside the fenders.

I'd try to get that tube axle made to fit the early ford spindles only because there should be more aftermarket steering arms available to make it work with your car?

Steering set-up with a dropped twin leaf; You may have trouble getting a cross-steering link under the spring. So, maybe I'd do an early Mustang box with side drag link instead.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 12:12 PM
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that rear suspensiton is pretty ugly... would it be bad if i put a 4 link in it
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 01:10 PM
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that rear suspensiton is pretty ugly... would it be bad if i put a 4 link in it
Sure, that would work fine...I just thought you were looking for "cheapest way".
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 01:20 PM
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i am looking for the cheapest way but i am also wanting it to look good at the same time so.. and those springs are ugly.. how far on the ground wold a 6 inch drop put it or should i go 4
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 32 duce
i am looking for the cheapest way but i am also wanting it to look good at the same time so.. and those springs are ugly.. how far on the ground wold a 6 inch drop put it or should i go 4
If you zeed the front end of the frame enough the oil pan could be on the ground. The final drop depends on where the transverse springs intersects the frame. I used a 6" on my latest project without zeeing the frame and the oil pan is pretty close to the ground. I probably should have gone with a 4".
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 04:01 PM
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yah i want her to sit low but i want to be able to drive it to, with out hiting everything
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32 duce
yah i want her to sit low but i want to be able to drive it to, with out hiting everything
Also you are running front fenders, right? When I got my 29, a couple years ago, it only had 3 1/4 inches clearance and it hit in driveways and when I made tight turns the wheels hit the inside of the fenders.
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