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Old 06-03-2005, 03:20 AM
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Mustang II help

I'm hoping somebody can help me out with my problem. The 51 Chevy I am restoring was sold to me with the stock front suspension missing. Since I didn't have a reference point, I purchased RB's bolt-in crossmember and top hat so I wouldn't go wrong with location. Now I'm beginning to read bad things about RB's product quality.(i.e strut rods) Reading these posts tells me that Heidt's or TCI should be my best bets but taking into consideration my situation should I opt to go with another company? I believe TCI has a bolt-in crossmember.

I don't believe in shorting quality for a cheaper price, so I have no problem with switching for better quality. I just have to consider the "bolt-in" aspect.

AND, If the RB's components are ok to go with, can I mix and match components? for example using TCI's A-arms? or any other combinations to key in on weaknesses. Please help, I need to do it right the first time!

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Old 06-03-2005, 09:37 AM
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The biggest problem with a bolt in Mustang IFS, and I don't care who makes it, is the fact that it's a bolt in kit. That is the weakness IMHO. When it comes to strut rods there have been several discussions here about why you need to use them and how to properly mount them to the frame. Just do a search and you'll find plenty of info.

I have not heard that RB's Mustang II IFS was suspect as far as quality was concerned. However once it's bolted to the frame I would weld it in as well. Also box the bottom of the crossmember where the lower "a" arm bolts to the crossmember. This is a notorious weak point in all aftermarket Mustang II kits and has led to some failures when strut rods were eliminated.

Good luck.
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Old 06-03-2005, 11:25 PM's Avatar Moderator
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Centerline is correct. The main problem with all MII units comes @ the strut rods on the lower A-arms. DO NOT use strut rod eliminators, period. These things are not designed well enough to accommodate the huge forces @ that joint. Also, over design the strut rod rear mounts. DO NOT just weld the bracket to the frame. At least weld the bracket to a 3/8" plate with good gussets then bolt that to the frame w/ 4 grade 8 bolts. The frame material is just too thin to support the stress of a directly welded bracket. Best approach is to incorporate the stock MII strut rod sub- X-member like this.
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