Mustang II IFS Torque specifications
:( I am installing a chassis engineering Mustang II IFS kit in my 37 chevy sedan, and I haven't been able to locate the specifications for torquing all the bolts. There kit just said use the Ford specifications. Not real happy with the quality control of the parts they produce, but that is another discussion.
I tried my local Ford dealer (no help, they disposed of all their old manuals), local library for old Haines manuals ( the ones I found didn't cover Mustangs), and I spent two hours searching the internet with no luck.
I torqued the ball joints to 70 ft/lbs. Is this close, or do they need to be tighter? Does any one have specs. for the whole front end? I am a complete novice and this is my first attempt at building up a car from a complete tear down.
Marv, I installed a factory M/II front under my A coupe years back. I still have the pages I copied from an old shop manual back then. There are some torque specs in it but they may not all apply to your setup. I'll give you what's here.
Lower arm to crossmember- 95-110
upper arm to frame- 95-110
stabilizer bar to lower arm-15-18
ball joint to spindle(upper&lower) 75-90 (tighten to minimum and then tighten to nearest cotter pin slot)
strut to lower arm 40-60
stabilizer bar to frame 6-12
shock upper attachment 22-30
shock to lower arm 70-80
brake backing plate and cylinder assy. to spindle 20-35
strut to frame 70-80
support yoke cover to housing 15-20
pinion cover to gear housing 15-20
steering gear to crossmember 80-100
connecting rod end to spindle arm 35-47(torque to 35 and go to nearest hole)
I hope you'll find what you need in that list! :thumbup:
:) Hello badA31
Thanks for all the info. It looks like I was close, but need to tighten everything up a bit more. I am a bit unsure about the steering info. I assume the steering gear to crossmember refers to mounting the rack to the crossmember and the connecting rod end to spindle arm refers to the steering rod ball joint, but I don't understand the other two torque specifications. Ignorance on my part or maybe they don't apply to my setup. Care to educate me.
Probably the only things of concern to you would be the control arms, struts, shocks, and rack to crossmember. On the ball joints, I never even used torque. I just squeezed them down tight and backed off to the cotter key slot. Been on there 17 years now with noooo problems. That spec list was for a factory car with more parts than a hot rodder needs! I used a stock front end from a '73. About the only aftermarket setup around back then wasn't that good. The geometry was all off and people couldn't get an alignment. I'm sure they've improved a lot since then.
Using a torque wrench is probably an extreme rarity. Most everybody just sucked them up tight by feel with a socket handle, and then tightened to the next cotter hole.
The biggest falacy I have found is that lots of people believe that the rubber bushings inner metal sleeve should be pivoting on the bolt. The sleeve is there to prevent overcompression of the rubbers. All pivot action is in the rubber, not the sleeve turning.
Also be sure to torque the "rubber" bushings with the suspension at normal ride height, not extended. :thumbup:
Thanks for the tip about doing the work on the lower A-arm at normal ride height, makes sense, but I wouldn' have thought of it.
just to confirm
Guys I have a 95 Johnex cobra that uses parts of a Mustang II front Suspension (spindles and rack). Are you telling me that for all the connections between the upper and lower a-arms and the spindle that I should tighten them down until completly compresss the boot then back off to the nearest cotter pin hole in the nut? Also what is the correct torque for the front hubs on a Mustang II. I know once you torque down the castle nut on the spindle you should check run out and end play. Does anyone know the specs for rotor once the spindle nut is tightened. Thanks everyone
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