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Mustang II IFS - Washers on lower through-bolt?

2K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  SinistrV6 
#1 ·
Should there be a washer on BOTH sides of the bushings on the lower control arm? I think my RideTech arms only came with two (one under the bolt head and one under the nylok nut). I only ask because as I move the LCA up and down wiht my hand, it appears that the metal center of the bushing would eventually "eat" a hole through the crossmember?

Am I over thinking this?
 
#2 ·
Talked to Air Ride Technologies via chat service. They say it isn't required. Still doesn't seem right to me. :confused:
 
#3 ·
SinistrV6 said:
Talked to Air Ride Technologies via chat service. They say it isn't required. Still doesn't seem right to me. :confused:
They should know, But if i were you and it made me feel better and there was room for it i would just go ahead and put it in for myself. It's not going to hurt anything being there ex-specially if it's supposed to be ok without it. IMHO



Cole
 
#4 ·
I ran into the same thing with my TCI IFS. I added SS washers to solve a potential problem before it happened. They omitted them on the rear as well. My contention is that it is a wear surface, why have a problem for the price of a handful of 5/8 and 3/4 inch washers. The only possible problem is insufficient bolt threads being captured by the Nylocs - I had to change a couple bolts for longer.
 
#6 ·
aosborn said:
If I am understanding you correctly, the bushing inner sleeve is turning with the bushing in the control arm, correct?

If so, it should not, the sleeve should be tight between the mounting plates, and the bushing should rotate on the sleeve.

Andy
That's what it's doing. Are you saying that the sleeve should remain stationary? If I understand you, the sleeve would be forced by the throughbolt to "bite" into the crossmember (is that why the edge is serrated?)

Wouldn't the rotational force destroy the bushing in very short order if the sleeve were locked in place and the rubber spun around it?

I thought the whole control arm pivoted on the 5/8" dia. throughbolt (hence the multiple admonitions to apply anti-seize compound to the full length of the bolt).

Hmmmm....
 
#8 ·
aosborn,

Thanks for the info. All of the parts are new. When I tightened down on the throughbolt, the LCA was "frozen" it whatever position I had it in before tightening. I didn't put a lot of effort into moving it, but it didn't swing freely. Does that sound "normal" to you? I realize the weight of the car and road bumps will exert far more force on it than I did.

I'll try again after work today (if this storm is gone by then!)

Thanks again,
Richard
 
#11 ·
Makes sense. Since I'm still at a bare chassis weight, I may just have to take a shot-in-the-dark for now and adjust later.
 
#13 ·
I was leaning toward what you and Dave did. But....if NOT using them is correct then using washers would cause the serrated edge of the bushing to bite into the washer, causing the washer to rotate with with the bushing. Better than the bushing sleeve, but you still have metal-to-metal friction that way. I'm so confused....LOL.

BTW, I found a diagram on Heidt's website that showed a washer in place on ONE the inside face of one bushing but not the other. That makes it clear as mud!
 
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