Mustang II Kit Failure - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2003, 09:44 AM
bigbird's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Blasting Cabinet
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Tomah, Wisconsin
Age: 66
Posts: 215
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Smile

Thanks....great idea.

Any thoughts on torque? Since I haven't started this assembly yet, I'm not even sure if a torque setting is recommended anywhere.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #47 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2003, 09:50 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Hee is a generic chart of torque specs for various bolt grades and sizes. Should be fine for this application.

http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Te...olt_torque.pdf

Does the bottom through-bolt rotate in the tube or is it to be cranked down tight and serve only as stub shafts? I am not familiar with the X-member.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #48 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2003, 02:45 PM
bigbird's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Blasting Cabinet
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Tomah, Wisconsin
Age: 66
Posts: 215
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Got to plead ignorance on that one since I haven't even spread out the parts yet.... just got them late last week...but when I read this thread I got VERY concerned and had to ask some questions.

Thanks for the torque info.

Fred
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #49 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2003, 06:38 PM
pshooter's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: ga
Age: 51
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Good point about the torsional failure. If the bolt needed to rotate and was frozen, grade "48" wouldn't help. mvm
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #50 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2003, 08:52 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Weatherford Tx
Age: 73
Posts: 168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The bolt does not rotate
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #51 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2003, 08:59 PM
tgcustoms's Avatar
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bolt

At no poit should this bolt ever serve as a pivot point it just holds the control arm in place thats why there are serrations in the bushing sleeves they dig into the metal and keep the rotation in the rubber where it should be...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #52 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2003, 03:12 PM
Darkman270's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pensacola Florida
Age: 56
Posts: 38
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Larger bolt installation?????????

First let me say that I have learned a lot this afternoon reading this post. No more grade 5 for me. I too was lead down the fairy tale that grade 5 had a higher shear load than grade 8. Thank you for enlightening me.

My question I am planning on using the factory Ford lower control arm and would like to use the 5/8" bolt but does Fatman have bushing for the factory piece that has a larger id bushing? I am planning on using the factory strut rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #53 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2003, 07:42 PM
Member
 

Last journal entry: JB's 37 Pickup
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Smoky Mountains
Age: 76
Posts: 2,358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Darkman, if you are using the factory lower control arm and strut rod, then you are very safe with the factory bolt. The strut rod is designed to absorb the bulk of the shear load. Those of us running tubular lower control arms and no strut rods need to be very concerned about shear loads.

Trees
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #54 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2003, 05:34 PM
Darkman270's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pensacola Florida
Age: 56
Posts: 38
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That is what I'm figuring too but I'm getting a little paranoid and figured a bigger bolt would be better if it fit. LOL
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #55 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2003, 05:16 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: western nc
Posts: 39
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My experience with Fatman.

I bought a Gibbons torsion bar kit that was junk. I could not get a good ride. I was at the f100 nationals in pigeon forge and mentioned it to Fatman. He was demo ing his front ends. Low and behold, in about an hour he came out to my truck and .....

for an hour and half he laid under my truck personally trying to help me with a gibbons front end . I had never talked or met the man before then. I offered to pay him and he would not take any money.......

Would you like to know what my opinion of him is???????

Jimmy in nc

P.S. Gibbons showed up the next year at the f100 nationals with their f100 56 truck. It had a VOLARE FRONT END UNDER IT.

NO Joke.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #56 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2003, 01:45 PM
PrimeMover's Avatar
Sittin' on top of the world...
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Age: 63
Posts: 467
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well I'm a little late chiming in here, with my two-bits worth. Lots of interesting "opinions" and experiences here. I've got a Heidt's A-arm set up in the 53, so I figured I'd just lay back and see if anyone came up with any other possible reasons, other then the age-old "flawed design idea" or sub-standard or wrong grade of bolts being used.

I don't know about Fatman's kits but I DO know a little about Heidt's. If the strut eliminator "kit" Fatman offers is similar to Heidt's here's what I think might have happened..

First off, Heidt provides grade five bolts gussets and tubular extensions that you have to weld in yourself. The instructions state that to achieve proper kit bolt hole alignment, a stack of washers needs to be used in conjunction with the lower a frame bolt so it can be used to bolt and hold everything in place while it is welded. I'm no metallurgist either but I figure, once enough heat has been applied to this assembly to marry everything up properly, you might as well scrap the lower control arm bolt - it's been heated stretched and relieved. Especially if the threaded end of the bolt was temporarily installed where all the heat was being generated.

I went with new lower A-frame bolts for this reason alone - it's cheap insurance.

Last edited by PrimeMover; 10-20-2003 at 02:01 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #57 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2003, 02:15 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Prime, you are absolutely correct that the strenght of that bolt is compromised if it reaches 'straw' colored temperature. NEVER reuse bolts that have been used in welding mock-up.

You guys aren't giving me a very good impression of the aftermarket X-member vendors with all these horror stories you are telling! I'll stick w/ my stock Ford MII units. Maybe not quite as pretty but at least they have a better than average chance of staying und the car for a few years!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #58 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2003, 04:50 PM
PrimeMover's Avatar
Sittin' on top of the world...
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Age: 63
Posts: 467
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: Bolt

Quote:
Originally posted by tgcustoms
At no point should this bolt ever serve as a pivot point it just holds the control arm in place thats why there are serrations in the bushing sleeves they dig into the metal and keep the rotation in the rubber where it should be...
What he said! This is why, the inner lower A-arm through-bolt and the upper A -arm bushing retainer bolts should be left loose until the car rests at normal ride hight under the full weight of the car. If tightened with the suspension hanging in the air, both the upper and lower bushings will last probably a year at best. This is not limited to MII suspension, this is true with most any rubber-bushed front end.

PrimeMover
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #59 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2003, 08:22 AM
Maverick's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Little Rock, Ar
Age: 43
Posts: 339
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have noticed here lately that the companies that make and sell the MII kits (Heit's, Fat man, Ect) aren't advertising them as much in the various rags. Instead they are pushing their sub-frame kits. Makes you wonder!

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #60 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2003, 08:44 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by Maverick
I have noticed here lately that the companies that make and sell the MII kits (Heit's, Fat man, Ect) aren't advertising them as much in the various rags. Instead they are pushing their sub-frame kits. Makes you wonder!


$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.