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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2005, 10:59 PM
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Wow!! I just ordered a catalog from Fatmans tonight for my 52 International L-110 but I think I'll start looking for another way. Maybe a Granada or LTD front grafted to my frame!!

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2005, 12:36 PM
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Dont be too scared of stang II stuff. Cut a bunch of the overweight stuff out becuse its just not very good...cheap yes good NO. If your not close enough to him to give him a yell he wont help.His stuff i some of the worst on the market. Heidts is a close second.
All need some work before they are installed as they are just mass produced stuff that 10 out of 50 kits ever get used. Like a lot of rod parts. Most never every see the road.
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2005, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phat
Dont be too scared of stang II stuff. Cut a bunch of the overweight stuff out becuse its just not very good...cheap yes good NO. If your not close enough to him to give him a yell he wont help.His stuff i some of the worst on the market. Heidts is a close second.
All need some work before they are installed as they are just mass produced stuff that 10 out of 50 kits ever get used. Like a lot of rod parts. Most never every see the road.
I beg to differ. Heidts has the best quality kits I've ever seen. Neither of the installations I have done required any modification to the Heidts parts whatsoever and they fit perfectly. I do agree that the chubby guy's stuff is substandard though.
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2005, 08:50 PM
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Again, I'm sure the fit and finish of Heidt's is great. He sells a bunch. My reservation comes in the several photos I have seen of fatigue cracks in his X-member in applications using strut rod eliminators leading to catastrophic failure. I have never heard of or seen a failed stocker so that is the way I go. If you decide to go with the Heidt's please use the strut rods or, if you must go with eliminators, weld in a filler plate @ each lower A-arm as I have shown before.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2005, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by willys36@aol.com
Again, I'm sure the fit and finish of Heidt's is great. He sells a bunch. My reservation comes in the several photos I have seen of fatigue cracks in his X-member in applications using strut rod eliminators leading to catastrophic failure. I have never heard of or seen a failed stocker so that is the way I go. If you decide to go with the Heidt's please use the strut rods or, if you must go with eliminators, weld in a filler plate @ each lower A-arm as I have shown before.
No argument there. I completely agree that eliminating the strut rods in an aftermarket Mustang II kit (no matter who the manufacturer is) is inadvisable.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2005, 09:46 PM
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I really dont want to do this in public but garys stuff is pretty bad. You dont cut the bottom tube for the lower aframe in 2 than drill a small hole for the lower bolt.Now tack weld a spacer were a stock stang II a-frame goes. Strut rods bind plain and simply. Centerline i have had this problem with you all along(when you started being a moderator for something that you have done twice that bothered me) i have done 50+(maybe more) stang II of all kinds some TCI stuff many clips and tons of race stuff that wins at much tougher extreams than a 100 ,000 mile streetrod.(no i dont want your job LOL)
I also suggest you take a welding coarse as your work is why anything would fail. You plain and simply dont know what your talking about in this subject and that is a shame, but its your deal so goodbye.
Please before you delete this show use how you welded yours into your truck......if i was MVD you would never drive that thing.
Strut rods were never any good nor should they ever be under anything. 4inch of travel they bind plain and simple.
I dont think you can call this flaming as you ripped me a new one for not using SPEEL CHECK and i wont use ti. LOL Take the challange post your welding on your truck!!! Later buddy
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2005, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phat
I really dont want to do this in public but garys stuff is pretty bad. You dont cut the bottom tube for the lower aframe in 2 than drill a small hole for the lower bolt.Now tack weld a spacer were a stock stang II a-frame goes. Strut rods bind plain and simply. Centerline i have had this problem with you all along(when you started being a moderator for something that you have done twice that bothered me) i have done 50+(maybe more) stang II of all kinds some TCI stuff many clips and tons of race stuff that wins at much tougher extreams than a 100 ,000 mile streetrod.(no i dont want your job LOL)
I also suggest you take a welding coarse as your work is why anything would fail. You plain and simply dont know what your talking about in this subject and that is a shame, but its your deal so goodbye.
Please before you delete this show use how you welded yours into your truck......if i was MVD you would never drive that thing.
Strut rods were never any good nor should they ever be under anything. 4inch of travel they bind plain and simple.
I dont think you can call this flaming as you ripped me a new one for not using SPEEL CHECK and i wont use ti. LOL Take the challange post your welding on your truck!!! Later buddy

Anyone know what he just said??
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2005, 10:41 AM
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Lighten up Francis! Maybe it's a good thing you're not a "MVD", what ever that is. I did a lot of research on this board and in person with some VERY knowledgable people and they all said the same thing....use the strut rods....period. Even had one person take me out and demonstrate why. I am not an expert, that is why I consult those who are and I don't generally just ask one person. You obviously don't like Centerline's welding either. I would put a lot of money down that his welding is a heck of alot better than your spelling and grammar skills. I'm not trying to start a big fight here, but you seem to have some issues with some people that go beyond strut rods. For what it's worth.

Barry
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2005, 09:51 PM
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Well, we'll see how it goes because I plan to put a Fatman's under my 50 Hudson Coupe.......hope I haven't made a bad decision, but the money's been spent! :-)

Jay
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2005, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phat
I really dont want to do this in public but garys stuff is pretty bad. You dont cut the bottom tube for the lower aframe in 2 than drill a small hole for the lower bolt.Now tack weld a spacer were a stock stang II a-frame goes. Strut rods bind plain and simply. Centerline i have had this problem with you all along(when you started being a moderator for something that you have done twice that bothered me) i have done 50+(maybe more) stang II of all kinds some TCI stuff many clips and tons of race stuff that wins at much tougher extreams than a 100 ,000 mile streetrod.(no i dont want your job LOL)
I also suggest you take a welding coarse as your work is why anything would fail. You plain and simply dont know what your talking about in this subject and that is a shame, but its your deal so goodbye.
Please before you delete this show use how you welded yours into your truck......if i was MVD you would never drive that thing.
Strut rods were never any good nor should they ever be under anything. 4inch of travel they bind plain and simple.
I dont think you can call this flaming as you ripped me a new one for not using SPEEL CHECK and i wont use ti. LOL Take the challange post your welding on your truck!!! Later buddy
The entire build of my truck is available for view by anyone who cares to visit my web site. If the fact that I don't grind my welds when they're in an area that's not going to be seen bothers you that much, all I can say is that's just to damn bad, get over it.

When someone visits my site they can easily see that anyone who wants to can build a street rod from the ground up in their home garage, and they don't need expensive equipment like TIG welders to do it. A simple flux core wire welder is all that is required. One other thing, any idiot knows that flux core wire welds aren't pretty to begin and the only way to make them look good is to grind them. I'm terribly sorry that my welding isn't up to your standards, but I seriously doubt anyone's welding is as good as yours, at least in your mind anyway.

When it comes to strut rods, I most humbly apologize for my opinion on the subject, I didn't realize that you know so much more than all the engineers at Ford who designed the Mustang II suspension. It must be really tough being omnipotent. (If you don't know what that word means maybe you should look it up, providing you can spell a word that has more than four letters in it.)

It also seems very interesting to me that you, with apparently hundreds of years experience installing Mustang II IFS systems, seem to have problems with Heidts kits and someone like me, who has no business even breathing the same air as someone as great as you, seems to have no problems with the installation of these kits at all. Kind of makes you wonder about that, doesn't it.

One last thing, if you want my job as moderator you are more than welcome to it. However, I must warn you that it comes with the burden of putting up with any number of smart a$$es who think they are better than other people. Unfortunately most people of that caliber have problems expressing themselves and can't deal with someone who has an opposing opinion. When a disagreement does arise it generally degenerates very quickly to a personal attack. This usually happens because these individuals have no weapons in their limited vocabularies to adequately respond when challenged, therefore the easiest route is to attempt to degrade the other person. But you already know all this, don't you. Being God's gift to the automotive hobbyist must be a pretty tough job.

Acting as a moderator is a thankless job and we are all volunteers. It doesn't mean we know more than everyone else, we just do our best to assist Jon in keeping the site working properly and occasionally we have to weed out undesirables. So as far as I'm concerned step up to the plate, or do everyone a favor and crawl back in the hole you came out of.

By the way, consider this a warning.... I know you have downloaded pictures from my site in the past and have posted them on other forums. I must warn you that everything on my web site is copyrighted and I will not hesitate to contact the forum administrators and have the pictures deleted from other sites if you do this in the future. Copyright infringement is a crime by the way. But you knew that.... you know everything.

Last edited by Centerline; 10-13-2005 at 10:47 AM.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 11:38 PM
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Simply just looking at it, it seems obvious to me that the strut rod in tension is much much stronger than any type of strut rod elimation system.

Any other pluses or minuses to the strut system pales in comparison to strength.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2005, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
Simply just looking at it, it seems obvious to me that the strut rod in tension is much much stronger than any type of strut rod elimation system.

Any other pluses or minuses to the strut system pales in comparison to strength.

I've been following this post for a long time and have kept my $.02 to myself. But I would have to agree with you. I'm not an enginner nor have I installed a MII system. I think though I'm some what with it though. When you look at any LCA on any car, it attaches at 2 seperate and distint locations along the frame rail. This forms a nice, wide base that IMO, would resist deflection, ect. On most of these kit that do away with the strut, it leaves just the cross memeber to handle all of the twisting loads. The cross memeber looks to be about 3". I think when Ford designed this system, they would have done away with the strut from both a manufacturing and finacial reasons...but they didn't. Personally, the only way I'd install a MII system is if it was exactly the way Ford designed it since they have vast engineering and financial sources at their disposal and feel that it's safe for what ever their customers are going to throw at it. I've learned a long time ago not to re-engineer something that someone has already spent a lot of time and money on because it usually come back to bite you in the ***.
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2005, 06:21 PM
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You know, I worked as a mechanic at a Ford dealership during the late 70's. Every time a Pinto pulled up to the service door, the service manager would grab the fire extinguisher.

I realize Ford spends a lot of money on engineering, but that doesn't make them infallible.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2005, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsdad
You know, I worked as a mechanic at a Ford dealership during the late 70's. Every time a Pinto pulled up to the service door, the service manager would grab the fire extinguisher.

I realize Ford spends a lot of money on engineering, but that doesn't make them infallible.
I agree. Just like the GM engineers that put pickup fuel tanks on the outside of the frame rails. Either one Pinto or pickup gets hit in the vulnerable area and Kaboom.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2005, 07:19 PM
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OK fellows..........and you know who you are......

No bad mouthing each other or their skills or lack of...in your opinion.

You both have a history with each other......and both are very opinionated..... ..I am too....on some things...

I would not put a Pinto/Mustang II under anything that weighs over 3000 lbs.
But that's me...

Heidit's, the Chubby one and others ALL have had failures....some may have been caused by the kits and some by the installer. Some because the vehicles was too heavy......

I do agree whole heartily that only a fraction of these " kits " even make the highway or any mileage to amount to anything....


DEUCE ........the Moderator...
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