Mustang ii Suspension - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2003, 04:36 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post Mustang ii Suspension

Hello,
I have a 1941 ford club coupe that I am going to rod. I am working on the front suspension or at least looking at it. I bought a front suspension and cross member out of a 1978 mustang II. It is not wide enough to go around my frame and plus I dont want to do any serious modification to get it in there. When I say serious I mean altering the 41s frame in a way that I think will weeken it. I have been looking at cross member kits and have found that they come in many prices and from many places. My main question is who is best to buy this from. I also want to know if I can use the hardware that is on the 1978 MII suspension. I want to end up with a quality front suspension while keeping price in mind. I am new to this so please bear with me. I want a weld in solution. I was also wondering if mig welding is sufficent in this application or do you need an arc welder.
Thanks

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2003, 10:39 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,388
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

I sent you a couple of tech articles on installing stock MII x-members on old frames. Very easy to do and safe. Also, do a search on the topic on this board. It has been covered in GREAT depth in several threads.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2003, 02:39 PM
Member
 

Last journal entry: JB's 37 Pickup
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Smoky Mountains
Age: 76
Posts: 2,358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Post

41, I have done just what you are attempting and will tell you it can be done safely, but you need to be pretty good. You do have to do some major cutting to the 41 rame to get the origional crossmember in. I basically built what I needed, tacked it in and then cut out the portion that had to be trimmed out and then finished welding it up. This let the Mustang II crossmember fit right up in there and weld right up. I used some 3/8" plate which was over kill but better safe than sorry. This project was ongoing at the same time I was installing a Fatmans kit in a 36 Ford coupe and I kept asking my self why not kit the 41, but the owner did not want to shell out the bucks in one fell swoop. He really did not save much!!

Trees
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2003, 04:40 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Trees,

It sounds like from your experience that I should by a cross member that will fit correctly. I don't want a sloppy job and I also dont want to weaken the frame. I have been doing some measuring and see that it is going to take some serious cutting to get the original cross member in there.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2003, 07:24 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,388
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

Here is a stock x-member in a Willys frame. Can be done very cleanly with a little thought and effort.



[ June 07, 2003: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]</p>
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2003, 06:01 PM
Member
 

Last journal entry: JB's 37 Pickup
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Smoky Mountains
Age: 76
Posts: 2,358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Post

Wyllis, with you talent and experience, you can make a silk purse out of a sows ear. Us commoners have a little harder time just killing the hog!!! 41, the MII front end fits under the 35-40 Ford frames like it was designed for it, and other vintage 30s cars as well. The 41-48 Ford frames are 2.75 "wider, thus the need for trimming it out. It is more costly to go with a kit, but I highly recommend that route.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2003, 06:02 AM
EBlack36's Avatar
Rebuilt Excitment
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lansing, Ks
Age: 62
Posts: 595
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I used a stock MII in my 36 pontiac, what I did is box the frame and then cut a notch into the frame for the unit to slide up into the frame. Then I welded it solid. It has been in the car since 1987 and I check it a couple of times each year and I have never needed to reweld or modify anything since then other than adding sway bars a few years ago from chassis enginnering in Iowa. Over the years I have driven the car about 40,000 miles.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2003, 07:32 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,388
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by EBlack36
I used a stock MII in my 36 pontiac, what I did is box the frame and then cut a notch into the frame for the unit to slide up into the frame. Then I welded it solid. It has been in the car since 1987 and I check it a couple of times each year and I have never needed to reweld or modify anything since then other than adding sway bars a few years ago from chassis enginnering in Iowa. Over the years I have driven the car about 40,000 miles.
In addition to the Willys chassis in the photo above, I did the exact same thing as EBlack on my '36 Pontiac sedan. There are some pictures of the finished, powder coated chassis on my photo album.

EBlack; that Pontiac frame is some strong piece of work isn't it? Double walled all over the place and an X-member that is stouter than most frame's main rails. I notched my outer frame rail but didn't need to touch the inner frame rail on each side. Had to reshape the metal on the MII just a little (heat and pound out the vertical wall) so it would slide up into the notch but it worked great and I maintained the integrity of that inner frame. Is that how you didi it?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2003, 08:56 AM
EBlack36's Avatar
Rebuilt Excitment
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lansing, Ks
Age: 62
Posts: 595
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Willys, I really like the pontiac, so much in fact about a year or so ago I bought a coupe to go along with it and am just starting to collect parts now. Signiture models came out with a 36 in die cast this year, mine came in yesterday and the quality was very good.
What I did is box the frame back to the x member and then cut my notch out of both the inter and outer rails, but after I did it I seen that you did not need to cut the inner one. It has worked good for me all of these years. My wife even likes to drive the car, in fact she is driving it to a show on Saurday and I am taking the XR7.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2003, 06:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for everyones input. Would you guys use the stock cross member out of the mustang II or would you buy a kit from a reputable company? If so what company and would you buy a hub to hub or just the cross member kit? I am new to this so I might ask questions that may have already been answered on the forum. I have searched in the forum already so I hope that doesnt happen. Does anyone know where I can get some really detailed information on the setup of the front end so I have a good feeling when I go to weld it in. I would like to do it right the 1st time. I hope!!!

Thanks again for all your help....

Mike
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2003, 10:32 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane, Washington
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
OK Guys. Here is the deal on putting a Mustang II under the 41 Ford. This model was kind of an odd one. The front sheet metal is much narrower than a 42-48 but the frame is the same. This causes front tire interference to the fender when turning. The 42-48 crossmember from Heidts, TCI or other manufacturer will fit fine but I wouldn't try to use the stock a-arms. We recently installed a TCI kit under a 41 woody and we ended up getting a set of 5/8" narrower a-arms and using 15x6 wheels with a 3 5/8 backspace with 195 60R15 tires. This allowed the car to sit low and still steer with out hitting the fenders. I guess if you don't put it in the weeds you may get by with the stock a-arms.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2003, 06:34 AM
Member
 

Last journal entry: JB's 37 Pickup
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Smoky Mountains
Age: 76
Posts: 2,358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Ibuildum, interesting on how things work out with different builders. Our 41 with origionsl crossmember welded in has no tire clearance problems on stock fenders etc. We used Monte Carlo rotors and calipers, 6X15 rims with 4" backspace, and 205X70R15.. 41 Coupe, sounds like you are willing to spend the bucks to get the best set up. Going hub to hub is a way of getting all new parts that are matched to give you thousands of miles trouble free service. Piecemealing with used parts is initially cheaper, but creates more spendiing and tinkering down the road. There are many good kits out there and you need to do your own research to determine which you want. I stay away from Heidts for two personal reasons: I think they are way out of line on their pricing, and they tend to be too low for a vehicle that you want to drive. All of the kits I have installed had good installation instructions, and if you can weld good enough, you can measure and mark good enough to do the job easily enough. You get every thing as close as you can and the built in alingment adjustments will take care of the rest/

Trees
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2003, 07:38 AM
New Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane, Washington
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Trees, The wheels that you used helped the width problem. most 15x6 wheels can have a max backspace of 3 1/2" so you gained a half an inch on each side that way. I agree that Heidts is over priced. I am a dealer for them and TCI. I discount the TCI front end by $200 and can sell them for $1395 complete with stock or 2" drop spindles, 11" GM brakes, new manual rack and pinion, new powder coated springs, New gas shocks, stock width or 5/8 narrower tubular a-arms and a weld-in crossmember for moist Fords or Chevrolets. TCI also pays the shipping on complete front ends so that probably saves a hundred bucks or so.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2003, 07:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ibuildm it sounds like you may have what I need. Do you have a Internet store? Does the TCI version come with good instructions on how to set the suspension up before welding in place? Do you sell more of them with the narrow A-arms? Since I have a 41 I don't want clearance problems to be an issue. I want the car to have a nice stance but I do want it to be drivable. The budget is always a consideration but can see the dollars adding up if you do this piece meal. I don't want to cut corners and then regret it later.

Thanks,
Mike
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2003, 08:12 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane, Washington
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mike,
I don't have a internet store but I own Tim's Hot Rods in Spokane, Wa. We build cars and sell parts. We are a dealer for all the major parts manufacturers. E-mail me at ibuildm@yahoo.com. I will give you all the prices if you need other parts for the rest of the ch****is.
Thanks,
Tim
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.