[General Martok]

I love the color on the back part.

suggestion that may help I have a set of laser levels with a 20+foot

dot with cross hatch,I use them for beam to beam level.

I can set them level on the floor and take very accurate measurements with in 1/8 easy beyond 20ft to much diffusion of the laser light.

Your frame looks very ridged whats the mule that your going to put in.

[azteca48]

Originally Posted by matts37chev

i am not sure i understand whats going on here
in the second pic - is the crossmember going to be where it is shown?
or will you cut it on the lines drawn with the marker?


in the pic with the tape, are you planning on cutting the frame off, at the top of the tape line?

by the way, where in wa are you

Yes, the crossmember is (according to the instructions) where it is going to be. The lines on crossmember are just for reference at first I wasn't how far down I needed to cut. Yes, the top of the tape line is where I would need to cut for clearance. I need to be about 9" to the top of the hat from the center of the lower a-arm.

I live in Wapato just south of Yakima.

[azteca48]

Originally Posted by General Martok

I love the color on the back part.

suggestion that may help I have a set of laser levels with a 20+foot

dot with cross hatch,I use them for beam to beam level.

I can set them level on the floor and take very accurate measurements with in 1/8 easy beyond 20ft to much diffusion of the laser light.

Your frame looks very ridged whats the mule that your going to put in.

Thanks, well the plan is to drop a 350 small block. As they say this is going to be a true backyard build so far I've done all the work from body work to paint after the suspension & the engine I will start the upholstery the plan to is to do every thing

[matts37chev]

I think I would take off the dropped spindles and move the crossmember up
that way you would not have to cut so much off of the top for the upper pieces

[azteca48]

Originally Posted by matts37chev

I think I would take off the dropped spindles and move the crossmember up
that way you would not have to cut so much off of the top for the upper pieces

Thanks for the tip. Are you heading to the Portland swap meet next month?

[matts37chev]

i think so

[azteca48]

Just some pictures of some progress I have made. I started it last August.

[azteca48]

After a lot of homework I found some pictures that show exactly what I'm trying to do. I made some box plates out of angled steel for the bottom. Now the crossmember will have something to weld to. I'm also going with stock spindles instead of the 2" dropped ones I had. I still have to cut and box the top for the upper arms.

[enjenjo]

I have done several Mustang installs on that era Mopar, looks like you are on the right track.

[azteca48]

Getting closer I have the top hats fitted & ready to weld.

[Anamayo]

Very good job Azteca, my name is Mariano and I'm from Argentina. I'm trying to adapt the front suspension of a Chevy (there is the nova), in a Ford 38 standard and your progress give me lots of ideas. thanks

[azteca48]

Glad I could help Mariano. I spent a lot of time trying to figure this out. I will keep posting pictures as I complete this.

[azteca48]

Here's some more pictures

[azteca48]

here is some updates on my build.

[timothale]

My son has a 36 Ply coupe, I have 4 SBC in the shop and now he wants to install Mopar power. We have a couple stock MII suspensions, He has looked at a couple Mopars with M II suspensions,
For good instructions go the the Welder Series Site, they have excellent instructions They make weld it yourself parts, M II included and show how to install pieces in about any car proper fitting, alignment, etc.