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Old 06-25-2006, 12:14 PM
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Mustang ll susp for 53 Chev Sedan

I see that Chassis Eng Inc. offers a bolt in Mustang ll front end for my car, as I don't have the skills to weld in a front end and as my bolt in front end is now 53 years old (no problems) this sounds like a match for me. Has anybody tried this unit and how was the assembly, fit and finish of the product, and how has it stood up in use.
I read the comments in the vendor page and the one on the 40 Chev sounded great.
Let me know good or bad remarks.
Thanks

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Old 06-25-2006, 05:27 PM
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I went with TCI for my MII. But I did buy the CE rear springs kit for my 41. Top quality stuff. If it is an indication of their stuff, you won't be disappointed.
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Old 06-26-2006, 12:34 AM
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MII from Chassis Engineering

I just put their MII front end set up in my 39 Chevy and I could not believe how easy it went in. The instructions are not very detailed but the folks there will help you out and answer any questions you have. I do not weld and have never installed a front suspention into a car before. A bit of advise, read the instructions several times before you start. Thoroughly clean everything before you start and measure 3 times and write down the measurements each time. Talk with people before you start and I recommend that you get everything from 1 vendor so that you don't have to worry about any blame games. Get the big brakes, and 2" dropped spindles if you want it really low. This ensures that your lower control arms will be level and you can have it really low if you want but have plenty of travel. Last but not least, call them if you have any questions, they really were patient with me. I hope this helps.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:43 AM
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Appreciate the info on the springs from Redsdad as I will be changing springs in the future.
As to the install info from michaelbc this is great as I am certain to go with the Chassis Eng unit and armed with good advise before tear down will save making mistakes.
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Old 06-28-2006, 11:08 AM
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Likewise, I have a bolt-in MII in my 39 Chev with CE rear springs and mounts. The installation was trouble-free and the results were astonishing. The CE stuff is top shelf and not that expensive. I have had my 39 to 130mph, and the handling is tight and responsive. Ride stance is excellent as well.

George
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:39 PM
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I appreciate the info. On the vendor web site the unit offered has adjustable spring pods which provide 2 1/2" drop so dropped spindles don't seem necessary, did your setup come with the adjustable pods?
I'm waiting for the catalog from CE to see what options are available so I can order all the good parts.
Incidentally your 39 will easily out run my 53, another example of age beating youth.
thanks,
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:31 PM
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The bolt in MII setups work excellent on 53-54 Chevys. I helped a guy do a bolt-in but I went for the Heidt's weld in kit on my 53 hardtop because I'm all set up to do it that way and I never figured on ever pulling it back out again. There is some stuff, like the old motor mount pedistals, you'll have to strip off the frame rails but it really is a piece of cake to do. Should be able to do it in a weekend, once you get the front clip off.
http://hotrodders.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/2160

What part of Orygun you from?
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:28 PM
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Mii

George, I went with a 300# spring rate but if I had it to do over again, I think I would have used 275# for a softer ride. I would be a bit concerned about going 130 mph though. Wasn't your steering a bit touchy with the MII rack and the GM power steering pump?
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:36 PM
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Adjustable Pods

I believe all of the Chassis Engineering MII cradles have adjustable pods. They do come in handy in adjusting the ride height but I believe the adjustment should be done before you have it aligned. I found it to be difficult to adjust the height and I found that the springs would spin around when you turned the adjuster. Although I do not anticipate making any additional adjustments if any one has any recommendations I would appreciate your input.
Mike
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:43 PM
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I was glad to see the comments on spring rate, with CE offering several rates I was wondering which to pick. To Primemover, I have read some of your replies and looked at your photo file, I like what you have done with your car. We are neighbors as I am in Beaverton. We should get together someday perhaps you can point me in the right direction with my car
Michaelbc, thanks for info perhaps with enough advice I will get this one finished.

Don
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelbc
George, I went with a 300# spring rate but if I had it to do over again, I think I would have used 275# for a softer ride. I would be a bit concerned about going 130 mph though. Wasn't your steering a bit touchy with the MII rack and the GM power steering pump?
No...I don't have power steering, just a Flaming River rack. Steering not touchy at all.

George
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonC
I appreciate the info. On the vendor web site the unit offered has adjustable spring pods which provide 2 1/2" drop so dropped spindles don't seem necessary, did your setup come with the adjustable pods?
I'm waiting for the catalog from CE to see what options are available so I can order all the good parts.
Incidentally your 39 will easily out run my 53, another example of age beating youth.
thanks,
Be careful! Bump steer is a real problem if you lower the suspension too much. The lower control arms MUST BE PARALLEL to the ground. You will find that adjusting the suspension all the way down will cause the lower control arms to sag by about 10 Degrees.

Use dropped axles to slam down to the ground rather than the suspension.
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:10 PM
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Thanks for the heads up on the bump steer problem.
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Old 06-30-2006, 12:46 AM
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Parallel Lower Control Arms

The reason I would use dropped spindles next time was to get the car as low as I want but to also make sure that the lower control arms would remain parallel. Gdubstub, I really appreciate your information. What spring rate are you running and is your steering hard with a manual rack? I had thought about not putting in power steering but changed my mind because my wife will be driving the car. I also wanted to know if you put a Chassis Engineering rear spring set up in your 39 as well?
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelbc
The reason I would use dropped spindles next time was to get the car as low as I want but to also make sure that the lower control arms would remain parallel. Gdubstub, I really appreciate your information. What spring rate are you running and is your steering hard with a manual rack? I had thought about not putting in power steering but changed my mind because my wife will be driving the car. I also wanted to know if you put a Chassis Engineering rear spring set up in your 39 as well?
My '39 Chev weighs about 3500lbs, and I'm running s small block Ford motor, so the weight over the front axle is manageable. Remember that all cars of that era were manual steering, so PS is not essential. The manual rack with a 13" steering wheel gives me adequate leverage for overcoming the moderate resistance of manual steering. Where manual steering shines is on the highway, because it connects me to the road better. PS feels like steering the car while it's on a lift. Now I don't have anything against power steering (I enjoy it in my Saturn). If I had a '59 Caddy, you bet it would have PS. My next project is a '41 Dodge 3-Win Coupe, and it will have PS.

As for my setup...FRONT front end is Chassis Engineering MII with stock control arms, 75 Granada rotors with Mustang calipers, Heidts 350lb/in springs & 2" dropped spindles, Monroe shocks. REAR is Chassis Engineering springs with Monroe shocks.

It is a stiff ride, but that's the way I like it when my car is slammed all the way to the ground.

George

Last edited by gdubstub; 07-03-2006 at 12:26 PM.
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