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Old 10-08-2010, 09:48 AM
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my 350 block dilemma

I have 2 350 blocks. both are 3970010 pre 1980 standard bore blocks. one is a 2-bolt main block that is in beautiful condition, not hardly even a ridge at the top of the cylinders. the other is a 4-bolt std bore in pretty good condition...the only problem with it is it looks like something fell on it while sitting in the shop and put a nasty gouge in the very top of one cyl. I know this didn't happen while the motor was running because the piston and cylinder wall was in perfect condition. the machine shop said they would have to sleeve it to save that cyl.
My target is around 400 hp. I plan on having all the basic machine work done either way. and I'll run main studs with either engine. my question is this: which is better for the hp range I'm planning, to have a 2 bolt main that is in good shape from the beginning, or a 4-bolt that is sleeved? its going to cost an extra $100 to sleeve the cyl. and before anyone suggests it, I'm not going to spend the $500+ to put splayed caps on. thanks!

edit: I forgot to mention that this will mostly be a street driven motor shouldn't see over 6k r's much if ever. maybe an occasional run down the strip.

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Last edited by dusty13; 10-08-2010 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:18 PM
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If you don't plan on revving it hard then the 2 bolt will be fine. I would not use main studs in this application.

If you plan on revving it over 6,000 then I would get the splayed caps- you can cry about the price all you want, the tears will really flow when you spin a main bearing or worse though.
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:26 PM
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First question, Is the gouge in an area where the ring will touch it during it's travel?? If not, if some remnants of the gouge remains above the top ring travel at TDC after boring it doesn't matter, if the rings won't get into it.
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
First question, Is the gouge in an area where the ring will touch it during it's travel?? If not, if some remnants of the gouge remains above the top ring travel at TDC after boring it doesn't matter, if the rings won't get into it.
actually it doesn't go down into the cylinder far enough for the top ring to touch it. what I am actually worried about is the head gasket sealing. the gouge goes about halfway into the "ring" on the head gasket on the deck surface. the machine shop said they could use an 1/8" thick sleeve and they would have to cut it past were the gouge is to put the sleeve in, and then surface it. or maybe if I could find a head gasket with a wider sealing ring around the cylinder it could possibly still seal. it is too deep for them to just surface the deck to get it out. any ideas?
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusty13
actually it doesn't go down into the cylinder far enough for the top ring to touch it. what I am actually worried about is the head gasket sealing. the gouge goes about halfway into the "ring" on the head gasket on the deck surface. the machine shop said they could use an 1/8" thick sleeve and they would have to cut it past were the gouge is to put the sleeve in, and then surface it. or maybe if I could find a head gasket with a wider sealing ring around the cylinder it could possibly still seal. it is too deep for them to just surface the deck to get it out. any ideas?
Run a 400 sbc head gasket.
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Old 10-08-2010, 03:13 PM
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Yep, surface it and run a 4.190"-4.200" bore gasket should do it.
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Old 10-08-2010, 03:52 PM
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Just use the 2 bolt block you have that is in good condition,plenty good for 400hp.
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:02 PM
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i would just use the 2-bolt block, not like your putting it into a stock car thats gonna see 6500+RPM all day.
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:38 PM
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Don't bother with the main studs either. You are wasting your money.
Use GM or ARP engine bolts. Put your effort and money into areas that will actually do some benefit.

Gouge in the top of the cylinder bore/deck: Deck it as required and use a 1.54"
pin height "rebuilder" piston. You will probably be able to deck it .050" to .055" to achieve a 0deck clearance, depending on the present deck heights.
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