My 350 build up, help me please - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2005, 05:36 PM
montea's Avatar
tryn to learn
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alberta
Posts: 844
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks Bobby im gona take it back in first thing tommarow morn

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2005, 09:02 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: saucier, MS
Posts: 49
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
well, thats def. my opinion on things

i know that scratched cam bearings will drop oil pressure, i wouldnt truest someone who would do careless work like that,

and i am no expert engine builder, but i would look somewhere else for people who do quality work.....

as fas as the crank goes he may be correct, but id get someone elses opinion just because i dont trust anyone who does below par work in the first place
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2005, 01:22 PM
montea's Avatar
tryn to learn
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alberta
Posts: 844
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
i just got back home with my block. he said why it had the grey fim on the block was thats just the way it comes out of the hot tank like, and said i supposed to wash it down with soapy water before i assemble the engine. and he said cam bearings were scratched because the installation tool just does that. and he put the other frost plug into the block.

i took the block to another machine shop and he told me they supposed to give it to me ready for assemby and nothing should be on the block like the grey film that was on mine. the cam bearings looked fine to him but he said they smooth them out to get rid of the scratches. oh ya and they woulda done it all for $30 cheaper o well least i know where to go now. picked up a set of rings too.

now i just need some advice on

#1 - proper way to clean the block and what do spray the internal to stop from rusting?

#2 - The crank, how much is to much? is 2 thousands over the original to much to reuse with a new set of standard bearings or should i be getting a crank kit?

#3 with the 305 heads "-14014416...80-86...305..........1.84"/1.5" valves, 58cc chambers" what will my compression ratio be and will i still be able to run regular 87 octane?

Thanks again everyone!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2005, 01:53 PM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,654
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 58 Times in 55 Posts
The rule of thumb on clearences is, anything under .001 is not enough, anything over .003 is too much, so if you get standard bearings you`ll be fine. You can get bearings that are .001 thicker than standard, but before I did so I would have every bearing journal mic`d and recorded before I ordered them, because if you had one or more journals that were only .001 it maybe too tight and it would spin the bearing, so going with standard would be the safest bet. as for cleaning, there`s no such thing as clean enough, do just as I said in my first post, clean it clean it and clean it some more, soapy water don`t cut it either, I like to use sea foam or any other heavy duty cleaner to clean the bores, you can buy a new toilet brush that will fit the bores nicely, use a spiral motion with up and down strokes, use the WD40 and paper towel method to see if you see any gray on the paper towel, when it`s clean there will be none. afterwards I would wash it with soap and water, then use compressed air to dry it, then spray down the machined surfaces with WD40 to prevent rust, remember, clealiness is horsepower. The compression ratio with a .041 thick gasket will come in around 10:1 and it`s likely you`ll need to run higher octane fuel, but I think if you watch the timing curve carefully it`ll be okay on 87 octane, The figure I gave is estimated, for it to be exact you`ll have to use a compression calculator. You could always use a die grinder and carbide cutter to open up the chambers some if need be to lower the compression ratio.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2005, 03:10 PM
montea's Avatar
tryn to learn
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alberta
Posts: 844
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
i just bought a Crank kit and it set me back another $270 that leaves me with $0

he took at look at my heads and said they looked fairly good and will charge $350 for everything unless a valve is needing replacing or somthing, but from the looks of it he said they should be all fine. he also reccommended that since i am going to use a RV cam i should be getting some new valve springs, just like the LT1 springs for a extra $80. if not i have the chance of breaking the springs/rocker arms. do you guys think i really need that to be done too? extra 80 bucks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2005, 12:24 PM
montea's Avatar
tryn to learn
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alberta
Posts: 844
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
just picked up a rebuilt set of 14014416 305 heads for the motor

-will the original rockers and pushrods work with these?

-will the stock springs work ok with the edelbrock rv cam? machine shop guy said i will be breaking the springs and rockers if i dont replace them with new less coil springs that will stand the higher lift cam.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2005, 11:14 PM
circletrack62's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: kansas
Age: 27
Posts: 31
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
hey you can get a complete rebuild kit through northern auto parts for like 150 bucks, i would also have the rods checked and get a new crank, also new pistons. just rember to take your time and do things right the first time. go ahead and get new push rods they are only like $15 and he is right about the springs you need a stiffer spring. crane has a set called z28 springs that will work great.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2005, 08:16 PM
montea's Avatar
tryn to learn
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alberta
Posts: 844
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
just fired the motor up today for the first time and made me happy to see it running good


what would you guys suggest for timing it? i set base to 11degrees and vacumm to 10 degrees on ported vacum. i would like to run regular 87 octane if possible.

Thank you
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2010, 07:39 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 202
Thanked 257 Times in 239 Posts
pantera is right. I looked at the pictures and the bearings are gouged but even worse they are installed wrong. there are three different positions for the oil hole to be at for the five bearings. Also if you CAREFULLY test fit the cam before assembly ( I recommend) you should be able to spin it easily. I have sent engines back to have bearings installed again as they can be installed a little crooked if your machinist is in a hurry.I finally bought my own tool and I do it myself. You will feel a drag or it will be hard to spin from binding on the bearings. Also NEVER sand a piston . That removes material from an allready worn part and with aluminum ... abrasives will Embed themselves in the piston and munch down on the cylinders.Not to mention wear out everything else inside that moves.Late 70s heads are fine.Do your homework on chamber size and shape. there are two intake valve sizes that guys refer to whentalking about a chevy head. A 172 is the smaller Generally used on 2 bbl intake motors and a 194 which is used on 4 bbl intake motors .Both have benefits and drawbacks. Remember for every action there is an equal but opposite reaction. Good luck
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2010, 04:36 AM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,654
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 58 Times in 55 Posts
This thread is 5 years old.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
350 build upgrade cam azbandit Engine 14 06-17-2006 06:00 PM
350 Engine rebuild CamMan Engine 35 06-01-2006 02:32 PM
350 build upgrade cam suggesstions. azbandit Engine 2 02-07-2005 06:23 PM
How to build a 350 insayne Engine 2 11-08-2003 07:14 AM
350 Chevy build Streetmachine Engine 11 12-10-2001 04:31 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.