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Old 01-12-2011, 11:43 AM
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My air line diagram- where does dryer go

I did a quick sketch of what I would like to do for my garage. I think I know where the air dryer/water separator should go, but accessibility might be an issue. Would it go right before the hose reel, or maybe at the 'T' on the wall? The yellow ceiling line would only be about an 8' run, the blue line would be around 40-50ft, not counting the drop at the check valve. The blue line would slope upwards, and the ceiling mounted line would slope down from the hose reel back towards the drain line. Any changes or suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 01-12-2011, 01:46 PM
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i would say just far enough away from the compressor for the air to cool down some so the water can condense and fall out.
mine is at the end of my flex line (which is huge)
one other thing you can do is make the pipe around the dryer larger so the air slows down going through it
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:00 PM
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where would the dryer/filter need to go in my drawing to be effective? Do I need a drop at the compressor so water falls to the drop instead of into the compressor?
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:37 PM
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Hi,
Yes, a drop at your flex line.
Rich
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Old 01-12-2011, 03:01 PM
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is 1/2 line to small for this? also I found the valve at lowes to be called a 'ball valve with waste', it sort of had a knurled knob...is that what I need, or is there something else that is better for the water purge?
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Old 01-12-2011, 05:57 PM
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a shut off valve first thing at the compressor and then a drop soon as you come out of the compressor using a larger diameter line (3/4" or 1" or bigger even) for your flex and air dryer then the rest of the system is going to be.
then after the dryer, still in the larger pipe diameter i would put a tee in the line pointing up and down
down for another trap and the up can then be reduced (1/2") for your air system from there
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:46 PM
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here is a sketch of my compressor air line piping

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1371835...7624888065562/

in using this system last fall, when I would open the valves at the drain lines, I would get some moisture (vapor) out of each of them,, by far most of it came from the first drop, where the piping made the initial climb up to the ceiling (V6 on the drawing). This is probably over kill on the drops,, but it is very stinking humid in Indiana in the summer and I was only going to build this system once.

Another feature that I picked up on somewhere on the internet was to take the air off the "top" of the delivery pipe, scroll through the flickr photos, there is a picture of this. One more idea, I was able to put the air compressor in a small storage building outside of the garage,, not having that compresssor running the garage is really nice.

Last edited by DadTruck; 01-12-2011 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 01-12-2011, 08:47 PM
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dadtruck, I'm glad you hopped in this discussion, I was looking at your setup when I was designing mine. I'm going to edit my drawing to have one of those "top" pipes to move the air to the hose reel. Your desiccant dryer/filter...what brand are they? On the V6 in your drawing, I didn't see where the air compressor connected to that line? I see that check valve though. What sort of check valve is that?
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:20 PM
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where would the dryer/filter go in this design so that is effective?
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:40 AM
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the two yellow desiccant canisters are HF units,, I put teflon tape on the threaded ends and with a lot of torque, got them to seal up ok,,as these are only plain canisters I believe they will be fine.
I have not had a need to do any painting yet, so this part of the system is not done, will add a dryer / regulator ahead of the canisters and a filter after.
The dryer / filter / regulator will not be HF.
at outlet 2 there is a regulated / oil added air supply, HF unit, kind of works OK, had to teflon tape the jar tops / fittings, the threaded holes on the components are not all drilled on the same centers, so the unit hangs crooked,,at outlet 3 there is regulated air, also a HF unit, first one purchased was bad out of the box,, was replaced by the HF store, the second one seems to work OK, I'll upgrade these two regulators as they fail.
My air compressor is in a small storage shed outside the garage directly behind drop v6,, I put a 2 inch diameter PVC pipe through the wall to make a passage, I have a 3/4 copper line that runs through that to a T, the pipe then runs up to feed the system and down to drain v6.
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:51 AM
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any reason I couldn't get a decent desiccant dryer/filter and use that for all my tools/painting? I usually just oil my tools that need oiling.
I wondered if the compressor line wasn't just behind that V6 drop.
What can you tell me about your check valves- any part numbers, where you got them?
The drops that you have, do you just open those before use of the shop tools, do they automatically open/drain? just wondering.
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:02 AM
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One dryer regulator filter would work,, I put in separate outlets just so I would not need to have to remember to oil the air tools,,,,I also wanted a very high quality dryer / filter for painting,, did not want to be using that up when I was putting air in a tire.

at the end of my drops are standard ball valves I purchased at Lowes, I open these manually to blow out any moisture collected. The piping I used is 3/4, to save a bit of money the drops and the valves used on the drops are 1/2 inch.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:36 AM
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you would need a separate hose then for painting than with air tools, since you would be putting oil through that line. I have to have to keep some budget and if I can use one hose, one dryer/filter that would cut costs greatly.

Looking at your desiccant setup, there is a 'T' off the copper line with what looks to be a check valve and a board with nothing on it. Is this were you will be putting your dryer and then piping down to the air inlet on the HF filters...then on the topside of those filters is the output to the paint gun...Is that right?

What is the need for larger pipe out from the compressor and then stepping down to my 1/2" pipe as prescribed by matts37chev? Is it just because the run isn't long enough? If that is the case, I could run the pipe around the room to the front of the garage and I would likely be in the vicinity of 80-90ft of pipe.

Last edited by vintagecar; 01-13-2011 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:50 AM
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matts37chevy can answer his thinking,,
but my thoughts are larger pipes when compared to smaller pipes provide
1) more surface area for cooling
2) more volume capacity

the net effect depends upon the over all length and diameter differences,
to optimize cooling and capacity, go as big as you can

another internet idea that I picked up on was to stand the pipes off, away from the wall it is mounted to,,to let air flow around them,, seemed like a reasonable idea, I used sections of 1x2 at the wall mounts.

yes, my air tools are used at the bench that is now just below the window, I have a 8 ft piece of line on the lubed air outlet at that location.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:55 AM
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thanks...that is what I was thinking. I like the stand-off idea as well, I will definitely do that. I editted my above post, adding the following question...

Looking at your desiccant setup, there is a 'T' off the copper line with what looks to be a check valve and a board with nothing on it. Is this were you will be putting your dryer and then piping down to the air inlet on the HF filters...then on the topside of those filters is the output to the paint gun...Is that right?
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