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Old 07-02-2007, 09:41 PM
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My Blazer keeps destroying U-joints...

I've had to replace the U-joints in the rear driveshaft of my Blazer four times in the last two years. I continuously grease them but the needle bearings keep getting pulverized. I replaced both U-joints on the rear driveshaft today and the needle bearings were a sticky goo and the pinions had chunks missing from them. Any ideas?

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Old 07-02-2007, 10:07 PM
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Mine does the same thing. I went to using the 22.00 U joints instead of the 12 dollar ones and now I replace them once a year.

I don't remember the size, but mine is the same size as a passenger car, so it really takes a beating with all of the towing I do.

I'll bet a bigger yoke and ujoint would do them some good.

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Old 07-02-2007, 10:18 PM
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You got a leaky spark tube...
 
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That is what my dad suggested as well. I do have 3/4 ton axles for it with larger yokes but I'm not going to put those in until I can tear it down to the frame.
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:38 PM
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u joints

I know this may sound pretty strange but a bad ground can destroy u-joints! If you have a bad ground cable from the engine to the frame the electrical current can find some strange ways to get back to the battery, sometimes through the drive shaft, axle, rear suspension and frame. The arcing can make the needle bearings pit and they wear out from that.

Before you laugh, check your grounds!! It really does happen.

Rick
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:52 PM
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You got a leaky spark tube...
 
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We rewired it three years ago and, in addition to replacing the factory ground straps we also installed three additional 10 gauge ground wires. One from the engine to the frame, one from the engine to the body and one from the battery to the body. The engine is grounded to the battery with 0 gauge cable.
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:22 PM
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My 84 ate u-joints like Michael Moore eats twinkies too. I installed a double cardan joint off the front driveshaft in a 1/2 GMC 4x4 in a junk yard to the back of the T-case and had the driveshaft rebalanced and shimmed the rear axle. Total cost was only about $200 including the balancing. After that I never broke a u-joint unless I also broke a locker or axle shaft.
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:14 AM
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Does the blazer have coils or leaf springs?

I used some angled shims on my last CJ5 to get the pinion angle more in line with the driveshaft and it helped a bunch.
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:54 AM
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I had a short bed chevy with a 205 t-case once with the same problem except it was mainly the joint at the t-case. I knew a guy that built lots of ford and chevy 4x4s and he took a yoke from a 3/4 ton ford 205 case and gave it to me to replace my yoke with. I replaced it and no more u-joint problems. I think it took a bigger joint.
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Old 07-03-2007, 09:12 AM
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you never said and no one asked but do you have a lift kit in your blazer.
if so you probably have to much angle on the shaft and thats whats making it loose u joints.
you might have to adjust your pinion angle.
just a thought.
good luck figuring it out.
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Old 07-03-2007, 10:22 AM
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You got a leaky spark tube...
 
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It has the stock leaf spring suspension under it. Although it does appear that the rear end has been removed at least once before because the U-bolts were made from 5/8" all-thread. It's entirely possible somebody left something out or changed something then.

Yes, I did replace the all-thread with actual U-bolts. Just one of a number of hack jobs I've fixed from the wiring harness, to the seatbelts, to the gas tank, etc... It was pretty scary when I got it.
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:19 AM
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I would suspect pinion angle as well, do they both match at each end? Also your putting the u joints in with the grease fittings facing the middle of the driveshaft ?
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:43 AM
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Do you use a regular Grease? where I work, in situations where a JOint works back and forth we use a Grease that has Molybdenum disulfide-it does help (maybe you already knew this-

The structure, appearance, and feel of molybdenum disulfide is similar to graphite - a sandwich of layers of molybdenum atoms between the layers of sulfur atoms. Due to the weak interactions between the sheets of sulfide atoms, MoS2 has a low coefficient of friction resulting in a lubricating effect. Sliding friction tests of MoS2 using a pin on disc tester at low loads (0.1-2N) give friction coefficient values of >0.1. Finely powdered MoS2 with particle sizes in the range of 1-100 Ám is a common dry lubricant. It is also often mixed into various oils and greases, which allows the mechanisms lubricated by it to keep running for a while longer, even in cases of almost complete oil loss - finding an important use in aircraft engines. It is often used in motorcycle engines, especially in areas of two-stroke engines which are not otherwise well lubricated.

MoS2 grease is recommended for CV and universal joints
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:54 AM
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As well as pinion angle - if it is a 'custom' driveshaft, is it timed correctly - that is, the solid yoke front and rear on the same side of the driveshaft and ditto the moveable. I helped a guy with a T bucket one day coming back from a show - he had popped it on the NY Thruway. He didn't have a clue as to what I was talking about - but soon learned that he had an incorrect assembly.

There are several good articles here: http://www.iedls.com/guide.html
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:07 PM
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You got a leaky spark tube...
 
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I don't know what the pinion angle is, I'll have to pick up a protractor and check it out.

As far as grease goes, I've always used bearing grease in the U-joints and on the splines of the driveshaft itself.

Irelands Child, I think I know what you're talking about. I'm going out to put it back in shortly. I'll take a look at it.
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:44 PM
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You got a leaky spark tube...
 
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I just finished reinstalling it. It does look as though it's clocked right, if I understand what you're referring to Irelands Child. It appears that the angles are slightly different at each end. The transfer case end looks like it more angularity than the pinion end which is almost in-line, maybe a few degrees.

I got the u-joints with the grease fittings in the caps otherwise I have to drop each end and put the two loose caps in a c-clamp in order to grease the joint.
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