[calimstng66]

i drive a 1966 mustang and well for the last 1-2 weeks has on occasion (6 times) has just shut off on me, it has gotten quite annoying. I will be driving down a street and will jost go dead, all the electrical (my stereo) just shuts off for a second and i have to put it in park and restart it my car.

[docvette]

Doc here,

Check the 10 gauge wire at the solenoid on the side that the battery is on.

Be sure it is tight, and the connector is installed properly.

Check your battery cables on the battery, be sure they are CLEAN, corrosion free and tight. Check the ground cable where it bolts to the frame and engine , be sure that is tight.

If all that is good , start and run the car, and open the hood and shake the harness (within reason) until you can duplicate the problem. That is the offender..repair or replace as required.

Doc

[calimstng66]

hey well all has been fine for a month and wham bam it is back. went thru checked all again and seems ok but still just randomly shuts off. Whatever it is it allows the headlights and all to stay on just shuts off. And sometimes when shuts off i wont be able to start it at all (no engine turning noise at all) when i turn the key for a few seconds.

[docvette]

Doc here,

What corrections were made?

Doc

[calimstng66]

well pretty much checked all the cables and wires made sure were ok and tight and seemed to be. As far as buying new things nothing yet, cause am still unsure of the problem. I was thinking just as a precaution of having all the wires changed, are there places that do this?

[matt167]

my '67 Falcon did that once, just a little weirder. I was coming up my hill to my house in 1st, when it tried to kick into 2nd, it momentarrly died, compleatly shut off, but then came right back to life, checked everything over, never found anything wrong, and it hasn't done it since.

[docvette]

Doc here,

MATT:

Check the float level..if it only died on a hill..If not that, the sump pickup in the tank..they may be purging dry.

CALIMSTNG66:

Do you mean like, Thew whole harness?? or just plug wires?

Plug wires are simple..you Can do yourself in about an hour, just get a wire kit, measure the lengths against the existing wires, and replace ONE at a time..

A whole harness is a different ballgame..First you need to purchase a harness..aftermrkets can run from $200 for "Bare bones" to $1000 for a custom kit. AN OEM kit can run up to about $2200

Then you must decide who will do the remove/Install...If you do it yourself..expect some cost involved with buying a few specialty tools, and construction material for anti Chafe and proper bonding/secure mounting of the new harness..Then you must fabricate a ground buss system for the whole car..(never included with a kit).Expect (depending on your skill level) up to several months to do the job correctly.

If you have a shop do it, bare in mind there are darned FEW shops around that do just specifically complete harness installs..Auto stereo Shops are to be avoided..Most are very good at Audio, and fabrication, but have done few "A to Z jobs.." and look in the shop..most are kids doing the installs..

Some auto electric , well able to handle the jobs quite well, will charge you (if they will take it on at all..) T&M per hour..our rate is $99 to $125 an hour..WITH the understanding THAT it be done during "Slack" periods of labor..and may take several months to a year to complete and cost an arm and leg..Such jobs can cost between $1500 to $5000 in labor alone..Parts cost will be higher also..(because they buy in "One Of" instead of bulk)

There are shops around that DO that type of work either as a sideline to Street-rod building, OR places like Shops that convert Emergency Vehicles , Build or convert RV's and ambo's, build large busses and trucks, convert / Build ENG's and mobile video/audio production trailers..These places usually don't have work all year round and welcome the jobs. They have access to all bulk material, things like automatic wire marker/Printers, any bonding/anti chafe materials required..and can provide the service as a bid .. as a much cheaper job, with better quality products, and more experienced Installation Techs then you'll find elsewhere..

There is lot's to consider / plan for on a complete re~wire before starting the job.

Doc

[Bryan59EC]

If the radio and signals quit working---the issue would be in the ignition switch, I would think.

If the radio and signals are working---I would guess between the ignition switch and coil---bad wire--bad ballast??

Bryan----not a ford person----but have 3 of em

[matt167]

Originally Posted by docvette

Doc here,

MATT:

Check the float level..if it only died on a hill..If not that, the sump pickup in the tank..they may be purging dry.


Doc

never thought about that. the carb was recently rebuilt and I put a new float in at the same time, and set it to factory specs, tho the carb is a bit out of tune. At that time the tank was full. it didn't spit or sputter, it just shut off, hasn't done it again so I'm not too worried about it.

[docvette]

Doc here,

MATT, try finding a REAL Steep driveway, and see if you can replicate the problem..It may just be a little too low / High float..and a little bit of carb tuning.

Or just one of those little gremlins that live in the engine bay that are one timers..or 1 in 5000 timers..that are more annoying than harmful..

Doc

[steve t]

check wireing at firewall plug to inside of dash, my 65 chevy did that sometimes

[matt167]

Originally Posted by docvette

Doc here,

MATT, try finding a REAL Steep driveway, and see if you can replicate the problem..It may just be a little too low / High float..and a little bit of carb tuning.

Or just one of those little gremlins that live in the engine bay that are one timers..or 1 in 5000 timers..that are more annoying than harmful..

Doc

I got my road that I could try it on, that's where it happened and it is rarely travled by anybody but locals. it is over 45*, probably around a 60* incline

[docvette]

Doc here,

Some basic places I'd look, If the car has a MAXI fuse or fuse link, (most pre 70 cars did not) check to see that it hasn't melted partially open, and may be vibrating on the bare ends (intermittent power)

Check all your grounds, BE sure you have a proper ground buss..and it works, If not install one, you may have bad mounts (the only ground points):

Run a properly gauged Ground cable from the battery to any handy bolt at or near the starter, From that same bolt get a Battery cable at the parts store, that has two 3/8 ring terminals on each end and attach it there and to the Frame.

Next get some 10 gauge wire and ring terminals and run that from your bolt on the block to the Firewall, and another to the Alternator bracket or mount bolt.

Next get some Wire Braid, (Radio Shack) and install braid from the radiator support to the frame, Fenderwells to frame , hood to firewall, Doors to door posts, gas flap to body, tailgate / Trunk to body.

At each point the wire is grounded, Burnish ALL the paint and grease off to bare metal. Use a proper star-washer and lock. Use sheetmetal or Tech screws where no screws are available.

It sounds like a lot of work, but after you assemble all the parts, it's only a few hours to do..and you'll end up with a system that will work reliably for many years to come..and can eliminate that from your troubleshooting list.

Does that year have a Didja Spark (Dura Spark) Box? If so it may be headed south thermally..If it's just coil and points check ALL the coil and Dizzy connections.

Check the plugs as the enter / Exit the firewall , look for burned , bent or dirty pins..be sure it has seated properly, clean and burnish all the pins until bright and shiny clean..DON'T forget to disconnect the battery. If the plug has slipped, clean, reinstall, and fabricate a strain relief about 3 inches back from the plug.

Check the fuse buss wires (remove the fuse panel) for burned wires or shattered joints on the buss bars..

Lastly check the socket at the ignition switch for loose or burned Conditions..Also if you have an amp gauge, be sure the wires are tight at the rear of the gauge..(Battery MUST be disconnected).

Doc