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Old 03-16-2010, 05:02 PM
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my dist. moved significantly @ 5000 rpm??

New build, gm400 w/hydraulic roller. Today I brought her up to 5000rpm. and for the second time, the dist. retarded itself significantly. I thought It was cranked down pretty good, Although I could still move it by hand, It seemed tight enough. I am afraid of stripping the bolt in that cheap aluminum. I did pull the dist. and it seems to be OK. From what I can see, there is no damage on the cam gear. What causes this ? I did set the cam play w/ a dial indicator . ??

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Old 03-16-2010, 05:10 PM
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Are you using a stock hold down or a after-market like chrome?


Cole
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by eloc431962
Are you using a stock hold down or a after-market like chrome?


Cole
After mrkt. chrome
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:15 PM
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Get a orignal piece (stock) it should hold it then, I never had much luck with the after-market chrome stuff in that area. Or any area at that,JMO


Cole

Last edited by eloc431962; 03-16-2010 at 05:42 PM. Reason: left something out
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:29 PM
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If you can turn it by hand, then it will definitely turn at higher RPM. Smart to not put too much torque on that aluminum intake. Pretty(?) chrome is not very tall in the performance world.

Trees
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:32 PM
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Get a hold down that uses a stud. Won't strip that way.
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:32 PM
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The best thing I can say about those low-buck chrome engine pieces is that they're low-grade junk.

The only chrome dress-up pieces I ever had work correctly were OEM pieces that I chromed myself or pieces that I fabricated from scratch and had chromed.
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
The best thing I can say about those low-buck chrome engine pieces is that they're low-grade junk.

The only chrome dress-up pieces I ever had work correctly were OEM pieces that I chromed myself or pieces that I fabricated from scratch and had chromed.
I agree 100% Richard, Just like those dang chrome thermostat housings . Have a feeling we might just offend someone on this subject.


Cole
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:39 PM
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Thanks for all the input. I agree, I did not have a hold down and needed one, that was readily available. It must be because it is to soft and slippery, I was thinking, maybe if I cut some grooves in it if it will help( you know, the dist.side) I like the stud idea too, Think I will locktight a stud in there for starters. By the way , after further inspection, It appears the dist. gear is wearing low on the gear,( in both the old and new engine) and Im not liking it, It was a cheap, $99.00 after mrkt. dist. and its 8 yrs. old and it clearly doesn't have a GM gear on it. I have decided to go with a new one.(GM remanufactured) instead of after mrkt.
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:44 PM
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What are all the specs of your engine? You may need to go with a MSD Ignition or something similar JMO.


Cole
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
What are all the specs of your engine? You may need to go with a MSD Ignition or something similar JMO.


Cole
I have the MSD w/the rev. limiter in there. (on a stock dist.)
10:1
comp 270 hyd.roller .495 .502
stock con. rods
Comp. retro Hyd.lifters, W/link bar
RHS 2.02 -1.6 220 intake runner 72cc heads
weiand stealth intake w/ 750cfm
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:45 AM
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Are you sure the hold down bolt wasn't bottoming out before clamping sufficiently? I agree with the stud suggestion. Anything that threads into aluminum should use a stud/nut whenever possible...
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:17 AM
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If your hold down is nice and beefy, you may just need to rough up the part where it contacts the distributor and snug it down better with a stud,
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:38 AM
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If it is loose enough to turn by hand it aint tight enough to hurt the threads. Snug it till you can't turn it.
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