*wiggles to edge of chair and waits patiently*

I purchased very detailed instructions on Ebay a while back that describe how to build a similar machine. I'm going to send a PM to Jon to make sure there won't be any "copyright" problems for HR.com before I post what I have.

Stay tuned!

Bryan

Doc here,

Been following this Thread with great interest..

And I will be building one also with my own mods in it..

However, First, What you really need to do is set up all the photos and baseline descriptions and any schematics involved as part of your project journal for prosperity..So future Builders have a guide line to reference to..(rather than reading 300 posts getting a bit here a bit there..) But continue with the thread too as the questions add to the mix!

Next..In order to cut strike bog..have you considered the employment of a Diode output (cable leads) for the DC side?




(SDI) 241NQ045

45 volts. 240 amps. This high current Schottky rectifier module series has been optimized for low reverse leakage at high temperatures. The proprietary barrier technology allows for reliable operation up to 175° C junction temperature. Typical applications are in switching power supplies, converters, free-wheeling diodes and reverse battery protection.

• Rectangular waveform = 240amps
• VRRM Range = 35 to 50 volts
• IFSM @tp=5 µs sine = 25,000 amps
• VF @240Apk, TJ=125°C = .59 volts
• TJ Range = -55° to 175° C

You could mount a pair of these dudes on a couple pieces of finned Heat-sink stock about 4 in by 10 in and they would last forever..and bolt your cables right to it..

AND DOWNRIGHT CHEAP at $12 bucks a throw!!

This would take some of the 'Punch" out of the bog on the driven motor..(but not all..) AND provide isolation to the~ I/ Source, and power supply behind it.

Just a thought..

Doc

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I was thinking more along the lines of an article in the Knowledge Base...but a journal section would probably work too. If it was in the Knowledge Base it might be easier to find.

Also, when this gets thrashed/discussed out, I hope we can have a very detailed "parts list" with appropriate numbers/sources etc. Unlike you Doc, I know very little about all this electrical stuff...and could easily burn down my garage if I was left unsupervised for over 5 minutes. So I have to rely on others to know how to build the proper safety factors into this apparatus.

The instructions I have include pictures and a very detailed parts list, all in adobe format (5MB). I sent a PM to Jon. I just want to make sure this forum doesn't violate any copyright laws.

there is no issues with "bog" on my machine, so I dont think those are nessacary. and its cheaper without em

In time I will get all the individual parts layed out and the schematic.. its just tedious and i dont have much time at the moment. but I will get there

so I left of at 25VAC, next we need to change it to DC with a simple bridge rectifier.. you can see it above the transformer, it is the small square box with four wires screwed to the aluminum plate... ie heatsink

Part# KBPC35-10

Attached Thumbnails

 

now we have a DC power supply to work with. simple hey

its get a little more complicated from here..
next we need to talk about transistors....

A transistor is sorta like a valve


it has three terminals.. Base, Collector, and Emitter

The collector is where gets its power from. IE: the DC output from the Rectifier

The Emitter is the output, pretty self explanitory

and the base is the handle of the tap basicly.. its sets the output...

I am basically going through this the same way i did.. to figure it all out..

I thinks its the best way, as you have to learn about the pieces before you can put it together

ok another background lesson.... voltage dividers

kinda tricky but really very simple

A voltage divider is a way to use less than the maximum output voltage.

if you take the negative of a DC power supply and the positive of the same
DC powers supply and put two equal resistances between them in series, and then attach a wire to the connection between the resistors you will get half the voltage of the main output. like this

Attached Thumbnails

 

the +Vs is our 25VDC positive output

the OV is our Negative output

and the output Vo would be 12.5VDC+

Make sense??