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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327amc
Super!!!!!!!!
i did these header with a mig. (they leak like crazy)

Then I suggest you practice a little more on the mig. It takes patience but a mig weld can be nice looking and seal perfect if you take the time to practice

Overall nice looking headers though
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 07:07 AM
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Homemade Tig Welder

Very Nice! I would also appreciate a detailed sketch of how you accomplished this.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 08:21 AM
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could you?

Travis, just wondering man, could you do this with a lawn-mower engine? I mean, I don't got engines lying around just anywhere, and I sure don't want to take a vehicle apart anytime that I need to get some welding done, so rather than getting an extra vehicle, a lawn mower would be a cheaper way, IF it was feasible.
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Old 01-05-2006, 08:22 AM
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Travis, Great job!
Would there be any advantage to using a regulated variable voltage supply for the controller? Better stability maybe? IF so then one can be easily built for a fraction of the cost of an off the shelf item. What do you think, waste of time or would it even work?
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 09:55 AM
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Thanks Travis

Travis, I have made several projects like yours in the past. I made a 2 alternator jump box with a old ridding lawnmower. I helped a guy with a welder lie yours and he used a variable speed drive on a 5 hp electric drive. We used screw in rectifiers with pig tails and a SCR controller. Your project is cool, I can just see the smoe coming out of garages all over.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 10:19 AM
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i fogot to mention,
it was a 110v mig without gas, using flux core wire only.
I have a 64' rambler american 330. I got it with a 302 and 3 on the tree. it ran and drove. So naturally i pulled the ford out, and put a 327 in
and i had to make these headers
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 12:42 PM
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fantastic project
can you tap 110 volts of some where when using a gas garden tractor as a power unit?
max
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:44 PM
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Awesome!

Travis,

Thanks for doing this! I know it takes a long time to do and I do appreciate it. Will be getting together with some friends and we are going to be looking at building one of these.

Another friend's dad has a second alternator in his Jeep setup as a DC stick welder, just in case he breaks something when he is out 4 wheeling. I believe this is similar to your idea. Neat idea using the sliding light dimmer for the foot control.

I have attached a Word document that I made from your posts along with some of the posts where the content adds to the discussion. Hope it helps in creating an all encompassing document in the future.

Now, if someone could just come up with a home made plasma cutter...

Regards,
Rob
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy larry
I'm with you.

do the resistors in the voltage dividers have to be any specific resistance? or any as long as they are identical?.....n/m, i see you spec'd 0.1 ohm.

if we need to step down to 12 vdc, is it necessary to start with the 240 vac? Is 120 vac insufficient?


Travis, thanks for your time. I do appreciate it.
Ok well the lesson on voltage dividers was just that .. a lesson.. the voltage dividers are VR1 and VR1 10k Potntiometers.. the o.1 ohm resistors are simply 12" of 14 AWG wire, just a s a means to balance the load on the 2N5885's


the reason we start with 240VAC is becuase we allready have that in the case to run the electric motor.. there is no common in the case to make 120VAC.. i thought about putting a common in there so i could mount a small grinder for grinding the tungsten on the welder itself and later on use it for the high frequency start.. but then it would need its own 4 wire extension cord and plug in, so i said forget it.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327amc
Super!!!!!!!!
Everyone just have patience. It looks worth the wait. When you get it all done, just post the grocery list, all the drawings you can handle, and the tech info to go with it. That would be sweet. And some alternate info on building other rigs, like 110v supply models, 220v models ..etc. And i will be building a cover over mine, (fully inclosed using polished diamond plate ) so perhaps a small cooling fan would be in order? how would that wire up?
For some excellent electrical readin in the meantime, look at http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
i did these header with a mig. (they leak like crazy)
for cooling on mine .. when i get the cover built, is just going to be a hole with mesh in it right in front of the alt. the fan on the alt will pull the air in, and you could also put a small fan in front of the transistors to help them out.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rico
Travis, just wondering man, could you do this with a lawn-mower engine? I mean, I don't got engines lying around just anywhere, and I sure don't want to take a vehicle apart anytime that I need to get some welding done, so rather than getting an extra vehicle, a lawn mower would be a cheaper way, IF it was feasible.
I covered this earlier you need at least an 11HP gas engine for a 140 amp alt.

for in shop use just use an electric motor.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Travis, Great job!
Would there be any advantage to using a regulated variable voltage supply for the controller? Better stability maybe? IF so then one can be easily built for a fraction of the cost of an off the shelf item. What do you think, waste of time or would it even work?
That is essentially what the schematic is, minus the regulated part..

originally thats what I was going to use.. then i found out how much they where and how much i dont have.. and built this
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwman
Travis, I have made several projects like yours in the past. I made a 2 alternator jump box with a old ridding lawnmower. I helped a guy with a welder lie yours and he used a variable speed drive on a 5 hp electric drive. We used screw in rectifiers with pig tails and a SCR controller. Your project is cool, I can just see the smoe coming out of garages all over.
lol yes I let the smoke out a couple times learning this, but thats the fun..

I claim no liability.. !!!!!!!DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!

The problem with changing speed of the motor rather than changing the field coil input, is that it wont have the response time you want.. I use my pedal alot, i think that would be alot harder on the motor as well. Also you wouldn't get the off the line power you need when you strike an arc the alt will be spinning alot slower. Also you will never be able to make the pulser feature later on, as well as any other little feature i can come up with.
Those rectifiers are nice, but they are alot more expensive and alot more work.. when a $25 Transpo part does a great job of rectifying the current.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327amc
i fogot to mention,
it was a 110v mig without gas, using flux core wire only.
I have a 64' rambler american 330. I got it with a 302 and 3 on the tree. it ran and drove. So naturally i pulled the ford out, and put a 327 in
and i had to make these headers

Flux core will do a much nicer job than hard wire anyday!! it burns deeper and uses less power.. also the gas can't get blown away.. you will get alot less cold lap, and a nicer flatter weld. crank it up and practise practise practise

I actually welded this header up with mig, as i was out of argon at the time... no leaks
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2006, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rampage40
fantastic project
can you tap 110 volts of some where when using a gas garden tractor as a power unit?
max
you mean to run grinders and other brush type motors.. (no variable speed drills though)

Yes with full field coil current and the rpms maxed uut, you cun run those off of the welder output. just wire in an electrical box.
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