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Old 10-05-2008, 10:36 AM
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my engine turns off when putting it in gear

I have 1977 ford f100 custom with a 351w. My engine will start up fine and will idle fine but when i put it in any gear it just shuts off. Also the engine will only idle with the hose off the pvc valve, when connected it will just turn off as well. Does anyone know what could be wrong?

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Old 10-05-2008, 03:26 PM
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Re:my engine turns off when putting it in gear

I had a similar problem on my 283 chevy. Mine problem was solved when I took care of all the hose vacuum leaks. You should check your pvc valve and either clean it or replace it if when you shake it it does not rattle (there is a little ball inside that sticks).
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Old 10-05-2008, 04:41 PM
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Four problems come to my mind.

First and foremost, is ignition timing. The 'timing' needs to be set to 10 degrees, with the "spout" connector disconnected. The base Idle speed needs to be set correctly.

Other options are,

1. The 'plastic' vacuum lines can be suspect.

The vacuum lines could have a crack, sucking air. "vacuum leak"

2. "Fuel" pressure (too much, or too little). A bad fuel pressure regulator.

3. A 'loaded' transmission torque converter. (wrong kick down cable adjustment, bad brake switch, etc).
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:02 PM
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I would agree with the timing most definitely. I had the problem on my 350 small block. We had just installed a new cam and after running it in you could not put the car in gear without it dieing out. I was unaware that my buddy had the timing only set to about two degrees advance, after we got it right it ran perfect. If that ain't the problem I would check all vacuum lines though
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:36 PM
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I checked for vaccum leaks already and I had the timming done by a mechanic because I could not find the marks. I just put a new pvc valve in today and it did not solve the problem. So I should check the fuel regulator now?
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Old 10-05-2008, 06:26 PM
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Sice the timing was set by a professional. Ask him how far off the timing was, when it was set.

Either the 'spout' connector was not dis-connected, or the harmonic balancer is 'spun'.

If he had to move it 20 degrees or more, have him recheck it for a 'spun' balancer, or make sure the 'spout' connector is dis-connected for sure.
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:21 PM
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On a 1977 Ford F100, your mechanic should be able to hook up a diagnostic scanner, and set the timing to the "computed timing" setting. This is set at 30 degrees within 2 minutes. 10 degrees base, plus 20 degrees computed timing.

Other wise; The 'spout' connector is located, either in wiring harness by the distributor, or on top of the drivers side inner fender well. Under, or near the brake master cylinder.

It is either a light tan, brown, or black connector. It has 2 wires going into it, 2 locking tabs on either side of it. It is about 7/16" thick, and right at 1" wide.
It's installed hight is approximately between 1 3/4" and 1 1/2".

Warm it up to normal operating temperature. With the key off, disconnect the spout connector, start it up, set the timing to 10 degrees. Turn the key off, re-connect the spout, and start it back up.

Note: you may have to dis-connect the battery for a few minutes, to turn off the check engine light, after this procedure.
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Old 10-06-2008, 01:18 AM
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lol I hope you are just being funny there carsavvycook thats pretty good a "spout" connector on a 77 ford...lol
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Old 10-06-2008, 01:33 AM
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"Since the timing was set by a professional. Ask him how far off the timing was, when it was set."

My 66 years on this rock tells me he advanced it until it pinged on a test drive, then turned it back a little and called it good. Call me jaded if you want, but I'd like to be there to hear him say "OHHH, she was off a bunch, yeah, a BUNCH.
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Old 10-06-2008, 06:54 PM
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i think carsavvycook is thinking about a 87 ford pickup
there isn't a fuel pressure regulator, a spout connector, a diagnostic scanner, or check engine light on a 77 ford pickup.

if it cranks good, the battery to motor is probably fine, but still check all the grounds, battery to motor, battery to body & motor to body.

a slipped balancer is a possibility.
if the timing is right & if it won't run with the PCV valve connected, have a long hard look at the carburetor. check it for a binding choke & for flooding.

those old Duraspark systems were trouble prone to say the least about them.
if the ignition module has goo running out of it, its either going bad, or is bad, replace it. it may take 4 or 5 modules before you get a good one.
they can be bad even if they aren't leaking.
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:27 PM
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[QUOTE=Soul_Hunter]i think carsavvycook is thinking about a 87 ford pickup
there isn't a fuel pressure regulator, a spout connector, a diagnostic scanner, or check engine light on a 77 ford pickup.

I was, and I was going to edit it to correct it last night, but the power went out for 7 1/2 hours. It slipped my mind this morning.

Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 10-06-2008, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77fordf100
Also the engine will only idle with the hose off the pvc valve, when connected it will just turn off as well. Does anyone know what could be wrong?

If I ran into this, my first thought would be that it's running VERY VERY rich. If it will only idle with the PCV hose off, it's leaning it out enough to stay running.

Is this a 2 barrel carb? If so, they are famous for having the power valve go bad. When this happens, it will dribble gas down the main nozzles at idle. You can see this by looking down the carb while it's idling. If you see any gas dripping, it needs help.

Mark
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Old 10-06-2008, 10:05 PM
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There was a very common problem in that era for 302's and 351W's to have the egr spacer plate rot-out. Seen it on more than 1 of that era, including family's '76 E150 club wagon (3/4 ton window van). Would cause exactly the symptom being described. Not saying that this is definitely his problem, but certainly worth looking into. (Pull carb and plate, inspect {or replace} the plate itself + new gasket, clean the passages and reinstall all.) If this isn't it, I do hope you find a resolution soon. Best of luck. -Jim
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