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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 632Mantis View Post
Here ya go:

Little Chief 11 Cylinder Head - Small Block Chevy Aluminum Heads - Cylinder Heads

ap72 would like you to run these heads. They are not "inferior".
Hey, when you're spending someone else's money why stop there?

The assault heads can do very well for the price.

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
The best deal ive seen on an all forged assembly with h beam rods and bearings and rings included is around 1300..
Post a link so we can check it out.

Thats not a bad price for an all-forged complete assembly, depending on the brand of parts in the kit.
Probably Scat or Eagle i'm guessing.
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
Hey, when you're spending someone else's money why stop there?

The assault heads can do very well for the price.
Ya i figure i can get those heads completed for about 1k. That seem right?
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
and they were sold in a pair and the darts are individually...
K, that part I missed. I thought it was for EACH head.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
Ya i figure i can get those heads completed for about 1k. That seem right?
Seems like you must be buying some really fancy parts for them. If you wanted to you could complete them for around $650 for everything with good parts.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 632Mantis View Post
Post a link so we can check it out.

Thats not a bad price for an all-forged complete assembly, depending on the brand of parts in the kit.
Probably Scat or Eagle i'm guessing.
Its not a kit more me piecing a kit together. I think im looking at the right stuff. This is just me clicking around guessing the exacts of what i need. The darn machinist says i should run 6'' rods. Im not sure if that means i am building a 383 stroker (i dont think i want to do this) or if it makes it a 355 or what...so anyways... theres the main parts. So anyways i through the 383 crank in there...

-Rods
SMALL BLOCK CHEVY 383 350 406 4340 6" Connecting Rods - KMJ Performance

-Pistons
Sbc Small Block Chevy 350 Forged 6in Rod Ft Pistons Set - KMJ Performance

-Crankshaft
SBC CHEVY 383 4130 Forged Steel Crankshaft 350 6" Rod - KMJ Performance
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:14 PM
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Keep your options open:

BluePrint Engines GM 383 C.I.D. Stroker Base Dressed Crate Engines BP38313CTC1 - SummitRacing.com

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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
Seems like you must be buying some really fancy parts for them. If you wanted to you could complete them for around $650 for everything with good parts.
I see. All my guesstimations are based on what random parts i click on, on the internet coupled with the "its going to cost you millions of dollars to do this 600hp motor!!!" people. So i figured 1k... im really hoping this machinist guy can get me grounded better on wth i need to do this right at a good price. He seems to know his stuff.

Like i said im all ears. If you guys want to link all the parts youd use in your head i will totally look it over and then show my machinist and if he concours perhaps that will be the route i will go.

There seems to be two camps on this forum. The "it costs millions" guys and the "its not very expensive to build" guys.

Im not sure which is closer to reality. I need to build it right and reliable and tough for nitrous. But at the same time im not looking for top of the line parts either.

Last edited by kentactic; 11-25-2012 at 08:31 PM.
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
Its not a kit more me piecing a kit together. I think im looking at the right stuff. This is just me clicking around guessing the exacts of what i need. The darn machinist says i should run 6'' rods. Im not sure if that means i am building a 383 stroker (i dont think i want to do this) or if it makes it a 355 or what...so anyways... theres the main parts. So anyways i through the 383 crank in there...

-Rods
SMALL BLOCK CHEVY 383 350 406 4340 6" Connecting Rods - KMJ Performance

-Pistons
Sbc Small Block Chevy 350 Forged 6in Rod Ft Pistons Set - KMJ Performance

-Crankshaft
SBC CHEVY 383 4130 Forged Steel Crankshaft 350 6" Rod - KMJ Performance
I'd steer away from ProComp rods, maybe look at some Scats for a budget piece. Also the Blueprint engines listed- I have not used them but I have heard of problems with them, not as bad as Jasper but problems nonetheless.
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
I'd steer away from ProComp rods, maybe look at some Scats for a budget piece. Also the Blueprint engines listed- I have not used them but I have heard of problems with them, not as bad as Jasper but problems nonetheless.
Alrighty ill look at the scats thanks.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 09:15 PM
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you dont have a car,LISTEN to ap72,the cheapest 600 hp engine is a turbo 5.3,find a car for that engine. Gen 1 is not that practical anymore
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
Gen 1 is not that practical anymore
Although it's hard to accept, you're correct.
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
All my street nitrous motors were stock crank, stock rods, stock block.
Most were cast pistons. I personally have never hurt a piston with nitrous.
And I have hit them with a lot more than you need to even consider, to go fast.

All you need is a decent 350 with forged flat top pistons. 5.7 rods.

Spend your money on good high octane gas and stuff that will make it go fast.
Cylinder heads, fuel system etc. The Brodix IK200 is a good head for this.

If you want to hit it hard with nitrous, using (good) pump gas. (as hard as practically possible) build with a conservative modest compression ratio. The nitrous makes the power.
So your saying a cast crank and cast rods will hold up to 600hp? I ask because even the forged I beam rods say they are only good for 550hp.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Although it's hard to accept, you're correct.
Seems everything i get into is always on its way out. The 350 was cool for 60 years and the second i get into it its on its way out. I cant win. Im totally understanding that new technoligy rules. I use to do the 4 cyl. thing. But all the computer controlled stuff seems like a huge can of worms. It seems like its going to complicate the heck out of this project.
Am i wrong in my assumptions?

Last edited by kentactic; 11-25-2012 at 10:41 PM.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
So your saying a cast crank and cast rods will hold up to 600hp? I ask because even the forged I beam rods say they are only good for 550hp.
With a 250 shot your pushing it and stand a chance of burning the piston with cast. It just gets to hot with the juice.
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