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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:14 PM
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BluePrint Engines GM 383 C.I.D. Stroker Base Dressed Crate Engines BP38313CTC1 - SummitRacing.com


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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
Seems like you must be buying some really fancy parts for them. If you wanted to you could complete them for around $650 for everything with good parts.
I see. All my guesstimations are based on what random parts i click on, on the internet coupled with the "its going to cost you millions of dollars to do this 600hp motor!!!" people. So i figured 1k... im really hoping this machinist guy can get me grounded better on wth i need to do this right at a good price. He seems to know his stuff.

Like i said im all ears. If you guys want to link all the parts youd use in your head i will totally look it over and then show my machinist and if he concours perhaps that will be the route i will go.

There seems to be two camps on this forum. The "it costs millions" guys and the "its not very expensive to build" guys.

Im not sure which is closer to reality. I need to build it right and reliable and tough for nitrous. But at the same time im not looking for top of the line parts either.

Last edited by kentactic; 11-25-2012 at 08:31 PM.
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:21 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
Its not a kit more me piecing a kit together. I think im looking at the right stuff. This is just me clicking around guessing the exacts of what i need. The darn machinist says i should run 6'' rods. Im not sure if that means i am building a 383 stroker (i dont think i want to do this) or if it makes it a 355 or what...so anyways... theres the main parts. So anyways i through the 383 crank in there...

-Rods
SMALL BLOCK CHEVY 383 350 406 4340 6" Connecting Rods - KMJ Performance

-Pistons
Sbc Small Block Chevy 350 Forged 6in Rod Ft Pistons Set - KMJ Performance

-Crankshaft
SBC CHEVY 383 4130 Forged Steel Crankshaft 350 6" Rod - KMJ Performance
I'd steer away from ProComp rods, maybe look at some Scats for a budget piece. Also the Blueprint engines listed- I have not used them but I have heard of problems with them, not as bad as Jasper but problems nonetheless.
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
I'd steer away from ProComp rods, maybe look at some Scats for a budget piece. Also the Blueprint engines listed- I have not used them but I have heard of problems with them, not as bad as Jasper but problems nonetheless.
Alrighty ill look at the scats thanks.
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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 09:10 PM
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All my street nitrous motors were stock crank, stock rods, stock block.
Most were cast pistons. I personally have never hurt a piston with nitrous.
And I have hit them with a lot more than you need to even consider, to go fast.

All you need is a decent 350 with forged flat top pistons. 5.7 rods.

Spend your money on good high octane gas and stuff that will make it go fast.
Cylinder heads, fuel system etc. The Brodix IK200 is a good head for this.

If you want to hit it hard with nitrous, using (good) pump gas. (as hard as practically possible) build with a conservative modest compression ratio. The nitrous makes the power.
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  #111 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 09:15 PM
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you dont have a car,LISTEN to ap72,the cheapest 600 hp engine is a turbo 5.3,find a car for that engine. Gen 1 is not that practical anymore
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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 09:55 PM
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Gen 1 is not that practical anymore
Although it's hard to accept, you're correct.
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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
All my street nitrous motors were stock crank, stock rods, stock block.
Most were cast pistons. I personally have never hurt a piston with nitrous.
And I have hit them with a lot more than you need to even consider, to go fast.

All you need is a decent 350 with forged flat top pistons. 5.7 rods.

Spend your money on good high octane gas and stuff that will make it go fast.
Cylinder heads, fuel system etc. The Brodix IK200 is a good head for this.

If you want to hit it hard with nitrous, using (good) pump gas. (as hard as practically possible) build with a conservative modest compression ratio. The nitrous makes the power.
So your saying a cast crank and cast rods will hold up to 600hp? I ask because even the forged I beam rods say they are only good for 550hp.
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Although it's hard to accept, you're correct.
Seems everything i get into is always on its way out. The 350 was cool for 60 years and the second i get into it its on its way out. I cant win. Im totally understanding that new technoligy rules. I use to do the 4 cyl. thing. But all the computer controlled stuff seems like a huge can of worms. It seems like its going to complicate the heck out of this project.
Am i wrong in my assumptions?

Last edited by kentactic; 11-25-2012 at 10:41 PM.
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  #115 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
So your saying a cast crank and cast rods will hold up to 600hp? I ask because even the forged I beam rods say they are only good for 550hp.
With a 250 shot your pushing it and stand a chance of burning the piston with cast. It just gets to hot with the juice.
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  #116 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
So your saying a cast crank and cast rods will hold up to 600hp? I ask because even the forged I beam rods say they are only good for 550hp.
Some threads reach a point where you just have to repeat yourself.

It isn't reasonable that someone else's adventures have to made into your own.Our professional built race engines are built to handle more,alot more,than they see.

And after all it's your money.................
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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:45 PM
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As far a MPG the late model stuff cant be beat. If I walk down the staging lanes at a track I can probably count on one hand the cars using LS or Vortec stuff.

I think the GEN 1 stuff still rules the track.
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
Some threads reach a point where you just have to repeat yourself.

It isn't reasonable that someone else's adventures have to made into your own.Our professional built race engines are built to handle more,alot more,than they see.

And after all it's your money.................
Ya i realize weve been over this already but yet again im being told in plain english that so and so will work. So i ask for confirmation. Either it works or it dosent. I have stated 600hp as my goal. I then am told i can get away with a stock bottom end with forged pistons. So i confirm this with a more specific question and then recieve a "well with that power your pushing it". It seems some have total other builds in mind as they give me advice for mine. Im grateful for all the posts in this thread. But i have to filter through all this to figure out what applies to my build.
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
you dont have a car,LISTEN to ap72,the cheapest 600 hp engine is a turbo 5.3,find a car for that engine. Gen 1 is not that practical anymore
You know what Vinnie.Someone else told him that.Hummm who would that be??.Opps it was me.LOL.Well he rejected a LSx option.I agree with you in that the way he is going about this he is going to have in a Gen 1 as much money or even more than he would have in LSx and end up with a Gen 1.Five yrs later he's going to be kicking himself then.
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  #120 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
Ya i realize weve been over this already but yet again im being told in plain english that so and so will work. So i ask for confirmation. Either it works or it dosent. I have stated 600hp as my goal. I then am told i can get away with a stock bottom end with forged pistons. So i confirm this with a more specific question and then recieve a "well with that power your pushing it". It seems some have total other builds in mind as they give me advice for mine. Im grateful for all the posts in this thread. But i have to filter through all this to figure out what applies to my build.
Go with a good crank and forged pistons and use the 250 shot. Pay attention to detail in the tune.
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