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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 05:39 PM
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Sorry, I was thinking cut-off when I replied angle grinder. Thanks for catching that.

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Old 02-27-2013, 06:38 PM
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Hey guys, here is the shot of the rust. This is next to the rear window.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...psb996cf0f.jpg
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:40 PM
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Here is an odd crack as well. It came through the old crappy paint. It seems as if though the metal has cracked.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps8e98958d.jpg
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:10 PM
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First off, is that all of the rust regarding the roof? Is it on both sides of the C pillar (the C pillar is the area in front of the rear window and the top of the roof)? The area showing the cracking looks like body filler cracking after water has seeped underneath the filler. All of the at old filler needs to be removed, the metal cleaned up and reworked.

In permalink #15 I asked several questions...now might be a good time to answer them...I'm going to try and give you the best advice I can and in order to do that I'm going to need more information. I want you to have a car that your proud of and happy with and I just want to make sure that the investment your planning on making is financially sound.

Ray
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:30 PM
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Yeah thats pretty much all the rust, and a bubble on the drivers quarter panels. Heres the low down. Its a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger Custom. 904 Automatic. 100% clean interior with no cracks or tears in interior (The gloss is even still on the wood grain). It has a 318 V8. I bought the car from a 97 year old woman who was the Original Owner and I have tons of records as well dating back to 1976. 97k miles original with all build sheets . And my friend has a mig welder he said I can borrow! Im SO EXCITED !!! And its a 2 door got it for $2000

Last edited by 79bird; 02-27-2013 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:31 PM
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OK...That helps a lot...the fact that it's a 2 door is great and that the rust doesn't seem as bad (from the pictures...remember I said from the pictures) as first described. What if any tools do you have? For example a compressor, a DA (Dual Action sander), Pneumatic cut off wheel or electric, any body hammers, dolly's, sanding blocks, spray guns's and so on? These are tools that will come in extremely handy. So let me know what you've got and we'll take it from there.

Ray
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:43 PM
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I need you to understand that this is a fairly big task even for many experienced people and it will take an awful lot of work...if your up for it I'll give you all the advice I can. Be prepared to get frustrated, a lot of work is tedious and in some cases mind numbing.

Just another couple of quick questions...do you have a shop or a garage? AND Are you prepared to strip the car? With the type of rust you have (C Pillar, quarter panels etc.) if you strip the car you can get rid of all the rust before you spend money on material and paint over top of it...leading to starting over again or what happens all to often, giving up in frustration.

Ray
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:45 PM
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I honestly am only 18 and dont have access to these tools. I absolutely love old cars and its my life passion! But I can for sure borrow alot of tools from my neighbor who has a 1970 Cuda. I am also willing to rent the tools. Im just thinking about straight up cutting and welding a piece on. If I have to hand sand something since I dont have access to power tools, I dont mind. But again, almost everybody on my street has alot of tools. I think the angle grinder is my best bet. Cant it just be as easy as cut and weld on?
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:13 PM
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When I was your age that car was brand new and I was building my 67 Firebird. If you don't have tools but can borrow some, your going to need to borrow some. I'm glad to hear that this is your passion...your going to need a lot of passion.

An angle grinder is going to make it difficult to cut patch panels the same size as the panel you cut out. There is a right way and a wrong way to repair rust and butt welding panels that are cut just a hairline smaller than the rusted metal you take out. I wish it was as easy as cut and weld...I've made patch panels that take hours, cutting, forming, trimming tack welding, hammer and dolly, more welding...more hammer and dolly...it goes on and on.

When are you planning on starting?

Ray
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:50 PM
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I plan to paint the entire car anyways, as soon as I get the money. I plan on starting the whole project maybe towards the end of March which is spring break! And I have a garage/ driveway as well. What is your recommend way to solve this rust issue? What are your ideal tools and methods? Materials?
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:22 PM
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The ideal way to do rust repair is...number 1 and foremost...strip the car. If you don't take all the existing paint off, you could be and in all probability are painting over some areas that are rusted. When the car is stripped, rusted areas that where covered by old paint and will come out after the car has been repainted.

Rust should be cut out and a patch welded in. The patch panel should be made of the same thickness of steel as the rest of the body...in your case I believe it's 22 gauge, but, I'll double check to be sure. Where you have rust, you don't just cut the rusted area out, you need to remove enough metal around the rusted area, look at the back of the metal to make sure that you have all the rusted area removed and have sufficient metal to weld too. After all the rusted areas are looked after, several coats of Epoxy primer need to be applied (it is also possible to prime the car with Epoxy primer 1 panel at a time, that way you minimize surface rust on initial panels that had been worked). Then you apply filler, we can get into the ways of applying filler when we get to that point. After the filler/body work is done, the whole car gets re-primed and block sanded until it is perfectly straight. Then the car is painted...simple right...no...there are many things that you will learn and it is anything but easy.

That covers methods to a point, every situation may require a different method or technique which will be covered at the appropriate time. As far as materials, it's a long list which I will give you in the form of a Private Message...(Not because I don't want to do it here but I'm getting tired, it's almost 12:30 AM where I am and I have and early meeting in the morning)

When it comes to tools, I would like to know what you have available and will give you a list to look for in the PM.

Sound OK?

Ray
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:58 AM
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I would like to add this, start with some part unseen. An inside panel, a floor or something like that. The first panel you cut, to weld in, is not going to fit. probably the second panel is not going to fit, but it will fit better.

The first panel I replaced was on a rusted wheel barrel. Yes, it was ridiculous to repair the pan on the wheel barrel, instead of replacing the wheel barrel, unless you count the experience gained. The second set of panels, another wheel barrel. Did I mention we use the wheel barrels on a horse farm for just moving manure?

Now, I am working on the floor of a Datsun pickup,

This is trial fitting a piece for the floor.

This is test fitting a second piece for the floor, the main floor piece.

Along the way, I made this template,

I cut the two piece to fit together.

Kick panel cut.

Welded them together.

Along the way I made this simple die.

To make this dimple for a body mount bolt.

And I had to make another piece for the wheel well.


Any way, here is a picture of the floor piece ready to put in the cab. I think.


This is a project I am currently working on, I am not sure how it will turn out until I am done.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2013, 07:36 AM
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Just wanted to throw this out there also, It looks like you will need to take the back window out to do the repairs. It may have already been mentioned, but I didn't see it anywhere. For filler, my personal preference is evercoat's "Z-Grip". It is cost effective, easy to work with and sands easily. The rage line of fillers is also a good choice. For tools to do the repairs, I would recommend at the very least, Angle die grinder, 1/16" cut off wheel for the angle grinder you have mentions, sheet metal shears, and body hammers. That will get you a good start on fixing it. I noticed you said your neighbors had tools and maybe a few cars as well? Maybe they could come over and help you get started with it? Just a thought, because a lot of this can be explained and you can read and learn a LOT of helpful information, but there is no replacement for experience sometimes. Like someone else mentioned, I highly recommend welding, patching etc on something that doesn't matter before you start on the car. Even if you get some scrap metal and weld on and cut out pieces and weld them back in so on and so forth. get a feel for the welder and the process before you try it on the car. Best of luck with it, You will find a wealth of knowledge and help from the other guys on here.

Kelly
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:57 AM
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I want to thank ALL of you guys for your help! I am really looking forward to doing this project! Thanks again! I will keep you all posted on the status!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2013, 10:13 AM
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I'm doing rust repair on my car now and there's no way in hell I'm using any bondo. The previous owner sold me the car saying he "fixed all the rust" which i was very happy about. After sanding it down i found out that this thing must have 5 gallons of bondo on it. He didn't replace any metal! Just bondo! I was furious. Do it right the first time. The rust will come back if you don't cut it out.
You can use an angle grinder for bigger areas. I use a dremel with a cutting bit for small areas. Some guys use a plasma cutter but I'd worry about warping the metal. I guess in small areas it would be ok.
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