my newborn crapped his die-dees: l.e.d lights all blew up - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 08-15-2002, 09:33 AM
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Post my newborn crapped his die-dees: l.e.d lights all blew up

if your read about my new firing of my truck you noticed i blew 2-3 fuses. well say good bye to $130 worth of new led tail/stop & marker lights, as well as the conventional bulbs in the front. i believe this all happened before i put my air cleaner on and shorted the hell out of everything because all my lights quit working before that. i got major problems with my wiring. my painless fuse box protected my lights w/15A and 10A fuses. they are still good. the parts cat. for TruckLite lights rates these led's at .030Amps per led(each lite had 6 leds. thats 30 milliamps. they should have an inline fuse at the smallest i can find. like 1A. so much for the "painless" part of this project. i have replaced my license light's bulb and will start the motor again and see what happens. lots cheaper. as you culd imagine, valley freightliner doesn't replace blown electrical parts. now get this: TruckLite's tech dept told me (after i told them i had a big short) that they would tell the dealer to replace all my lights for me!!! provided that i put inline fuses on my wires at whatever the operating combined current is. Anybody know of some common mistakes wiring vehicles that could cause my conventional bulbs to blow up to the point of the glass shell breaking? my ignition was unaffected i have a ballast resistor in front of my mallory uni-lite module and it lived!! **** i followed all the directions. jeeezus!! i cant believe i make my living as an electrician, maybe that's why I'm almost $30K in debt. :o

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Old 08-15-2002, 05:47 PM
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i've been thinking about this for a bit. This is a very strange situation. If you had a serious short, i don't see how you could be blowing lamps because the short would go right to ground and wouldn't affect the bulbs. Then i thought the only way you could blow lamps on a circuit was if you were supplying more than 12V to the lamps, and this would cause them to blow, but not as serious as what you describe. Then i thought about your comment, i fired my truck. Is it possible that you have somehow wired your power supply wire for your lamps from your ignition coil? This would give you very high voltage and would cause a lot of damage. That's the only thing i can think of, is that you somehow hooked into your ignition circuit. Where did you get your power from for your lights?

Hope this helps.

JB
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Old 08-15-2002, 08:03 PM
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How old is your alternator and regulator? Have you had it checked for proper operation?
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Old 08-16-2002, 08:47 AM
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I agree with 4Jaw, I had a regulator go bad and my alt. was putting out 24volts. Happened at night and blew every bulb in the car.
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Old 08-16-2002, 09:44 AM
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wow, you guys nailed it. i put a voltmeter on my alternator last night and it was putting out 37 volts. enought to fry everything (except the fuses of course) i tried another alternator and it didn't work because it was a 3 wire and i am not using an external voltage regulator. i am picking one up tonight. what worries me <img src="graemlins/sweat.gif" border="0" alt="[sweat]" /> it that this alternator worked fine before this job. so i feel something caused my alternators regulator to blow up. but... talked to the alt. shop they explained that i can use a mid 80's alt with an internal regulator and just excite it. there is the Bat+ post on the alt, then to the left (from the front) is a two prong plug in. the spade nearest the + post just gets a jumper from that post. the farther one gets the exciter and i should go to radio shack and put a 10 ohm resistor in line. i have to go there anyway to get the .063Amp fuses for my l.e.d. tail lights. if i blow up my new alternator i'll let you know but thanks to all for cluing me in i have to check to see where the powers coming from, somewhere from my painless fuse box. since it's friday i can not reply (or get wised up) till monday after 5pm pst today

[ August 16, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]

I am editing this to tell anybody that it's wrong. the jumper from the + terminal goes to the spade farthest away not closest to. that is where the exciter goes from the key/ign. and it HAS TO HAVE A 10 OHM, 10 WATT RESISTOR IN LINE OR THE ALT WILL PUT OUT TOO MANY VOLTS AND BLOW UP EVERYTHING IN THE TRUCK- AHHHHH <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />

[ August 20, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]</p>
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