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From what you are saying I think you are pretty good the way that you are..Why do we need to move this thing anyway??..if it is just for cosmetic reasons maybe not..Now if there is some functional reason then we move the thing..
Just from my own take if it does not work it is not pretty.. If you insist perhaps you can go to someone like Art Morrison and they can tell you the various lengths of racks that they use..other wise it may be off to the pic-a-part to measure some racks.. Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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My rack is to small
Hi Sam
The problem is that the Boot just comes in contact with the lower “A” arm and over time would cause a hole in the boot even using the smallest boot that fits. Also how would I contact Art Morrison is he on the Web? Was just looking at the post of the IFS braking, nasty. That’s why I’m building mine using 1.25” Dom tubing and .25 steel for cross member and mounting points with support gussets. This is the 1936 in the photo at top. Iceman |
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Just go to artmorrison.com and they do carry some different racks..One of those may work..I have had to do some compromising in design in order to get things to work out in the past..
Also do some searching around in google for R&P steering..that may help.. it does however seem that just a small relocation may do you in this case.. Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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My Rack is to small
Something that may help others setting things up and taking bump steer measurements. I bought a bump steer gage that had one dial indicator witch worked fine but was hard to (zero out). So I got a digital one that you just position at your starting point and press the zero button. So with the gage mounted at the back of the wheel when it toes in I get a positive number like + .010 and a toes out condition gives me a negative number right on the gage. No math or guessing involved, also a small digital level setting on top of my bump steer plate is easer than trying to see and adjust a bubble level built into my gage. But when you move the setup to the other side make sure your gage is in the same place or be AWARE of the negative / positive switching from front to rear of wheel.
Iceman |
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This is the best I have. It is a link because the image is HUGE!!!
http://www.thesocalbigdawgs.com/vb/g...-1/RPGuide.gif |
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You may wish to consider a CTO Rack. CTO is center take off as used on things like Skylarks and GM offerings in that size group. The tie rods bolt to the center of the rack. I chose this rack to (try to) reduce bump steer potential
My problem is the opposite. I can't get the rack between my quarter elliptic springs. So, I've taken about an inch and a half off the rack by trimming the gear end and shortening the power steering cylinder. Still, It looks like I'll have to make new spring mounts. |
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This title made me think of a girl I know.....
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My Rack is too small...
I know where you can get an operation to take care of that... But do you really want man-boobs? Anyway, check out maval. (unisteer), they have an order form for several types of custom rack. http://www.unisteer.com/help/index.p...5&pcid=0&nav=0 That's a cool chart Triaged, I printed it out for addition to my library. Later, mikey
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my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular.. BE different....ACT normal. No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example |
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My Rack is to small
Quote:
see Photo below Iceman |
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Many rebuilders use those part numbers. Cardone for one. Put the part #'s in here and it will give you some info.
http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/...cat/sbyprd.asp Maybe you could find out the length of the inner tie-rod from the application list and subtract that from the overall width? |
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| Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos |
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