You heard tires rubbing fenders. There aren't any scratches on the frame yet, I checked yesterday.

I don't have any guages in it. I judge by how mych wheel sticks up over the rear notch, then I level out the door.

So I stuck the new carb on today. Its still dumping fuel and running like ****. It still sputers a little bit, and it won't idle at all now. I got out the manual and retraced all 38 vacuum lines to make sure they were correct. Everything is where it should be. I really don't know what to do at this point. It was running awesome at Danger Zone. Now it runs like ******* again. It was much worse with the old carb, but its still not passable. And to make things worse, my extension is up in 5 days and I don't know if I can get a 4th one..

You just have to get it registered right? Register it as a non-op for now. Then you have plenty of time to get it fixed...Just can't drive it on the road.

Yeah there you go its a way out for now. Forgot about that stupid law Ca law where they keep charging you. for a non running car or truck. One more reason why I move.

Craig

There no reason I can think of for this to happen other that to much fuel pressure.
So back again to trouble shooting you system. everything related to the engine.
So ask your self why! problem to much fuel What's missing a fuel regulator from stock? bring over a buddies truck test compare it to yours. Run the fuel line off you buddies truck see your carb what happen.
Last is the motor right! timing it not of a degree or so!
One by one it not this! move on to the next possible thing it could be.

Craig

I can't do this because of the fix it tickets. I tried to re non op it a while back, before I even got the tickets and they told me its already still on nonop. But with the tickets I have a strict deadline before I start building up fines for not havin git impounded and for not having it registered. I have until the 12th before my extension is up. I don't know how many I can get.




There is no fuel regulator from stock. I even installed a Holley fuel regulator and it didnt do a darn thing. We checked the timing with a light, and its within factory specs (8 degrees advanced with the vacuum advance, 5 with it plugged). The fuel line on my neighbors truck is larger than mine, I'm running 1/4" line his is 5/16".

I think he got a ticket for no registration.

I don't think you can do a non-op until all that gets squared away.

Bummer.

Mikey

(didn't see you posted that already)

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What is the manifold vacuum reading?

I'm wodering if the vac is low and it is causing the power valve (or whatever toy calls the enrichment circuit), to kick in.

That would make it drool fuel down in the venturi like that.

Just a thought.

Mikey

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I checked that a while back to make sure it worked, and tested it with the carb apart to make sure it could move freely.

And you're right about having to square away my registration before I can legally nonop it again.

What i meant was how much vacuum is your motor pulling when it is running?


Timing off, valves too tight, intake manifold leaks, long cams can all cause low vacuum.

Most stock cars run about 16 to20 " of vacuum at just above an idle. Hit the gas or load the motor down and the vacuum drops for a second. That's when a power valve or enrichment circuit will come on to cover up the leanness caused by a vacuum drop.

If the enrichment circuit is set to come on at 12" of vacuum and you only have 11" then the carb will pour raw fuel in through the booster venturi.

Get a vacuum gauge and put it directly on a vacuum port on the manifold. See what it reads.


later, mikey

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Another thing that can cause a low vacuum situation is a leaky or erratically operating EGR valve. The valve leaks or opens at the wrong time, dumping some exhaust gas pressure into the intake tract, the vacuum in the intake drops, the enrichment circuit comes on and starts to drizzle fuel.

Just another thought I had while was working on MY FIRST minitruck job .

( lifting up a 2001 S10 from being previously lowered)
later, mikey

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Thanks, I 'll check my EGR valve. Its still stock, and 30 years old. May be defetive.

Twisted, I'm not sure if this has been suggested, but it seems like you just need to break everything down fuel related and go through it from start to finish. Trying to trouble shoot a certain thing and hoping, doesn't seem to be working. I'm not harping on you, but it seems it may be the only thing you can do, considering your deadline.

I can remember when I had problems on one of my first cars that the main problem was I was going for the easy fix and just couldn't bear to see the work I had done, go backwards. Like my powder coating adventure I'm in. I should have done that a long time ago, but basically liked looking at what I had done and didn't want to tear it apart. Now I realize that there is not an easy way, if you want good results.

He's tried 3 different carbs and all of them do the same thing.
(maybe 4, he didn't say if he tried his buddys 20 r carb)

There isn't anything in that fuel system that he hasn't checked already.
As the very nature of a carburator is to respond to the demands that a motor puts on it, and changes in flow through the venturis and intake vacuum levels dictate how a carb reacts,

I'd be looking for symptoms of some other type of problem, not related to the fuel system.

I had a car do exactly the same thing a while back. It had low vacuum. About 8" and it was a basically stock motor and normally had 17". The main problem was that it poured raw fuel down the venturies and ran like crap. It wouldn't even pull 2nd gear on level ground, nor would it idle. .

I looked at everything I could. Rebuilt the carb twice, checked for vacuum leaks, readjusted the valves. Tune up, timed it again and again. I even took the intake off and checked it for cracks.

It turned out that there was an exhast heat passage that burned a hole through a plug that someone else, ( not me), had plugged so they could run a different carb without a heat isolater. It put exhaust pressure into the intake, dropping the vacuum, opening the enrichment circuit, and dumping raw fuel into the plenum.

A faulty EGR valve or faulty EGR controls will do exactly the same thing.


I have not seen anywhere in this thread where he's tested the EGR or put a vacuum gauge on that motor.

Which is one of the first things I'd do with any carburated motor that was displaying the symptoms he describes.

I dont think that looking at the things I've suggested are ...

Evaluating the symptoms and looking at what might cause them is what will find the problem.

Later, mikey

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Mikey, I thing you right on I belive I ask about the EGR a while back. But if its old crap your putting back on your engine That to me is a NONO!

Craig