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My SPARK PLUGS keep burning out on me after a quick drive.
I have a 1970 Nova. It has a 355 sbc with factory HEI setup. I have LT1 heads (Aluminum), 10.2:1 pistons, 1.6 rockers, shorty headers, ZZ4 cam,
holley contender intake, 750 double pumper.nks I had a set of NGK type r spark plugs and they burned up, and engine would not start. I replaced the spark plugs agian with a set of AC Delco plugs for a 1993 camaro, and it started on a dime but after going around block once, they did not work again like the first couple of start ups. I can start car but only if I crank it for a long time. what kind of plugs do I get? Can the spark plug wires cause this? Thanks, JD |
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Are they black when you pull the plugs? Do they smell like gas? They may be fouling because you are running too rich.
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Spark plugs burning
Yes sure they smell like loads of gasoline and are black. Can I clean them? Or should I get a new pair?
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You can clean them with a wire brush. Get most of the black carbon off and then use 220 grit sandpaper to clean the area where the spark happens. Finish by blowing the loose material away with compressed air.
Are all of your plugs black or just a couple? If they are all black then you are probably running too rich and need adjustments to your carb. If only a couple are black it may be other problems. |
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Timing numbers
The timing on my cam and crank are set to zero and the Distributor i'm not sure. It starts on a dime though when I got good plugs lol.
Thanks jd |
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All plugs are wet fouled
Yes all of the spark plugs are black with gas. Since you mentioned to rich,
I'm almost certain it could be the Carb. It's a double pumper. I had one before on a trans am and it bogged the crap out of it. Can I run a higher voltage coil to solve problem? The car doesn't blow smoke or bog down. Thanks, JD |
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Geez, get the fuel pressure under control. No modern 4-bbl carburetor needs more than 5 psi fuel pressure. More pressure than that will blow fuel past the needle and seat right into the intake manifold.
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If your plugs are gas fouling, it doesn't matter which plugs you use, if even if your ignition is nuclear fission powered, it's still gonna foul them. Like Techinspector said, gotta get your carb and fuel pressure sorted out. I seriously doubt your timing is helping either. With that cam, you probably gonna want about 12° to 14° of initial timing. I'd definitely do that next, then bead blast or replace your plugs, and see what's up with the carb/fuel pressure.
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1970 cars had a points ignition. If running a HEI you must ensure the thing is getting a full 12 volt power. if not replace the resistance wire between the distributor and fire wall joint.
Check the cylinder head casting number. LT-1 aluminum heads are GEN II design and are not compatable with a gen 1 block. (water passages) Which heads do you really have? casting number under valve cover. get a timing light The carb's power valve diagram may be pouched. That will make it run real rich and foul the plugs. 750cfm DP carb use a 70pri 80sec jet and 6.5" power valve. Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-24-2010 at 04:35 PM. |
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At this point, I would get it started and be looking down the carb and see if fuel is driping from the boosters (float level high) if not, I would check the power valve or check ball missing from the accelerator pumps.
I can give you an old troublshooting card from holley to give you some ideas to check out. You'll have to enlarge it a bit~! Hope it helps. |
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Fixed the spark plug problem
It was the fuel pressure. There was so much pressure that the gas was leaking into the intake after the car was off. Plugs were fine after about 2hrs of sitting. Car started right up fine after I fixed the pressure problem.
Also about the heads GenII on GENI, it can be done. The setup that I have is a 4-bolt 350 out of a 77 chevy truck, converted to a newer roller style sbc. I welded certain water ports closed and redrilled them to the proper size for the GENI gasket style. If you do not do this, then water will drop directly into the lifter alley. I have 1.6 rockers for the LT1 heads and higher poundage springs. The heads are ported all the way. and gasket matched. Gasket is regular felpro standard size. I have a holley contender intake, and 10:1 Hyp-pistons. I got very good results! I got great torque! I punched the gas last week on Tuesday and CRACKED my tranny housing LOL. If you guys are interested I can give you more details on the build. Also for the 1985 Chevy 350, Honing is a very fast procedure and is very very easy, and not to mention ALOT CHEAPER then machine shop. Details on my build: Heads $40 from craigslist Porting did myself Intake $30 craigslist Rockers new $60 craigslist Valve covers $10 junk yard Pistons and piston rings new and gasket kit for 350 sbc $156.23 ebay Carburetur $100 from craigslist Honing tool and piston compressor tool ~ $23 Cam ZZ4 $50 craigslist Roller lifters and push rods about $65 ebay Total around $550 machine shop over $2.2K - $3k because of custom welding and misc bull! LMAO! |
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No solids
I think the tranny just had it coming lol! It cracked near the tail. I think car was a dust collector until I got a hold of it. Probably sized up while I punched it and cracked not sure. I got a new tranny b&m specs and can burn tire with gas not pressed down far at all. I did a dyno last week and Torque was 463.
I have v belts, alternator, pwr stering, ac pump, fan clutch. I plan to gain at least 15hp more taking all this to electric. |
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