[carsonschaos]

I know Nason is a lower end paint, but since I'm
a lower end learning painter, what would the best
choice be for a clear Nason.
I remember reading through some old threads and thought
I saw were a higher end dupont clear was downgraded to Nason making room for a new higher end clear.
It's going to be used on a bike tank.

[jcclark]

I have a Nasson clear and was very impressed with it.
(I didn't know they had different choices in the Nasson line??)
It does get rock hard in a couple of days so don't wait to long to buff.
It also is hard to keep wet and flow so use a slower reducer.
It is one of the best clears for clarity and brilliance of any I've used.
It's not my favorite economy clear, but it's among the best.
I wouldn't pay more for the DuPont brand.

[Bee4Me]

It's a good "cheap" clear for sure.
They have 2 versions,
497 is an overall or complete paint job clear coat.
496 is a spot or panel repair for quick jobs.
Both use the same catylist which has different temp ratings for the conditions.
Each has a different mix ratio so check the can for that.
497 is 3:1 496 is 4:1 I believe. I have to LOOK myself to be sure. Senior moment thing and all. LOL...

[Countilaw]

Nason isn't really a low end paint. It's just a cheaper version of Dupont paint.

I've used it for years and have always been very happy with it.
I agree with both B4mee and jcclark.

[oldred]

Yep you have those ratios right , I agree with these guys I have had really good results with Nason clear but on a hot day the 496 dries almost instantly! It is ok for spot paint and small pieces but I would not recommend an overall with it. The 497 flows out good and buffs great but like JC said don't wait more than a few days before buffing, it will still buff out just fine it is just more work.

[carsonschaos]

Sorry for all the questions.
I assume you can get Bases and primers in Nason.
I worked in body shops when I was in my late teens early 20's.
I'm now 43.
LOT'S of things have changed in 20 years.

[jcclark]

Originally Posted by carsonschaos

LOT'S of things have changed in 20 years.

You got that right!
Everytime I just about figure it out, it changes.
I did lacquer in the 70's
Acrylic Enamel in the 80's
and Basecoat/clearcoat in the 90's
Makes me scared to think what's next,
maybe water based?
(It may be time for me to quit painting)

[Bee4Me]

The way I see it, it's getting easier with each "new" way.
Who knows,the water base "could" be easier than bc/cc eventually.

Nason's base line is "ok" and I use their solid colors but if it's a metallic,go with Chromabase, Their primers are great but I'm not real happy with their sealer,Again,I'd go Chroma for it.

[duallybuster]

Nason is ok, but you can get cheaper clear that shoots and shines better than Nason. We use Montana EZ clear. When I was taught to paint the painter started me off on HOC candies. He said that if you can shoot this stuff right, then you can shoot anything. Candies will show you what you can and can't do. Now as far as Clears go, If I were teaching you I'd start you off on LIMCO clear. It's one of the hardest clears to shoot in my opinion. It will drop on you in the blink of an eye. It will show you how far, how fast and how wet.

Good luck, and remember you will only get better if you do it everyday.

[Countilaw]

I have found Xtreme Clear to be really good and the price is right to. $65.00 a gallon and that includes the activator. Plus $19.00 shipping.

I get it here: URL=http://www.paintforcars.com/clearcoat_urethane.html]Xtreme Clear with activator $65.00 [/URL]

This hood was painted with Xtreme and this is before Color sanding and buffing:



Frank

[BondoKing]

Frank I in no way am being a jerk, but I have seen you post that pic and say it was Xtreme, then post and say it was SPI.. Then saw you post it and say it had Xtreme on the bottom as an intercoat, then SPI..

What Gives here.. It is really confusing if others follow more than one forum.. It does not give either product an accurate account...


Here in this thread you tell everyone its SPI...

Supposed to be SPI Clear here

[mrcleanr6]

Originally Posted by duallybuster

Nason is ok, but you can get cheaper clear that shoots and shines better than Nason. We use Montana EZ clear. When I was taught to paint the painter started me off on HOC candies. He said that if you can shoot this stuff right, then you can shoot anything. Candies will show you what you can and can't do. Now as far as Clears go, If I were teaching you I'd start you off on LIMCO clear. It's one of the hardest clears to shoot in my opinion. It will drop on you in the blink of an eye. It will show you how far, how fast and how wet.

Good luck, and remember you will only get better if you do it everyday.

now thats the way to do it!! the candy will show you exactly what you are doing. as crazy as it sounds thats actually probably the best way for someone to learn to spray. i like it!!

[mitmaks]

nason is good clear but there's better like PPG 2000 series.

[Countilaw]

Bondo king you're right, that was SPI, Here's the one with Xtreme:

[mpaq]

Originally Posted by oldred

Yep you have those ratios right , I agree with these guys I have had really good results with Nason clear but on a hot day the 496 dries almost instantly! It is ok for spot paint and small pieces but I would not recommend an overall with it. The 497 flows out good and buffs great but like JC said don't wait more than a few days before buffing, it will still buff out just fine it is just more work.

I have the 497 clear.........can this be reduced? No mention of a reducer requirement on the can or spec sheets, just 3:1 clear/activator...