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Old 11-10-2010, 10:12 PM
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Nason Ful-Thane over PPG Primer

Hi Guys,

I have never used nason ful-thane before but I would like to use it to paint my truck frame. I have used PPG in the past and have a lot of PPG NCP 280 epoxy primer that I would like to use. My question is can I use ful-thane over this PPG primer or should I use Nason primer? If so, what Nason primer do I use, epoxy or urethane?

thanks,
skipper

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Old 11-11-2010, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc356s
Hi Guys,

I have never used nason ful-thane before but I would like to use it to paint my truck frame. I have used PPG in the past and have a lot of PPG NCP 280 epoxy primer that I would like to use. My question is can I use ful-thane over this PPG primer or should I use Nason primer? If so, what Nason primer do I use, epoxy or urethane?

thanks,
skipper
Yes with it's 285 hardner 2parts280 to 1part 285 with a capful of acetone per mixed once to help it flow through a standard 1.4 tip, 6 minutes between coats, give it 18 hours, block/sand with 400grit, ready for topcoating...

Last edited by milo; 11-11-2010 at 01:57 AM.
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Old 11-11-2010, 05:36 AM
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Sure theres no reason it wont work just follow the directions for the primer ..Then follow the directions for the paint...
When I prime and paint frames and such I use the epoxy reduced as a sealer so I dont have to do any sanding to get a smooth surface before I paint...check your epoxy to see if it can be reduced before doing it this way though...Some cant..
If it has pitts that you want to fill you would want to use a buildable epoxy and apply two to four coats ,sand when cured and apply two more,more if needed but that should do it
Epoxy is the only way to go on bare metal as far as I'm concerned....be sure to nix it with the proper ingredients..
I like to use a slow reducer for painting frames it helps eliminate the dry or dull look of overspray and you can take your time and not miss any spots..
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Old 11-11-2010, 03:52 PM
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Things are a bit different here in the VOC restricted SF Bay Area.. The tech sheet or the can won't say anything about acetone because to add it would take it outside the VOC limits.

The thread is about a specific product.. It is a self leveling primer surfacer and needs the acetone (10%)to flow not only through the gun but after it's on the panel. The 6 min flash time between coats is so it is wet on wet and can meld...




As usual I don't post outside my experience,

If you would like to read up on the best primer east of the San Francisco Bay Area , here ya go...
needing help finding a good primer surfacer!!!
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:30 AM
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you say its a self leveling primer surfacer....he said its an epoxy...which is it???? I havent used it or even been west of the mississippi but like I said just read the directions on the can or the tech sheet but I would be very surprised if acitone was mentioned anywhere...since there has never been a can of acitone in my shop or any other shop I've ever worked at...maybe a fiberglass shop would have some...best primer I doubt it ...epoxy is best on bare metal..
Nason does make an epoxy primer but its not very good..
Nason ful-thane is pretty darn good for the price....deffinetly good enough for a frame and it's pretty tough stuff...
Still like I said : theres no reason it wouldn't work,just follow the directions reduce it with whatever it says too...If it says use acitone ,so be it ,maybe over here the directions say to use it...
I was at Lowes the other day and looked at a quart of Rustolem primer ,it uses aceitone for reduction so there are primers out there that say to use it just not any of the ones that I've used in 35 yrs. All my primers use reducers.
best primer for bare metal= epoxy .......best epoxy = SPI ....IMHO
So ,I hope I've answeared ALL the posters questions...sure that primer will work ,epoxy would be better,if your going to buy an epoxy primer SPI is the best I've used.But That Nason Ful-Thane is a good choice for paint and will work fine over just about any primer.
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc356s
Hi Guys,

My question is can I use ful-thane over this PPG primer or should I use Nason primer? If so, what Nason primer do I use, epoxy or urethane?

thanks,
skipper
actually this was the question.
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:27 AM
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oh I belive you ,

http://www.bapspaint.com/docs/psheet...tron/P-225.pdf
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:36 AM
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,,,see the part about acetone and VOCs ,., looks like you learn something everyday ,, stay in there..
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
you say its a self leveling primer surfacer....he said its an epoxy...which is it???? I havent used it or even been west of the mississippi but like I said just read the directions on the can or the tech sheet but I would be very surprised if acitone was mentioned anywhere...since there has never been a can of acitone in my shop or any other shop I've ever worked at...maybe a fiberglass shop would have some...best primer I doubt it ...epoxy is best on bare metal..
Nason does make an epoxy primer but its not very good..
Nason ful-thane is pretty darn good for the price....deffinetly good enough for a frame and it's pretty tough stuff...
Still like I said : theres no reason it wouldn't work,just follow the directions reduce it with whatever it says too...If it says use acitone ,so be it ,maybe over here the directions say to use it...
I was at Lowes the other day and looked at a quart of Rustolem primer ,it uses aceitone for reduction so there are primers out there that say to use it just not any of the ones that I've used in 35 yrs. All my primers use reducers.
best primer for bare metal= epoxy .......best epoxy = SPI ....IMHO
So ,I hope I've answeared ALL the posters questions...sure that primer will work ,epoxy would be better,if your going to buy an epoxy primer SPI is the best I've used.But That Nason Ful-Thane is a good choice for paint and will work fine over just about any primer.
Hey DBM, did you read the link he posted? It goes to a thread that says SPI Epoxy is the best, and if it is the best east of the SF bay, then that statement covers darn near the whole 48 states!
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:43 AM
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Thanks for editing the "hayseed" remark ,it makes it a lot easier to keep things on a professional level
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:56 AM
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Stick around , I got more for ya..
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool
Hey DBM, did you read the link he posted? It goes to a thread that says SPI Epoxy is the best, and if it is the best east of the SF bay, then that statement covers darn near the whole 48 states!
No, I couldnt get the link ,I tried but couldnt get it...but I can certainly agree with that ,its the acitone thing I'm having a problem with...I've always concederd it a cheap cleaning solvent not something to reduce good quality primer with...maybe featherfill or some kind of primer like that..... polyester primers....we stopped using that years ago because it sucked up water when wet sanded ....I would like to know some more about this PPG self leveling primer though...
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:12 AM
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Just to throw a wrench into the transmission, let's make this clear, NCP is NOT epoxy, and it is not a urethane either. It is an "iso free" catalyst primer. I forget exactly what it is called, but it is neither.


And in the tech sheet it says.....
"Steel and Galvanized steel MUST be treated with DX 579 / DX 520 Metal Cleaner/
Conditioner or coated with DPX 171 or DPX 170 before applying NCP 280."

because it isn't that great over bare metal. I agree that the epoxy is the way to go on anything like a frame. No sanding, a product that is designed for bare metal, you can't go wrong.

Brian
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
Stick around , I got more for ya..
I'm always willing to learn something new. Whacha got ???
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:22 AM
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No problem ,,
heres what you were looking for from 2006
ppg primer

stay tuned
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