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Old 03-22-2008, 08:14 PM
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nason ful-thane questions?

I shot a couple of parts with this paint in two heavy metalic colors 59' chevy harbor blue dietzler#912-a and frost blue#910-a as a two tone combo. Its turning out better than I expected for the price,but as well as everything is looking now I was wondering if Its OK to hit it with clear? I was going to get the nason 497 if needed. I could also use a few suggestions on cutting and buffing.

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Old 03-22-2008, 10:36 PM
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You can easily apply 3 coats of clear. I have used ful thane by Nason and found it a very good economical paint. I have used different clear on it with no ill effects.

Each painter has his own methods for cutting and buffing. I usually get very little orange peel in my clear. My biggest problem is dirt nib or insects. (I don't have a paint booth). I usually sand with a 800 wet grit and then 1000 wet followed with 1200 wet. Then buff out with a medium compound followed by a swirl remover.

As you get more experience, you will develope your own techniques.

Frank
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Old 03-23-2008, 05:42 AM
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nason ful-thane questions?

Thanks Frank! I used that trick of yours, of putting the clear in the top coat on my running boards a while back and they look fantastic! I'am still learning the ins and outs of urethanes. The dupont man says I don't need to clear it and if I do to wait until it cures, does this sound right to you. I'am thinking more that if I do clear it I'd rather do it sooner than later. Pete!
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Old 03-23-2008, 04:28 PM
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I don't wait. As soon as it flashes, pow, clear coat it. That way you have a chemical bond. The two product mell together and you can't get any better bond than that.

If you wait, you will have to scuff the surface. That would be a mechanical bond.

So which bond seems better to you, two that basically melts together, or one that just sticks?

Frank
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Old 03-24-2008, 06:09 AM
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Be careful if useing metallics, if you clear to soon
the metallics can shift or float and give you problems.
I learned that the hard way.
I usually wait 3 hrs before clearing single stage urethane
for just that reason.
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Old 03-28-2008, 12:39 PM
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nason ful-thane questions?

Thanks guys! My test panels have set up a few days and in my opinion are screaming for clear.But I'am going to change my spray technique and try another panel.This is my first overall in urethane so I'am probably getting to fussy. These colors are very heavy metalics so when I shoot them like a old firemist laquer to prevent mottle it comes out a little dry and I'am always fighting the feeling that I want to pile it on, because it will run in a blink of an eye! I've read a few threads that give me the impression that you don't block singel stage metalics, but I don't have enough experience to say one way or the other. I was going to wait a few more days and start with 1500 and go up on the first test piece and see what I get before I go with the clear.Your probably sitting there asking yourself why I didn't just do bc/cc? I'am asking my self the same thing at this point and the answer is of course price. I figured at my level of knowledge with urethanes it would be better to make the mistakes with 400$ rather than 1200$ worth of paint. What I have so far is good,but can be better. To "work it" or "clear it" is the next question? For a cheap paint the color and coverage is great and after a couple days there is almost zero shrinkage which is a big plus! However I'am not doing an as per ( Nason ) "required sealer coat" for a few reasons I think are good ( Please corect me if you think I'am wrong ). First I've got a good uniform coat of nason 421-19 2k primer-surfacer over epoxy "well cured". Second I've heard and read so many opinons on sealers I don't know which end is up! even the guys at the paint store have different opinions on what the sealers are made of and what,where and when to use them! One thinks they are magic potions for which no subsitute will do, and the other one thinks they are over priced watered down versions of primer. Third at this point I don't want anything extra to trip me up. What do you think? Thanks Pete
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:07 PM
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I always seal with either Velva Seal or Nason Ful-Seal. The one time I didn't, I had problems.
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:22 PM
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Nason ful-thane questions

Cyclops what kind of problems?
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Old 03-28-2008, 07:00 PM
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Let's talk sealers. Nason Sealer is a good sealer, but!!!!

If you used any Epoxy Primer on the bare metal, you can use it as a sealer and save yourself the extra money of buying another gallon of paint (sealer).

Epoxy Primer reduced (thinned) makes a super excellent sealer. Being an Epoxy, it's two parts and cures. You can paint over it usually in an hour. (just follow the instructions on the label or P-Sheet).

NOW... WHY DO YOU WANT A SEALER?

If you block sanded and you have areas of metal, body filller, body icing or glaze, you have different types of substrates that you are about to put some expensive top coats on.

So with an Epoxy Sealer, you seal all these substrates under a layer of epoxy. You have a "new canvas" to paint on.
A level playing field that all ONE color.

It's a real bummer when you think you're done painting and you get he project out in the sun and you can see places that you didn't quite cover as you should have. You can see the light and dark places of the different substrates under the paint.

That's why you need a sealer.

Frank
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Old 03-28-2008, 09:23 PM
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Nason ful-thane questions?

I guess I won't worry about it Frank because we don't get sun light up here in new jersey,but we do get plenty of crappy painting weather I do see what your saying about sealers though. All my body work including a lot of lead in the windshield channel and upper cowel area is well buried in epoxy primer and then the whole truck got a overall in the epoxy so every thing should be locked down. Then after that I gave it a couple of coats of Nason 421-19 2k primer surfacer and blocked that down to what looks like a very nice paintable surface.Thanks Pete
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Old 03-28-2008, 09:55 PM
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Be careful clearing to soon because not only can you shift the metallics around but you could get something called solvent popping . By spraying the clear to soon you wont have given the paint enough time to get the solvents out and the clear will trap them . Just some thoughts, Tim
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