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Old 04-16-2004, 10:38 AM
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nason single satge urethane blending?

nason single satge urethane blending? i have a few small spots on my dash that i need to repaint. how do i gow about this? i dont want to repaint the enitire das if you know what i mean. the paint is fresh and hase not been buffed yet. can i just blend it in with the surronding paint?

thanx for the input!
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Old 04-16-2004, 11:10 AM
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Two ways

Two ways, lower air presser on gun and screw in fluid (adjust on masking paper slowly wet fog the area overlapping an inch or so each coat, when done first way is dump Paint and put some medium or fast urethane reducer in your gun and go over area with a medium coat and watch for one minute and if needs again do same thing till burnt in don't try to burn in all at once because the reducer can curdle on you.
Now the best way!
Go to your jobber and get a can of Upol-Fade out. Its in a spray can and as soon as your done spray paint spray one wet coat over whole area and forget it you won't even have to buff.

Do not try to blend in paint by thinning it each coat as you will get bleaching down the road.

If you have a scrap panel practice on it a couple of times.
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Old 04-16-2004, 02:04 PM
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2nd thought

Did not answer your whole question if the paint is fresh and it has not been outside clean with wax and grease remover and shoot.
If you have driven it take a cutting compound and by hand rub the panel than wax and grease remover. Being a modified enamel
conversion the paint will stick to itself for quit a while.
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Old 04-16-2004, 02:07 PM
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after further inspection of the car, i migh just re-shoot the whole thing, you say that since its fresh, that i can just cut it (scuff) and shoot right over it, and all will be fine?

if that is so i better get moving on it, how long do i have? the car is out side in the sun right now is that a bad thing?

let me know asap!

thanx!
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Old 04-16-2004, 02:16 PM
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Time is not an issue! Because this is not a true urethane but a cross linked enamel so 6 months after you paint it you could just
hand rub with cutting compound and the paint will stick. You will not need to scuff! Unless your shooting the whole panel than hit with a scotch britepad clean and shoot.

When you talk of reshoot I trust just panel?

If your talking the whole car and don't need to wetsand trash or runs you could just red or Gray scuff pad the whole thing and clean and shoot.

Last edited by BarryK; 04-16-2004 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 04-16-2004, 02:24 PM
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i have some orang peel i want to get rid of also. should i just block it down, and shoot the whole panel? whats a good cutting compound? this is my first car that i have shoot! i have done many industrial projects from lumber racks to big *** custom bumbers, but never a detalied project like this, so bear with me, i am a newbie!

in some places the paint layed down really nice, no orange peel at all, i layed it on thicker in those places aslo. but the plces that are thin have some peel.

sp pretty much it might be better if i just re-shoot the panels that i think need it, instead of just trying to fix get the trouble spots? i think my paint was a little to cold. it was about 65 out when i shot it. i live by the ocean on the west coast, so it was kind of a warm nigt if you can belive that.

thanx again for your help
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Old 04-16-2004, 02:28 PM
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Thats all you need to do is block it and try not to break thought the color! Hey why not re shoot its best way to learn.
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Old 04-16-2004, 03:14 PM
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thats what i keep telling my self. its nasaon and its cheap!

if i break through the color i will need a sealer coat again?

what the dire consequences?

aslo i can just shoot color on color correct? what should i block it out to 400 600. i have been blocking to 400 and it cuts the primer easly.

thanx for all your help!

Robbie!

this just went up about 2 min ago. lol technology is great. just shoot the paint last night, and its on the web already, LOL!

http://www.centralcoastvwclub.com/id239.htm

check it out!
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Old 04-16-2004, 05:23 PM
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400 would be as course as I would go using Nason over Nason
chances are you will not have a problem if you break through but you never know depends how warm the metal got today more so then the outside temp.
I would chance it and just shot the color over it.

One option you could do is where you break through is just shoot a medium coat over those spots and give it 20 minutes before doing the whole car.

Hey, feel good about this I just talked to a guy that had to go and buy another gallon of PPG base for $400 (red) By your picture your getting off cheap!! Love those Beatles/
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Old 04-16-2004, 05:43 PM
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thanx for all your help!

i guess i will sit on the idea. i have to finsh my fenders and hood, so i will get some more practice time under the gun. i am thinking about bringing my paint up a few degress in temeture, by letting the buckert it sit in luke warm water for a few minutes. thier is no instruciont on thining this stuff, and the guy at the paint store said that it can come out thick if it is cold out. can i do this? or will i screw with the chemicl makeup of the paint, and how will it react to the colder metal and fiberglass when sprayed on it, i emagine it will stick quickly and not run, should come out of the gun better also?

let me know, i have parts preped and ready to pint, cleaning them right now!

thanx

robbie!
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Old 04-16-2004, 06:12 PM
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Its not going to hurt to warm up that paint. Remember if your gun is does not spray it well you can use extra reducer sometimes a shot glass (2oz) per quart can make all the difference in world. Reducer will all evaporate anyway.
You got to love it when the guy selling you the stuff can't tell you how to reduce it! Makes you feel good when you see something on the shelf and he says it will work fine on that car you have been working on for 2 years non stop!

Last edited by BarryK; 04-16-2004 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 04-16-2004, 06:14 PM
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what kinda reducer for nasaons urethane, all i have with me is laquer and acetone. i am also using a wet-to-wet sealer primer before i apply! which also shows sighns of peel, could this be the main casue of the problem?

thanx for all your help!
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Old 04-16-2004, 06:36 PM
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You really want any Urethane reducer, Urethane reducer could be used in sealer even if it calls for thinner or enamel reducer but never the other way around.
I'm scared to say this BUT if that lacquer thinner is a paint grade not a gun wash such as DuPonts 3842 0r 3642 I forget the first numbers if the last two numbers are 08,42,62 you could get away with it.
If its a no name cheap gun cleaner don't try it.
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Old 04-16-2004, 06:42 PM
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i have a nason select thinner 481-16, acrylic lacquer thinner. will that work? or can i just add more paint and less of the activator. the activator is damn thick, like a syrup.

thanx again!
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Old 04-16-2004, 07:03 PM
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The 16 will work in small amounts- Don't cut back on the activator
mix exact and thin just a little at a time. what you can run into with the 16 will be some dieback but you can polish that.
If you must use it, use around a shot glass per mixed quart.

I found an MSDS on the 16. If you do paint this do not use more than the 2oz per quart or you could effect the long term life of the paint. I would wait get a medium grade urethane reducer tomorrow and reduce it 25% if you want and it won't hurt the life of the paint.

Last edited by BarryK; 04-16-2004 at 07:03 PM.
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