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Old 04-03-2009, 08:18 PM
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Nasson chassis black question

I am having trouble with the Nason chassis black. I had the sub frame of our 68 Camaro glass beaded, then I welded up most of the seams, finished it off with body filler, and primed it with a tan epoxy primer.

1. I have not liked the way it looked from the get go.

2. After a week of drying some of the paint wrinkled up. It looks like anywhere there was body filler the paint is wrinkling.

We are sanding it with 320 now and will go up to 600.

My question is can I put Dupont acrylic enamel over it with hardener?

Thanks

Ben Braun

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Old 04-03-2009, 08:40 PM
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Chassie Black is an alkyloid ENAMEL and "may" not play well with epoxies or even fillers.
I've shot gallons of it BUT it was on OEM frames or bare metal even wood.
Main "issue" is spraying it too thick and recoating later.
It likes thin and quick and "if" you hammered it and then came back over it again,It will react like ANY enamel paint and wrinkle it's butt off.
If you want to use it,Let what you have dry till you can sand it out,let it set in the sun a day or 2 then give it another couple of days to dry and try it again.
If you want to use another "paint", It's still the same gig but you may need to give it a longer cure time before recoating because if you don't,it will be the same thing all over again.
It's an ENAMEL paint. Keep this in mind as your pondering what to do.
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:43 PM
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Stop!!!!

The chassie black has no hardner? It sounds like you forgot something.Putting more material will only make it worse.Wash the old paint off down to the bondo with laquer thinner,if the bondo has to be redone ,so be it,weve all screwed that up and learned from it. I would use epoxy primer then urathane paint (semi-gloss) for the frame.
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Old 04-03-2009, 09:23 PM
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No hardner. It's an air dry enamel and it takes AWHILE to cure out but when dry,it's as hard as an 18 year old.
The filler likely sucked it up and "cooked" awhile and "if" it was recoated,rewet it and this is the result.
Currious as to "what" epoxy was used and it's window.
It "should have sealed it up but who knows.
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Old 04-05-2009, 09:12 AM
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tan epoxy

do you mean urathane primer or epoxy? what brand? was the primer dry completly befor the paint applied? I thinK B4 might be on to something about appling the enamel to thick,it does trap the solvents when the top skins over and it will soften the bondo.I've seen laquer primer eat down throu bondo to the metal before when applied to thick,what a mess its like putting a wet laquer rag on something and leaving it there.You can try this ,when the wrinkles dry try sanding them down with 220 or 320,spot prime lightly,try to re paint lightly with same stuff if it works shoot the whole frame if it dont, get some stripper out and start all over and chalk one up,I assume you want it right since you removed the subframe,so be prepared to redo,if your not happy now you never will be when its done,Nason urathane is pretty much foolproof I only say this because I havent screwed it up YET but it is a good value for the money and the same goes for SPI epoxy primer,these are the brands I use in my shop and I really like foolproof,untill I mess it up
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:54 PM
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nason black

In response. Thanks for the information.

The frame was glass beaded to remove the rust. It was a pretty bad frame to start with.

After the welding and bondo I coated it with Marhyde, ultimate 2k urethane primer surfacer.

I have not painted in 25 years. But this primer is better than anything that I used back then. The primer was finished out in 320 and 400.

I had to soda blast the frame to get the paint black off. It just rolled when we tried to sand it.

After soda blasting it was a bad mess. But I took 40 grit on a da the next day and the rest of the black came right off, the primer smoothed out along with the plastic. I still have a lot of hand sanding to do, then a coat or two of plastic to fix up the bad spots then primer again.

My plan is to put 2 coats of the primer on and let it set for a few hours. Then sand it smooth ending up with 320. The one quick thin coat of the top surfaces then 400 or maybe even 600.

Then I am spraying it with Centri with hardner. 2 to 3 coats should do it.

Does anyone see any issues that might arrive? I am open to suggestions.

Thanks for the help
Ben Braun
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:17 PM
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sounds good,urathane is tougher but the centari will work,dont forget the hardner.soda blasting leaves a coating that should be removed with warm moist towels not wet,there are many threads about soda blasting you should read them first
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