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nasson clear

3K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  jcclark 
#1 · (Edited)
I just finished a 61 olds for a guy he was happy but I not so much. I sprayed omni base with nasson 497 clear with slow activator. sanded with 1000 and re-cleared sanded again with 1000 and 1500 then buffed the crap out of it. Not happy with the shine or the depth in some areas. Been doing this for years but got away from painting several years ago. Now that I stated a retirement shop I need to paint again. Any ideas on how to get that nice wet look shine?
 

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#2 ·
swvalcon said:
I just finished a 61 olds for a guy he was happy but I not so much. I sprayed omni base with nasson 497 clear with slow activator. sanded with 1000 and re-cleared sanded again with 1000 and 1500 then buffed the crap out of it. Not happy with the shine or the depth in some areas. Been doing this for years but got away from painting several years ago. Now that I stated a retirement shop I need to paint again. Any ideas on how to get that nice wet look shine?
Use SPI clear.
Nason is Junk
 
#5 ·
da34guy said:
Use SPI clear.
Nason is Junk
we agree on that,Spi is all I use dont shy away from the price (around 200.00 for two sprayable gal)IMO its as good as glassurit for buffing and sprays like glass...but if you have any trouble just call the SPI hotline and the owner that made it will answer and help.I havent buffed these yet........................but omini base? :nono: :nono: :nono:
 

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#9 ·
da34guy- You have made 3 posts in this thread, all of them say the same thing.

Can you please elaborate on what differences there are between the Omni and SPI.

If Omni is "junk" please say what is so poor about it, otherwise, it looks to me like you are just peddling a favorite brand.

Later, mikey
 
#10 ·
hey 34 you sayin you like it better than chroma clear, glasurat and PPG or you just cheap like me? That barry's a heck of a guy ,he knows dang well he can get twice as much for it...even from me.its inexpensive...not cheap stuff but if it was it would still be a better deal than omini or nason.even for the used cars. not that theres anything wrong with those...this is just a better deal,....the best deal
 
#11 ·
da34guy said:
Sure have - Once and never again
SPI 4 me or nothin else.
Possibly a dealer for SPI??? :mwink:
I have sprayed Omni clear over DBC base and it came out very well. It came out glossy, layed out nice. I did not have to buff it to make it glossy. Just a few dirt specs needed to be fixed. Customer was satisfied.
 
#13 ·
mitmaks said:
Possibly a dealer for SPI??? :mwink:
I have sprayed Omni clear over DBC base and it came out very well. It came out glossy, layed out nice. I did not have to buff it to make it glossy. Just a few dirt specs needed to be fixed. Customer was satisfied.
# 1 - Not a dealer for any paint products.
# 2 - Been pullin the trigger for over 40 years and have shot it all
# 3 - Nothin wrong with PPG, Glausirt, Dupont
# 4 - Nason is like water, not a high solid, Omni the same
Takes 3 coats to + 1 of SPI
# 5 - Spi buffabilty is awsum
# 6 - Just didn't shoot 1 car a month for 40 years, but probably averaged 4- 5 a week in my collision shop
# 7- I guess 40 years experiance doesn't qualify me for an opnion of a superior product
 
#14 ·
deadbodyman said:
on my used cars I use nason base,have for years,used all kinds of top coats,but the worst was keystone clear eight of my used cars peeled.if you like that omini high solid clear like I did ,you 'd love this SPI its even cheaper.I even spray my woodworking projects with it
Keystone, now there's a really inferior product. I wouldn't use their products on a beater.
 
#15 ·
omni is a second line paint designed for body shop repairs which will never come back. there is a reason it is cheaper . the colors take more to cover . the clear takes way more mill thickness to achieve good protection and gloss. if not it will die back and fuzz out in no time. give it 30 days and try to buff it .
and just what product should we recommend ? one that works or one that you read about or watched a tv show about. unlike some of you we have to stand behind our work. one redo will suck the profit out of several jobs. it's simply not worth the risk.
 
#16 ·
I believe your on to something there Shine. This isn't the first thread where someone wasn't happy with their finish. Often enough it's the painter not the product.

I'm a strong believer in laying it on wet and let flow. I often scare the hell out of anyone watching because they think it's going to run.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I've been doing this for almost 40 yrs. started in 1971. Painted alot of cars in my day.Most back when the paint had lead in it. The olds I painted was just a driver so the owner was happy with it I just wasn't. I started a retirement shop out behind my house.My work has to come from word of mouth and if I'am not happy with it I don't feel the customer should be.My name is going on it so it has to be right. The reason we went with nasson was cost and I was told it was as good as Dupont clear.The brand name paints are just way out of line on cost. And its not because they have to charge that much they just know they have us by the short hairs so they do.I asked the paint rep. at work one day how come every time oil goes up paint goes up. But when the price of oil comes down paint does'nt come down. Answer,only goes up not down.I may try spi. clear on the next job I'am doing and see if I get the results I want.
 
#18 ·
cost of materials are high no doubt about it. but the difference in the cost of first line and second line products is minimal compared to a failure. if doing a low cost scuff and shoot it's fine to use them. but know what you are getting and the risk you take . you will not get any warranty relief when using them. warranty is not free . spi is a proven product with a good track record among many high end shops . the few on this board that have a problem with it either have not used it or know very little about paint chemistry or performance. their problem is personal with mr knives who owns and makes it. i have yet to talk to a professional who has used it and does not like it. cost of materials is not considered when doing top shelf work . performance is . if your doing collision work it really does not matter what you use. 2 coats and out the door is all that matters. it is after all a repair . choose your products wisely. to spend months getting a car ready and then use a low end paint is just not worth it. take a few weeks longer and use the good stuff . if a 100 bucks is going to break you then you are in the wrong hobby . many come here with no knowledge and just want sound advise . not some google expert or magazine reader who has little to no experience in the real world of refinishing. i will not call nason junk, it is just a low end product with many problems to overcome . problems a first timers will not know about or what to do. just like cheap equipment. give yourself every advantage you can.
 
#19 ·
I remember the old formulas myself. Some times we experienced painters are more critical of our own work than we need to be. I recently buffed a 57 ford that someone else had painted and knew there were going to be problems before I even started. Orange peel the texture of cottage cheese with blends on top of it. Fortunately, I had warned the customer of the difficulty I faced with it. I wasn’t impressed with the shine on this car myself although he was. He has scheduled this with me to redo to correct the body work done previously.
 
#20 ·
da34guy said:
# 7- I guess 40 years experiance doesn't qualify me for an opnion of a superior product
No it qualifies you fine, but just saying that you did something for 40 years means nothing to the reader here.

If you state WHY the product is inferior, then you shared what you know..THAT is the sole purpose of this forum.

If someone, anyone tells me a product is no good, I want to know why. Your 40 years of experience should make it easy for you to communicate that to us.

That's why folks come here. :)

Later, mikey
 
#21 ·
sometimes I feel like I'm trying to sell a few kinds of products that I've found To be the best bang for the buck,because I say it over and over.I've also been at this a while and its seldom that pros agree on the BEST product or BEST way....or anything for that matter............BUT....when they dooooooooo...............listen.
 
#23 · (Edited)
some loud mouth SOB that dont know sheet about ospho....LOL.just kidding,he does now...SPI is a smaller company located here in Ga. Barry Kives owns it.Its my understanding that he worked for one of those big boys you just mentioned,years ago ...his products are shipped all over the country,now hes shipping to other countries too,this clear is on some of the highest dollar cars at Barret Jacksons,It's hard to believe but its true....100.00 a gal clear on a million dollar car.Call this number ,see who answears the phone 404-307-9740 this is the hotline number all other questions they can answear ;) ;) PS, "da34" nason and omini both have a high solid clear now thats pretty darn good,..."really"...but still...they dont hold a candle to our stuff
 
#24 ·
The best looking clear I have ever used was the Nasson clear.
I did a hood full of graphics for my son years ago, and to this day it
has better clarity and gloss than any other clear I've used.
And I've used the other ones mentioned.
The downfall of Nasson clear is that it gets rock hard rather
quickly and makes buffing more difficult, but once done right,
it holds it better than the others.
If yours isn't clear or shiney enough, I bet you have a lot of
super small scratches that still need to be buffed out.
It's not the clear it's the buffing :pimp:
 
#25 ·
like buffing concrete huh jc . the euro clear from matrix is the same. i did the 56 big window and the 62 vette with it. hard as hell to buff and chipped really bad . the 62 had to be buffed 3 times and the last was a nightmare . while running my van shop they would bring me cases of clears to try . after a while i just passed on it. dupont was the only one who would back up their product .
 
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