[benchracer1]

What is the most effective brand of naval jelly? should I go to a regular auto paint store or is the local hardware store ok.........Steve

[shine]

ace hardware . they are all within a few % of being the same. just mist it with water while it works so it wont dry. then rinse thoroughly .

[deadbodyman]

I thought ALL acid products were the same and they all suck??????
Oh,and you would rather prime over the rust than use them.....
and what about the fact that most paint manufacturers say dont use them???
Well ???????? Your not changing your tune are ya??? If we start agreeing on the proper use of phosphoric acid we wouldn't have anything left to argue about any more......That would be a sad day indeed .

[shine]

i have used naval jelly since the 60's. i have no problem with phosphoric acid but it can not be used as you recommend. it must be neutralized correctly or it will cause adhesion problems. this is why paint mfgr do not like it.

even when used as a rust inhibitor in sheet metal work it must be reapplied and rinsed well before paint.

[deadbodyman]

Now we're getting somewhere....If all phos acid products have to be neutralized how is it that etching primer does not need to be neutralized????
Im not disagreeing with you about neutralizing jellies or straight acids all I'm saying is that the product I use does not ,its formulated that way..and its been around since the 40's I'm surprised you havent used it before, its in most of the good body shop supply stores....I've only been using it since the 80's but the man that showed me how to use it was a well respected resto man in Fla. thats used it since the 50's...He did a lot of work for museums.....Imagine someone telling you you dont mix your bondo correctly

[ChevyTruckGuy]

Naval jelly is Ok but I like using a product you can fine on line or at Home Depot The Must For Rust! Remover and inhibitor protects bare metal up to 12 months water based Biodegradable. Look in my project journal to see how well it works.

Craig

[Old Fool]

Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy

Naval jelly is Ok but I like using a product you can fine on line or at Home Depot The Must For Rust! Remover and inhibitor protects bare metal up to 12 months water based Biodegradable. Look in my project journal to see how well it works.

Craig

MSDS says it is < 20% phosphoric acid, the same thing Naval Jelly is, just in a liquid form instead of a gel form

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy

Naval jelly is Ok but I like using a product you can fine on line or at Home Depot The Must For Rust! Remover and inhibitor protects bare metal up to 12 months water based Biodegradable. Look in my project journal to see how well it works.

Craig

I'd bet you could even find Navel jelly at wall mart.

[Chevymon]

Originally Posted by shine

i have used naval jelly since the 60's. i have no problem with phosphoric acid but it can not be used as you recommend. it must be neutralized correctly or it will cause adhesion problems. this is why paint mfgr do not like it.

even when used as a rust inhibitor in sheet metal work it must be reapplied and rinsed well before paint.

Good info. I couldn't get along without acid, but I don't understand what the problem is with nuetralizing it, instead of sanding. I would much rather see that squicky clean metal.

[deadbodyman]

Mostly the main problem is people dont neutralize it properly or miss spots and have trouble with the adheasion of the primer,I just prefer a different product that doesnt need to be neutralized but Navel jelly would be my second choice its a lot more work though...

[Chevymon]

I saw your thread on sanding it, and the one I use is the same way, but I still like to get it off. I just think someone is going to read that you can sand it and be alright, but they forget the part about which type was sanded, and then they get themselves in trouble. I'm not really disagreeing with you, I just think the idea can be misread or parts forgotten.

[ChevyTruckGuy]

Originally Posted by Old Fool

MSDS says it is < 20% phosphoric acid, the same thing Naval Jelly is, just in a liquid form instead of a gel form

Yes sort of with out the mess! It works a heck of a lot Better than navel Jelly spray on wipe off on light rust. Soaking for a day on the heaver stuff it came right of with a light sanding with 220 wet and a few wire wheels! does not flash after and will stay that way tell you ready to paint! Which if you look in my project journal it was a real time saver! It getting the rust off in a very sort period of time. Also Mag wheel cleaner does the same thing except it will flash right a way if you don't dry off the parts.

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by Chevymon

I saw your thread on sanding it, and the one I use is the same way, but I still like to get it off. I just think someone is going to read that you can sand it and be alright, but they forget the part about which type was sanded, and then they get themselves in trouble. I'm not really disagreeing with you, I just think the idea can be misread or parts forgotten.

Your right about people following directions...A while back when I got my air bags I got a good chuckle,when I opened the box it said in big bold letters "Directions" "DO NOT OPEN" The owner of the company says he had too to get people to read them..They would install them totaly wrong and then blame the bags never admitting the posibility they could have screwed up...

[Chevymon]

Thats a good one---- curiosity wins everytime.