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Here is a suggestion to remove rust with electrolysis http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp I have seen pictures of folks cleaning whole frames in this manner. What are you trying to de rust? mikey
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my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular.. BE different....ACT normal. No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example |
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Big Dog, Navel jelly is just one of several preparations containing Phosphoric acid to dissolve and remove rust, kinda slow going but with Patience it will work. Navel jelly, and similar products, has been around for many years and is sold at hardware stores, auto parts and most building supplies. For light rusting this works really well but for heavy rust you need to remove as much as possible first then apply the product, give it ample time to work while keeping it from drying out along with wire brushing, this will usually need to be repeated several times. You may find that other methods will work better for your particular case but this stuff is so cheap and simple to use that it certainly deserves a try anyway.
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It may be simpler (and cheaper) to just treat the rust rather than try to desolve it. Check out products like POR 15 and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. These products work well from my experience.
George |
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It is far, FAR! better to remove the rust than to just cover it up! Removing rust is the proper way to do this because if you just cover it up it very well may come back to haunt you and anyway you look at it if you just cover the rust it is still there and you will aways have rusty parts!
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George |
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This has been , and will continue to be, argued both ways but covered up rust is just that covered up! It may be "neutralized", "converted" or "killed", whatever they want to call it, but it is still there and this is nothing more than a band-aid approach. I don't see how anyone can call a repair that leaves rust in place "restored", JMO on that one and others may see it differently but I do not want rust on my car in any form hidden, converted or otherwise and I think few people would disagree that removal is the best way. Even if you do manage to stop the rust from getting worse by using these "cover up" products the rust that was already there is still there and and you will STILL have a rusty car whether you can see the rust or not! This fellow asked about rust removal products which are for the purpose of PERMANENTLY dealing with the rust and will provide for a proper rust free repair and not something that will leave rust there only out of sight.
BTW, ever get a gun barrel wet and forget to dry it? Not very much protection there. |
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...and BTW back, I happen to be gun collector too, and bluing is reason your gun doesn't rust in your hand as we are speaking. Why do you think bluing is added to metal in the first place? It isn't for looks... George |
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Here's one example of naval jelly: Permatex Rust Remover
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...solver_Gel.htm It does work extremely well but is very slow, the hood and decklid on My Son's 70 Nova has some serious rust pitting and these panels were my first test using the naval jelly. I applied a thick coating of the stuff then covered it with thin plastic to keep it wet and allowed it to set overnight. The next day the jelly had turned black and I then used a red scotchbrite and scrubbed 75% of the rust loose then added more jelly and let it set for a few hours lightly misting it with water a few times to keep it wet and working. After a few more scubbings the rust had all loosened up and rinsed right off with water. The stuff works, it's cheap, but it's slow. |
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Well im not going to get into the debate with you guys on whos way is better,but,BIG DOG,there is a thread floating around here on this very same subject.I do not know how to post a link,but if you use the search button,and type in Randy Ferguson,you will find all the info you need.He did a indepth write up on this subject.Follow hit instructions to the letter and you will have no problems.If you use it the right way,I WILL WORK!!!!I have some pics of me doing the removal,before and after,and I can post them if you like.Hope that helps!
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Evil, This the one? To call this an informative article is an understatement, it is excellent info
secrets of surface rust removal revealed |
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Like oldred said, It's better to get rid of it one way or another instead of leaving it there. Cut it out, disslove it with phosphoric acid, or sand it out, but get rid of it if at all possible. Rust is called the cancer of steel. If you had a lump of cancer in your body, I bet you would prefer to have it removed rather than let it stay inside you, taking the chance that it will spread in the future. I've seen the ads saying that it completely "encapsalates" the rust, preventing it from spreading. But what if it isn't completely "encapsalated"? How does that movie line go? "What we have here is a failure to communicate?" In this case, what we have here is a pocket of rust in hibernation waiting to explode thru your paint. FYI hydrochloric acid can be used also, and it seems to be quicker. Check this thread out:rust remover
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Now about the guns. Bluing does not protect the metal of the gun if the gun is not maintained by cleaning and so on,period. If you disagree, I have a couple of guns I could show you. |
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| Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos |
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