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Need advice on lift purchase

9K views 17 replies 11 participants last post by  OneMoreTime 
#1 · (Edited)
I was going to hold off on the purchase of a lift until I built my new garage, but I've just been offered a Rotary SPO84 for $900, and I'm getting the urge to jump on it. It's in good shape, and I know Rotary is a good name, but at the same time it's an older lift and seems to lack some of the features of newer variable symmetry lifts. Maybe I'm being too picky for home use, which is why I'd like others' opinions. I've included a picture of the same model (but not the actual lift for sale). It would be used in a home garage with slightly higher than home garage usage frequency, on a variety of vehicle sizes. Thoughts?

Edit - Also, it 'only' has a 7000lb capacity, and I'm not sure of the max lift height - though I think it may only be 10'.

 
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#2 ·
two post lift

I have a two post lift. But I would not get another one. It takes too much time getting it set to lift a car. A four post is much better for the addverage guy I think. All you have to do is drive on it and lift. The short fall is if you are doing brakes. Then you have to let down on a support to lift the car off the rail you drive on. But think about it. I paid 900.00 for the one I have and I would give 1500. for a drive on any day. Thats how much trouble it is. Good luck
 
#3 ·
model a guy said:
I have a two post lift. But I would not get another one. It takes too much time getting it set to lift a car. A four post is much better for the addverage guy I think. All you have to do is drive on it and lift. The short fall is if you are doing brakes. Then you have to let down on a support to lift the car off the rail you drive on. But think about it. I paid 900.00 for the one I have and I would give 1500. for a drive on any day. Thats how much trouble it is. Good luck
four post drive on , brakes , all you need is the jack sliding tray or a tall jack stand with added bottle jack .
them landings make great places for your brakes to be laid out and tools are in handy reach .
place for a drop light to lay .
them two post are not good for motor pulls , if you pull motor out , Topsy turby , out of balance .
plus you can't do any serious yanking and prying .
you can get a a movable type and store cars under and over .
no anchor bolts pulling out , cracking that most likely what 4 inch thick concrete .
 
#4 ·
I would buy it. Its a Rotary, that is one of the best brands out there. I serviced and installed these for years when I was younger, and that was "the brand" to have. I looked for a long time for a Rotary before settling on a BenWil.

I don't mind putting a car on a two post. But it works better for what I do. I mostly do suspension, and have the wheels off, so a drive on wouldn't work. Space is also cramped, and a 4 post is just much too big to allow cars to get in and out of the back of the shop.
 
#5 ·
It's your decision to make....I purchased both a 2-post and 4-post lift, they both have there advantages, but I use the 2-post many times more then their other lift.
That said, I would not buy any 2-post lift that was rated under 10,000lbs. You may have other needs, and other personal safety standards, but I service my own truck and like to have a little leave way with regard to capacity. My Dodge weighs a little over 9ooolbs, and while it's only on the lift twice a year, it is a load of a truck. Besides the capacity, these lifts are very expensive to repair, and I am not a fan of the lift you pictured, I like the a-symmetrical lifts, that are off-set, once you have one and experience how hard it is to get in and out of some vehicles, you will learn to embrace this feature. $900.00 for a well worn lift isn't a bargain in my eye's, yes if you don't have one it may seem cheap enough, but lifts have a definite life span, that is why so many chains regularly replace them at 3-4 year intervals. The lifts, require cable replacements, pump repair and like any other piece of equipment, simple wear out. I would wait for my garage to be built, then get yourself a better, higher capacity new lift and enjoy it for many years.
 
#6 ·
I have a 2 post lift, a 12 year old 7500# Bendpak.
I can count on 2 hands the times I've wanted a 4 post instead. My next door neighbor has one, and the only time I use it is to set up ride height on coil over equipped cars.

For my first lift, if I was to choose one over the other I'd buy a 2 post.

You can do motor pulls and if you pay attention to setting your lift the car does not get unbalanced to the point of instability.
Rear end work and pulling motors is a big PITA with a 4 post, as the crossbeams and ramps are always in the way.

4 post lifts hog up a big piece of floor.



If you are worried about the anchors pulling out, brace the lift to the ceiling. That's what I did, and none of the anchors that are only in 6" of concrete are loose.

I would buy that used lift in a second. Looks like a good deal on a good brand to me.

Later, mikey
 
#7 ·
I have a 2 post lift & like it a lot. Unless you are working on large suv's or trucks like 3500 Dodge, F-250, F-350, etc, 7000lb capacity would work for you. I have a 10,000 lb Mohawk with a weight gauge & according to that the only vehicle I've had on it over 7000 lbs is my buddy's 1 ton Dodge diesel dually which is 7500 lbs, another buddy has an older suburban which is about 6400 which is well within what that Rotary will do. As far as the vehicle getting tippy when yanking on something, I have 2 - 2 ton underhoist stands which steady things right up even when jacking up a motor while the vehicle is in the air, they also come in handy to hold exhaust pipe in place while replacing part of it. A 4 post is better for storing vehicles but I use mine strictly for working on cars so the 2 post works for me.


And for those who say they don't work on short wheelbase vehicles :D

 
#8 ·
I care less what you buy, I posted my response to try and answer some question. But that said, I find it very hard to sit back and listen to others that suggest stupid acts like using the lift, 2 or 4-post in a manor that it was never designed for. I would never use a 2-post lift to pull an engine, if your to tight to spend on a engine lift then leave it for some that is way more qualified and reasonable. Also, the commits about installing a lift in a concert floor that is less then the manufacturers suggestion and then bracing the top of the lift to the ceiling, is plain stupidity at it's highest level.

What you do is your business, until it becomes so crazy that it can effect others unaware of your exploits. It your going to buy anything, install it as it should be installed. You guy's are so far out there I have to wonder how you got this far in life, I only hope it didn't include killing or Manning anyone else. I can't imagine using my lift on a normal 4" floor. Sorry this is just to extreme for me. I might have gone overboard when we built the shop, buy digging out that area, in a large 8 foot square area and making it 18" thick. BUT, I don't have to worry about killing anyone either. What difference does the quality of lift you buy, when you install it wrong.

I usually don't get up-set at the many idiot that tend to hang around some sites like this, but you are simply putting out very dangerous information, to those two simple to read there instructions. Do a search, there are plenty of home lifts that fail, and the number one reason is just as you may think, improper installations. A long time ago, I had the great pleasure is trying to save a young man that was pinned under a car. He was exceedingly stupid and never educated himself or maybe didn't care, about how to properly use jack stands and work underneath a car. Yes, there was nothing I could do for him, except watch as the weight of the car, slowly crushed him to death. The really sad part wa the horrified look in the face of the man' son and wife. I will never forget that day or the horrible sounds he made while he passed from this life to what lies beyond. I'm sure that kid will be marred for life.
 
#9 ·
Yknot said:
I usually don't get up-set at the many idiot that tend to hang around some sites like this, but you are simply putting out very dangerous information, to those two simple to read there instructions. Do a search, there are plenty of home lifts that fail, and the number one reason is just as you may think, improper installations. A long time ago, I had the great pleasure is trying to save a young man that was pinned under a car. He was exceedingly stupid and never educated himself or maybe didn't care, about how to properly use jack stands and work underneath a car. Yes, there was nothing I could do for him, except watch as the weight of the car, slowly crushed him to death. The really sad part wa the horrified look in the face of the man' son and wife. I will never forget that day or the horrible sounds he made while he passed from this life to what lies beyond. I'm sure that kid will be marred for life.

Ynot-you are full of it.

Watch a guy just lay there and die?
Not even look for a jack? Or a 4x4 to pry the car up? Or even try to lift the car? It is a well documented fact that a person of average strength can do amazing things when their husband or child is in danger.

And if you are so smart, and all knowing, why were you even in the company of that "exceedingly stupid" man? And Yknot were you not able to use your super human powers of premonition and show the guy how to do it right BEFORE he crushed himself.







I may be stupid in the eyes of a superior being like you, and yeah, everyone should follow the manufacturer's instructions, but I've had my lift in my shop for ten years, anchored to the floor and ceiling and used it to capacity many times. I have had to put heavy cars on it way out of balance as well, with no problems. I have used it many times to pull motors and transmissions, rear ends and have never treated a car on the lift gingerly. My lift does not budge. I check the bolts regularly, and not one has loosened.

I do this stuff for a living. Every day. Maybe if you had some real experience, you would not be so critical of other's suggestions.

Later, mikey
 
#10 · (Edited)
YNOT......You seem to be wanting to come across as some great big expert on everything automotive........I think it is time for you to back it up. I looked at your project journal, and while I am no expert at anything, it seems to me, that it is just a big copy/paste that you lifted off some other site......not one picture of your stuff or your supposed shop, like most of the members with project journals show.........To me, you seem to be just what you accuse most of us here as being in another thread...."internet mechanics".......

Time to toss up some proof........we want some pictures proving what you work on and where.......you need to prove somehow that the pics are actually yours......In other words, you have absolutely no credibility with us....and, BTW you are on the verge of losing your membership here, due to your obnoxious attitude toward other members.......Put up, or shut up.
 
#12 ·
yknot said:
Also, the commits about installing a lift in a concert floor that is less then the manufacturers suggestion and then bracing the top of the lift to the ceiling, is plain stupidity at it's highest level.
The instructions for my lift...






So not only did I exceed the specifications recommended by the manufacturer, but I added safety to my lift by making a brace from the top to the ceiling.

Show us a picture of the instruction book for your lift.


Later, ultra stupid mikey
 

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#13 ·
Back to post lifts..if I had one of those 2 post lifts i would fix myself some tall jackstands for those occasions when things may get tippy..Myself I have found that my long frame floor jack works for me as it will lift up to 30" which is plenty high for most of what I do..

Sam
 
#16 ·
yknot said:
I care less what you buy, I posted my response to try and answer some question. But that said, I find it very hard to sit back and listen to others that suggest stupid acts like using the lift, 2 or 4-post in a manor that it was never designed for. I would never use a 2-post lift to pull an engine, if your to tight to spend on a engine lift then leave it for some that is way more qualified and reasonable. Also, the commits about installing a lift in a concert floor that is less then the manufacturers suggestion and then bracing the top of the lift to the ceiling, is plain stupidity at it's highest level.

What you do is your business, until it becomes so crazy that it can effect others unaware of your exploits. It your going to buy anything, install it as it should be installed. You guy's are so far out there I have to wonder how you got this far in life, I only hope it didn't include killing or Manning anyone else. I can't imagine using my lift on a normal 4" floor. Sorry this is just to extreme for me. I might have gone overboard when we built the shop, buy digging out that area, in a large 8 foot square area and making it 18" thick. BUT, I don't have to worry about killing anyone either. What difference does the quality of lift you buy, when you install it wrong.

I usually don't get up-set at the many idiot that tend to hang around some sites like this, but you are simply putting out very dangerous information, to those two simple to read there instructions. Do a search, there are plenty of home lifts that fail, and the number one reason is just as you may think, improper installations. A long time ago, I had the great pleasure is trying to save a young man that was pinned under a car. He was exceedingly stupid and never educated himself or maybe didn't care, about how to properly use jack stands and work underneath a car. Yes, there was nothing I could do for him, except watch as the weight of the car, slowly crushed him to death. The really sad part wa the horrified look in the face of the man' son and wife. I will never forget that day or the horrible sounds he made while he passed from this life to what lies beyond. I'm sure that kid will be marred for life.
From a stability point of view it should be easy to see that a two post lift fixed properly bottom AND top is far more stable than one fixed bottom only no matter how thick the concrete. I couldn't help noticing you wrote how you had the "great pleasure" in trying to save a guy then watching him die!!

Have a few beers before writing that post did you?
 
#17 · (Edited)
You can twist it around how you won't . Who was there? The guy parked his car cross-ways on a little dirt drive-way. i suppose to gain access to the middle, but the sides couldn't have been more then a few inches higher then the road. My best friend and i had just arrived at a crash scene, and the call came in about a trapped individual. The crash was nothing special and we immediately turned around at went to the secen. It took maybe 4-5 minuets to get there. When we pulled up, the guy was traped under the car, the oil pan was crushing his jaw/throat area, the exhaust system was poking a hole in his chest and the front left spindle, rotor assy was squashing his lower stomach/grown area. The guy had been trapped for some 6-7 minuets by this time. When we got there the neighbor, a very large fellow was tiring to help hold the car up off the guy, and so was his wife. The guy jacked the car up and removed the wheel to work on something in the middle, but he put the jack on the hill side (rise) and the car rolled back a bit and the jack fell over, and was wedged in the mess. We were only there 20 seconds and the guy dies, there was nothing they could do, then had a log, they were tring to life with, but it didn't do anything. We were just in a truck, and ambulance and rescue truck were some 2-3 minuets behind us. What can you do? They had nothing and nether did we, the neighbor has there but that was it. Of-coarse they got him out when the rescue truck showed but that was really way to late and there wasn't anything that was going to bring him back. He was very badly crushed. This was years ago when I was stupid and thought I could save the world and help my fellow man by volunteering on the local Fire company. Sorry my story wasn't all fact filled from the start, but i didn't plan on bring up those memories in such detail, happy.


My point is there is nothing in the ceiling area, to attach a lift to that would do any good. Wake-up...The lift is designed to gain all the support it needs from the base plate. that an the recommended use of properly sized hardware, all of which has to be used in the recommended concrete. This is my last post here, I think an average man of average intelligence should be able to read these post and determine what is right and what is not.. Lets hope your at-least average

Also, I didn't see the lame post about proving anything to you.....I don't have to prove anything to you, I just started transferring some of my pictures over to this site. If you would have the sense to look in my bio area, you would see the link to my site that also has a very extensive work-up of my two latest projects. One is a very high dollar 1933 Ford sedan, and the other a fun little project where we take a Flathead Ford and twin turbo-charge it and add some modern EFI, great project, and fun to work on. That shop you see, is in fact my new shop, and yes I just spent well over $200,000 on the building and the main equipment, and then rolled in another $400K in extra's, sorry you missed it.

Any other questions??

Oh, the Automotive Expert....No not an expert, I do build a lot of things, race cars and Hot Rods, but I've never been an expert. We do custom heads, and Build new Ford engines?? does that make me an expert?? I hope not, cause I was hoping to learn much more...
 
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