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Old 05-24-2013, 04:06 PM
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Need advice prying off holley metering blocks.

Hello guys I have a question and am seeking advice here from some of you experienced holley guys out there. I know how to build holleys but the problem I have had over the last week and costing me over a hundred dollars in metering blocks is getting crazy.

I always spray my metering block gaskets with silicone spray or wd40 before installing them so they come off easy when needing rebuild time or changing out jets etc. The problem I am having is with new carbs that have not been taken apart before or ran on an engine and I had a spare 600 holley I was going to try to see if I can get something working as I am having other issue with current one but problem I am having is I can get the bowls off no problem with a rubber mallet but the issue is the metering blocks being stuck on so tight I can't even get them to fall off taping it with a rubber mallet no matter how much I try to get it off.

First mistake I made was on a quick fuel carb was I tried to use a screwdriver and pry from the top like suggested in some rebuild books but all it did was bend my screw driver and gouge the brass plugs on the top. So tried to go from the side and broke the brass port tube so making it junk at this point I thought at least get it off so I used a small screwdriver and I lightly tapped it in and ended up totally destroying the metering block as it put a nice cut line through seal mark but luckley the tower was ok.

Now I got stuff for it. Been having issues with mine and I stumbled across a cheap deal on a 600 holley aluminum carb a few days ago and it was new and I wanted to check the metering block to compare idle feed restriction size and I could not for the life of me get this block off either and I did not want to mess it up like I did my last removal attempt so I searched and saw a picture of a guy rebuilding a holley 4150 carb in one of the mags and he used a metal paint scrapper or a putty knife whatever you want to call it and I gently stuck it on the side of the metering block and tower and very gently tapped it with a rubber mallet and got it in but dang it did not realize I cut the dowel locator tab off making the block junk.

My question is what do you do to get these dang things off without damaging the tower or block and getting it to come off with out having to resort to extreme measures? What is the safest and best way to get them sticking things off with out leaving marks on the blocks or towers.

Hope someone one out there has a suggestion as I don't know what else to do and when mine does wear out I will use one of these for a new one but need to be able to get them off with out damaging them. Thanks Eric
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32 View Post
Hello guys I have a question and am seeking advice here from some of you experienced holley guys out there. I know how to build holleys but the problem I have had over the last week and costing me over a hundred dollars in metering blocks is getting crazy.

I always spray my metering block gaskets with silicone spray or wd40 before installing them so they come off easy when needing rebuild time or changing out jets etc. The problem I am having is with new carbs that have not been taken apart before or ran on an engine and I had a spare 600 holley I was going to try to see if I can get something working as I am having other issue with current one but problem I am having is I can get the bowls off no problem with a rubber mallet but the issue is the metering blocks being stuck on so tight I can't even get them to fall off taping it with a rubber mallet no matter how much I try to get it off.

First mistake I made was on a quick fuel carb was I tried to use a screwdriver and pry from the top like suggested in some rebuild books but all it did was bend my screw driver and gouge the brass plugs on the top. So tried to go from the side and broke the brass port tube so making it junk at this point I thought at least get it off so I used a small screwdriver and I lightly tapped it in and ended up totally destroying the metering block as it put a nice cut line through seal mark but luckley the tower was ok.

Now I got stuff for it. Been having issues with mine and I stumbled across a cheap deal on a 600 holley aluminum carb a few days ago and it was new and I wanted to check the metering block to compare idle feed restriction size and I could not for the life of me get this block off either and I did not want to mess it up like I did my last removal attempt so I searched and saw a picture of a guy rebuilding a holley 4150 carb in one of the mags and he used a metal paint scrapper or a putty knife whatever you want to call it and I gently stuck it on the side of the metering block and tower and very gently tapped it with a rubber mallet and got it in but dang it did not realize I cut the dowel locator tab off making the block junk.

My question is what do you do to get these dang things off without damaging the tower or block and getting it to come off with out having to resort to extreme measures? What is the safest and best way to get them sticking things off with out leaving marks on the blocks or towers.

Hope someone one out there has a suggestion as I don't know what else to do and when mine does wear out I will use one of these for a new one but need to be able to get them off with out damaging them. Thanks Eric
Unfortunatly there is no substitute for gently applied brut power. Go with the thinest metal putty knife you can find, use a new one with fresh unbent edges. Then ease it in with soft hammer blows, you're trying to fail the gasket not gouge the metering block or body. A little WD40 in the gap seems to help. If you et an edge opened up to where a plastic putty knife can get in the gap this is much less likely to damage any of the metal surfaces.

First thing I do with a new Holley is take it apart and put the blue, no stick gaskets in there, 'cause if you don't those damn cheap things Holley uses will stick everything together like it's been Super Glued.

Bogie

Last edited by oldbogie; 05-24-2013 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:06 PM
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I agree with you there bogus. Holley puts the so called blue non stick gaskets but my gosh it's like there glued on like you said. I picked up a new putty knife set today and was told to use a dead blow hammer too. I always put silicone or we forty on them and when it goes time to take it apart they fall right off. I don't know how you guys did them back in the old days when they used the brown sticky gaskets. Thanks for tip that will help a bunch.
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:37 AM
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I slip a razor knife into the sides of the gasket gap, and work it down each edge. Once I've worked down each edge I slip a thin putty knife in as far as I can on each side. They usually pop loose after that.
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:06 PM
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Hey Thanks for the idea I never thought of razor blade. This will come in very handy.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:46 PM
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You can use a box cutter instead of a razor blade. Try to drop it in a bucket of boiling hot water let it soak for an hour or more and see if come apart.

Last edited by lg1969; 05-25-2013 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:03 PM
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hello lg1969 doesn't a box cutter have a razor blade in it? Everyone I have ever used was a razor blade in a handle. Anyways thanks for the tips I got some more from some other hotrodders that have ran into the same problem. I guess the old holley brown gaskets were even worse.
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:10 PM
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Box cutter or razor blade, both work fine. It's just better handle, that's all.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:43 AM
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Aah I got ya lg1969 thanks I did not think of the handle part. Sometime the simplest things escape us. Thanks guys
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