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Old 12-08-2003, 09:48 PM
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need advice, short block build up

I am at a point in my project (71 vw bug, semi pro-street) where I am looking ahead for a viable powerplant. I dont have "gold pennies" so this is not some wet dream; I am debating whether to rebuild a motor I have or start fresh. I have a 57' 283 (bored .060 over - 292 I think) with the factory forged crank, stock rods and domed pistons. Some rebuilt the motor before I got it, turned the crank .010 too. I had a friend come over and look at it, he said it is is good shape, probibly about 11.5 : 1 or more compression. He said I would need new rings and bearing and the bottom end looks good. He also suggested 305 heads to complement the 283 small displament. To me this motor seems to have a little to much compression for me, these pistons are serious, I want something more drivable and pump gas friendly. So I picked up my PAW catalog and started looking. I came across the Super Stock Piston Kits, with optional forged pistons. The kit included pistons, pins, rings, and bearings. I believe they were flat top 4 valve relief. This gets me thinking: Forged pistons, short strock small bore = mild turbo setup! I am quite serious about this. I am thinking of a single turbo setup blow through carb, at about 6 psi, nothing radical. For heads I was thinking of PAW repro 76 cc heads(1.94, 1.5 assembled for $500 pair) over the 305, since the 305 are a 58 cc and that would keep CR up. I have not looked at cams yet, need a short block first.
So my question is: will this kit from PAW result in a desent short block for a mild turbo setup? Will the 76cc heads work with the 283 and forced induction? Or should I scrap this and look for a different motor?

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Old 12-08-2003, 09:52 PM
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I'd like to see pictures of this SBC ina VW. I wouldn't turbo charge. If you need more power just get a shortblock with more cubes. With a car that light you could have more power than you need with a stock idle!
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Old 12-08-2003, 10:00 PM
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The simplest thing you can do to bring down the compression ratio is use a thicker head gasket.
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Old 12-08-2003, 10:02 PM
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thanks for the imput!

if I could figure out how to post pics I would.
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Old 12-08-2003, 10:13 PM
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Buffalo!!!!!! DITTO`s my friend! hehe I live in Orlando now!! Go SABS!!

As for the 283...I would not even bother. That`s me. It just sounds like more money. But do the math 1st.

The bone yards in Buffalo will give you a nice engine....and rust body. I have a pair of 305 heads if you need them.

The cheapest way to go is the small block 350. These engines will produce 9 second and c hange cars for $3000. No Bull****.
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bad Rat 414
The simplest thing you can do to bring down the compression ratio is use a thicker head gasket.
Never use a thicker head gasket to reduce compression.

Look at the 3rd paragraph down.
http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm
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Old 12-09-2003, 12:21 AM
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after reading through that fine link it seems as if you could use a cam with a later closing intake valve to decrease compression under 4500 rpm's.
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Old 12-09-2003, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lluciano77
Never use a thicker head gasket to reduce compression.

Look at the 3rd paragraph down.
http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm
I've been building Big Block Chevrolets for 20 years and NEVER had a problem with useing a thicker head gasket, when needed. If you have a detonation problem you need to increase you octane rating and adjust the timing to correct the problem.
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Old 12-09-2003, 06:58 AM
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If a motor is built to take advantage of quench then running a thicker head gasket could just cause more detonation. One way to tell if a motor is built with a useful quench area, the ridge or carbon on the cylinder is going to be really high up. If it wasn't designed to take advantage of the quench, then there is no reason not to go to a thicker gasket.

As to the 283, it would work. But a junkyard 350 would work too, and the 283 is worth more to somebody than the 350.
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